1g-fe And Modifications

[w481ggc]

just a thought - if i was a car/con-rod maker , i would only make them to do the job with a bit on the safe side to keep the cost of production down , after alot of reserch TTE released a super-charger kit that gives a 50 bhp increase , it might be that a lot of us are pushing our luck a bit , above 220 bhp could be where the problems might start depending of coarse on a lot of other factors - like i said - just a thought :)

[Adie]

just a thought - if i was a car/con-rod maker , i would only make them to do the job with a bit on the safe side to keep the cost of production down , after alot of reserch TTE released a super-charger kit that gives a 50 bhp increase , it might be that a lot of us are pushing our luck a bit , above 220 bhp could be where the problems might start depending of coarse on a lot of other factors - like i said - just a thought :)

But with an s/c fitted you only get just over or around the 200hp mark anyway. So with that theory you're saying over 200hp is pushing your luck...

With running a so called 'safe' 0.5 bar of boost your running around 230 - 250 hp. Depending on the turbo set up etc. Obviously the better set up the more hp you're going to get at 0.5 bar.

[w481ggc]

the thought not theory , above 220 bhp is way above the 150 bhp aprox that the rods were made for . i wouldnt like to guess what the limit of the rod are .

[Monster-Mat]

............remember all these engines have had different lives, also different methods and hardware is used, no 2 conversions are the same.

at the moment the only known safe figure is the figure that TTE have documented ....thats fact, all the others are "mules to the cause"

from day one....(and search/quote me) i have always said the conrods are the weakest link in the whole package, the bl;ock is bullet proof, but the head is pants for power as its a narrow valve head, but thats all there is to work with.....

[w481ggc]

i could have had my car set up for 230-250 bhp but am leaving it at about 210 bhp and waiting for forged bits befor pushing further just to play safe . :)

[Rob's Lexx]

are you able to just upgrade the conrods??? if so, wouldn't this eliminate the problem??

i have a feeling it isn't this simple though ;)

[Adie]

i could have had my car set up for 230-250 bhp but am leaving it at about 210 bhp and waiting for forged bits befor pushing further just to play safe . :)

Do you have a turbo too? I can't see how you are going to be putting out that much power with an s/c??? Or are you doing pulley upgrade?

[Rob's Lexx]

i could have had my car set up for 230-250 bhp but am leaving it at about 210 bhp and waiting for forged bits befor pushing further just to play safe . :)

Do you have a turbo too? I can't see how you are going to be putting out that much power with an s/c???

maybe thats at the flywheel??

[Adie]

i could have had my car set up for 230-250 bhp but am leaving it at about 210 bhp and waiting for forged bits befor pushing further just to play safe . :)

Do you have a turbo too? I can't see how you are going to be putting out that much power with an s/c???

maybe thats at the flywheel??

Thats what I mean too. I cant see how you going to get 230 - 250 bhp with an s/c

are you able to just upgrade the conrods??? if so, wouldn't this eliminate the problem??

i have a feeling it isn't this simple though ;)

Not worth it mate. If you're doing one then might aswell do the other

[Rob's Lexx]

i could have had my car set up for 230-250 bhp but am leaving it at about 210 bhp and waiting for forged bits befor pushing further just to play safe . :)

Do you have a turbo too? I can't see how you are going to be putting out that much power with an s/c???

maybe thats at the flywheel??

Thats what I mean too. I cant see how you going to get 230 - 250 bhp with an s/c

are you able to just upgrade the conrods??? if so, wouldn't this eliminate the problem??

i have a feeling it isn't this simple though ;)

Not worth it mate. If you're doing one then might aswell do the other

sorry mate, i thought u were referring to 210bhp.

what do you mean if doing one, may aswell do the other?? surely upgrading the conrods to something a little more durable would allow more boost/strain to be put on the engine??

[Adie]

If you're going to do the conrods then you might aswell upgrade the pistons too. No point in upgrading the conrods and then putting the standard pistons back in.

That could well be your next weakest point. But again its just theory no fact.

As I'm doing at the moment, whilst the engine is out you want to get as much work done as possible because you certainly don't want to pay to take the engine out again in the future

[Adie]

Right then guys, I'm about to throw a possible spanner in the works on the whole con rod weakest link issue..

The diagnosis on my whole engine blowing up / failure is that... by the way the