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What Type Of Sc Pulley Do You Use?


KevShek
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I think it will be easier if I would just CNC another pulley, rather than taking down the measurement! :blush: I think it will cost about SGD$140, which is about 50 quid?

I will get it from my mate tomorrow evening, and maybe get it machined by next week.

Who else wants one? But I'm not sure how payment would be made :huh:

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EXCELLENT! you are a champ!

BUT, 0.1bar is woosey, stock internals will handle 0.8bar. S/C does something between 0.4-0.45bar of boost.

I'd want something like 0.2-0.25bar increase.

Can you do it?

I'll take 2, will paypal you the cash.

:)

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only problem is, i think my pulley will be totally different in size, dimension possibly even offset from the alt shaft. There is one way to find out tho, can you take a few quick measurements for me of your drive pulleys, ill do the same in a mo and draw it up on a jpeg.

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ok, comnpare my drive pulley to yours and see how much difference there is initially.

16724.jpg

(from left to right, crank belt on left, SC belt on right)

Blue Arrows - This is the measurement from the end of the pulley into the face inside the pulley where the nut bolts onto the surface. I took the measurement at one side as the nut would be in the way in the centre.

Green Arrows - This is the outter lip where its slightly taller than the ribs where the belts sit on.

Red Arrows - I managed to get the calipers around the whole pulley but this includes the width of the belts aswell, i cant remove the belt at this point to get an actual reading.

Pink Arrows - This again is the outter lip measurement of the inner pulley, cant get near the ribs.

Yellow Arrows - The width of each pulley, totaling approx 50mm.

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ok, comnpare my drive pulley to yours and see how much difference there is initially.

16724.jpg

(from left to right, crank belt on left, SC belt on right)

Blue Arrows - This is the measurement from the end of the pulley into the face inside the pulley where the nut bolts onto the surface. I took the measurement at one side as the nut would be in the way in the centre.

Green Arrows - This is the outter lip where its slightly taller than the ribs where the belts sit on.

Red Arrows - I managed to get the calipers around the whole pulley but this includes the width of the belts aswell, i cant remove the belt at this point to get an actual reading.

Pink Arrows - This again is the outter lip measurement of the inner pulley, cant get near the ribs.

Yellow Arrows - The width of each pulley, totaling approx 50mm.

Bummer... Your pulleys diff, you have a 5 groove poly v belt for the s/c, we have 4 groove on ours... :crybaby:

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ive just noticed on that picture of those 2 pulleys, does your nut on the alt shaft sit on the surface? or like mine which sits inside the pulley? mine goes in quite deep, well actually 44mm deep.

It sits inside. That pic is showing a smaller spacer on the pulley to space it away from the Alt a few mm

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Cool link Chi :)

I thought our s/c was made by Eaton, but we learn something everyday!

I can not find anything about the OGURA SUPERCHARGERs on the internet, but will keep searching. I'm sure with direct contact with the manufactuer of this blower we can find the solution!

Like i say if you get the pulley your friend has see if we can get more boost.

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well, its was a woman i spoke to..................... say no more!

why dont you give it a go?

i even asked if there were any other ogura automotive distributors in the UK?............ i think that one was too hard.

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Yeh, just called them too. Will send e-mail to Ogura direct see what we can find. She did say if we have a part no. then she can help. But to obtain a part no. we have to contact Ogura, providing of course they will be able to help with a pulley in the first place!

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Mobile Clutch/Brakes

Installation Procedures

Step-by-step Instructions

This installation assumes the most common form of mounting which is the clutch mounted to the pump. The pump type can be hydraulic, vacuum, water or a compressor. These mobile clutches consist of two assemblies: the field assembly and the rotor/armature assembly. Installation assumes that the clutch will be mounted to a mounting bracket for a pump or directly to the pump face.

Step 1

Attach the field (coil) to the mounting bracket (customer supplied) or pump face. Use the four 1/4" x 20 cap screws supplied. Tighten to 8lb. ft. per screw, taking care not to strip the heads. The flange should be square with the shaft of the pump within .003" TIR at a 6" diameter.

Step 2

Install the key (customer supplied) into the pump shaft keyway.

Step 3A

If taper bore or there are set screws on the clutch hub, skip to (3B). For a straight bore you first need to establish a clearance between the rotor and the field. A proper clearance of .695" +/- .010" is required between the end of the rotor hub (this assumes a standard hub) and the field mounting surface. Some models with straight bores have the hub aligned with the face of the mounting flange. In this case, no clearance is required. A step in the shaft or a spacer will be required to set this proper distance.

Step 3B

Slide the rotor/armature assembly onto the shaft and key, taking care to properly align both the shaft and hub keyways.

Step 4

Install and securely tighten the rotor with the center bolt and washer supplied with most models (Recommended torque: 20-30 ft. lbs.) (If clutch has a straight bore with set screws, access set screws through the slot in the back of the field. Push rotor assembly all the way on until it contacts the step in the shaft. If there is no step in the shaft, slide the rotor on until it contacts the field and then back off the rotor assembly approximately 0.1" and tighten down the two set screws.) After installing and tightening the center bolt, turn the pulley by hand to make sure there is no rubbing between the pulley portion and the field (coil). If contact is noticed, refer to Noisy Clutch section in the Troubleshooting Section.

Step 5

Connect the lead wire to the electric circuit. If clutch coil has diode, (only possible on two wire field) check lead wire polarity. In single wire coils, the field is grounded at the factory; if there is not a good ground returned through the field support, it is a good practice to attach a wire from the ground terminal on the field to the equipment to provide a sure ground. (Possible interference with proper grounding is a painted surface in the connection, possibly between the clutch and the bracket and/or the bracket and the engine.)

Step 6

Engage and disengage the clutch several times to ensure it is functioning properly. If full torque will be required from the pump immediately, the clutch should be properly burnished. (Burnishing involves cycling the clutch at a reduced speed not more than 4 times per minute so the surfaces can mate together. In most applications, 20-50 cycles are required for burnishing.)

step-by-step1.gif

Maybe that will help

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nah mine 4 groove, as the belts 4 rib.

i think ive have it sussed, if i undo the bolt, the front cover should extract out, this is the bit that is fixed to the shaft via a keyway, then the rest comes off in turn.

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Cool.

This essentially means both our pulleys are the same size.

I'd put money on it that our s/c are the same too, just yours has a longer shaft exstension.

How much boost can your stock internals handle?

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I used to have about 6.5 PSI of boost, but I managed to secure a HKS Super Header (for a mere 70 quid for a used one :driving: what a bargain!) and now the boost tends to drop to 5 psi before stablising out at 7.25 PSI at higher rpm :driving:

However, my Power FC is detecting knocking at 6,000+ rpm, especially at cooler nights.

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