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maddywork

Headlights Staying On

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try disconnecting your fuse box in the drivers side kick panel and drying it with a hair dryer first,

if that dont work its gotin further into your electrical system and shorted your anti-theft unit out that controls your lights.

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Mine started doing this tonight :(

had my screen replaced a few months back but this is the 1st time ive had the problem. Its been ok for the last few hours but i dont fancy leaving it overnight to wake up to a flat battery, so may do the relay trick.

I even warned the guy from autoglass about the problem, stating, 'Ive heard from lots of owners club members that its a common fault after the screen is replaced and that the wire for the auto lights needs to be sealed well'

he assured me that it would be and that all work was warrantied anyway. PAH!

Il be checking my fuse box tonight and making a call to Autoglass 2moro morning if i find damp in there.

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They were ok all night, but after a drive to work they wouldnt go off. Had to remove the relay. Checked the fuse box, theres no obivous signs of damp. Can any1 guide me as to which connector/loom is the autolights sensor?

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They were ok all night, but after a drive to work they wouldnt go off. Had to remove the relay. Checked the fuse box, theres no obivous signs of damp. Can any1 guide me as to which connector/loom is the autolights sensor?

it all goes through the theft control unit bolted behind the dash roughly behind the ignition ring

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FEEK iv just got a chip in the windscreen hope thay can fix it

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I went to Lexus Derby and they said it was the windscreen that is the problem. The service manager there wrote me an invoice for the necessary work and that it was the fault of the badly fitted windscreen. I then took the invoice to Autoglass, and after checking the seal I was very unhappy with the quality of work. I took some pictures and left. The next day i got a phone call from Autoglass saying they think there was nothing wrong with the screen but they will pay the bill, properly fitted windscreen, fuse box and an ECU £1510.00 Merry Christmas Autoglass! My brother in law used to be a windscreen fitter and tells me that on a screen as big as a Lexus there should ALWAYS be two fitters lifting the screen in to the car, and this could be the problem.

A VERY SPECAL THANKS TO FAYE AND EVERYONE A DERBY LEXUS!!!!

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Could anyone ID the likely places to find problems?

Anyone? Its going in to Lex in the new year if I cant figure it out over the xmas break!

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Could anyone ID the likely places to find problems?

Underdash.jpg

DriverKickWell.jpg

in the first pic its literally 1 of the 2 small black boxes (the one on the left )behind the fear fog and headlight washer buttons,(does your headlight washer button work)

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Thanks guys, that should help.

in the first pic its literally 1 of the 2 small black boxes (the one on the left )behind the fear fog and headlight washer buttons,(does your headlight washer button work)

Yes headlight washers work fine. y?

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Thanks guys, that should help.
in the first pic its literally 1 of the 2 small black boxes (the one on the left )behind the fear fog and headlight washer buttons,(does your headlight washer button work)

Yes headlight washers work fine. y?

cos mine didnt when i had the problem

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The wiring diagram for the auto light control is shown here

Also see this diagram of the driver's side junction box

OK reading every single post for this whole thread i'm still kinda lost. I have a very similar problem but has a few extra problems....

First I noticed that my car sounded different when i locked it.. You could usually hear the car locking almost twice when the button was pressed on the remote. All of a sudden it only made one clunking sound when it was locked. After this has started happening i've noticed that my cars wont go off if I leave them set to auto when the ignition is off. I have to manually swtich them to off for them to go off. Also, the car seems to lock itself after 30 seconds if the key is not in the ignition? It never used to do this before??

This is usually only an intermittent problem but recently seems to have stayed this way. When it does work though, everything works.. i.e. the car sounds different when it locks and when this happens I know my lights will go off when left on auto. So it seems they are all linked. I too did have my windscreen replaced but this problem happened at least a month before the replacement..

I have absolutely no idea when to start 'drying out' or cleaning contacts. I have looked in the footwell fuse box but am just lost when i open it. I have also looked in the fuse box in the engine bay but everything seems to be fine. No water I mean..

I took it to Lexus just to have a chat rather than getting them to actually look at it and they changed the relay for me but at the time of them changing ot over for a new one there wasnt an issue so i dont know whether it worked or not.

The 2 pics that loggyboy has taken are excellent so if someone can point out in the second picture where i should be looking i'll give it a go!

Many thanks All

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Could be the driver door switch. Especially with you saying about locking after 30 secs - it should only do that if a door hasn't been opened. If it doesn't recognise it then you will get this happening. Also explains the headlights staying on too is it doesn't know you've opened the door to get out.

Does the interior lamp come on when you get in? Have a play with the switch and see if the lamp works every time.

As well as that, as a test just lean over and open the front passenger door the next time the headlights stay on. If they go off you know its the drivers doorswitch.

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Could be the driver door switch. Especially with you saying about locking after 30 secs - it should only do that if a door hasn't been opened. If it doesn't recognise it then you will get this happening. Also explains the headlights staying on too is it doesn't know you've opened the door to get out.

Does the interior lamp come on when you get in? Have a play with the switch and see if the lamp works every time.

As well as that, as a test just lean over and open the front passenger door the next time the headlights stay on. If they go off you know its the drivers doorswitch.

Geoffers, I think you have nailed it mate.. The interior lamp doesnt come on at all.. I played with the switch and the interior lamp does work but just not when i open the door..

I now remember the lights going off when i have a passenger in the car when they open the passenger door. Problem is, i've just been in the car with the missus and she got out but the light didnt go off. Do you think i may need 2 door switches?

Another thing i noticed.. When i used to lock the doors with the remote, the indicators lights flashed 3 times. Now I have to press the lock button twice for them to flash. somethig crazy is going on.

Anyway... First things first, i'll change the door switch.. All i need now is to know where to find it :)

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The passenger door doesnt affect it as far as i know.

The switch is on the side of the door when you open it. You'll see it on the b pillar once the doors open.

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The passenger door doesnt affect it as far as i know.

The switch is on the side of the door when you open it. You'll see it on the b pillar once the doors open.

Excellent, whats the deal with repairing it? is it a replacement or can i take it out and give it a good clean?

thanks

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The passenger door doesnt affect it as far as i know.

The switch is on the side of the door when you open it. You'll see it on the b pillar once the doors open.

Excellent, whats the deal with repairing it? is it a replacement or can i take it out and give it a good clean?

thanks

Sorry - Stav maybe right - the passenger side affects the ability to roll up the windows before it is opened. I thought it was the lights too but I may be wrong. You can check if that side works the same way - the interior light should come on when the door is opened. (the the switch is in the right position of course). Only the rear light though don't forget. I used to hate the fact the front one never came on.

Either way, you know that it is the door switch now. As Stav says, B pillar, about third of the way up. Pull back the rubber cover and you will see a single screw. Unscrew it and pull out gently or the connector will pop off and stay in the pillar.

You can clean them up and grease them but they usually go again once they've started so you may need a new one (or pair).

I'm not sure what is happening with the alarm, but if the contact on the door is iffy, it will be confusing the system anyway. You could try swapping with the rear ones for now.

Keep us informed.

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The switch is on the side of the door when you open it. You'll see it on the b pillar once the doors open.

Excellent, whats the deal with repairing it? is it a replacement or can i take it out and give it a good clean?

/

It is a common problem caused by the contacts in the door switch oxydising. Carefully pull each switch affected out after undoing the screw. It is on a short wire, so make sure you do not pull the connector off. Generously squirt some electrical contact/switch cleaner into the guts of the switch to reach where the contacts are and work the switch a few times. Put it back together and the switch should then switch the interior light every time. If by some remote chance it doesn't, replace the switch. The switch cleaner should provide a permanent cure. WD-40 will do the trick, but not as well.

Also note: When you use the remote to lock the doors, it always needs a second press to set the deadlock & make it secure :tomato:

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Also note: When you use the remote to lock the doors, it always needs a second press to set the deadlock & make it secure :tomato:

Depend on the age of your car.

Earlier cars, the second press cause the indicators to flash 5 times and turns the interior sensor off. The first press locks the car completely.

Later car, then your right. two presses to deadlock.

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Geoffers + all others that helped!

You sorted it! The door switch turned out to be the casue of 99% of all my problems with the car! It couldnt switch the driver door swtich with one of the rear doors though as they are different shape switches. Nevertheless I have oredered a new one from Lexus for 12 quid! Its such a relief!

When i say the switch was the cause of 99% of my problems... The last little thing that been bothering me for ages and i cant solve it. THe middle dial which you can alternate the air to either come in from outside or circulate the iar inside only doesnt swtich from one to another when i press the button. Sometimes it works but recently more often than not, it doesnt. Any ideas?

Many thanks again for your help with the switch issue. I really appreciate it.

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Geoffers + all others that helped!

You sorted it! The door switch turned out to be the casue of 99% of all my problems with the car! It couldnt switch the driver door swtich with one of the rear doors though as they are different shape switches. Nevertheless I have oredered a new one from Lexus for 12 quid! Its such a relief!

When i say the switch was the cause of 99% of my problems... The last little thing that been bothering me for ages and i cant solve it. THe middle dial which you can alternate the air to either come in from outside or circulate the iar inside only doesnt swtich from one to another when i press the button. Sometimes it works but recently more often than not, it doesnt. Any ideas?

Many thanks again for your help with the switch issue. I really appreciate it.

Great stuff.

Do you have your fan control on auto? I think that dictates it but I can't quite remember.

If not, try lowering the temperature slightly next time it faults and see if it lets you then.

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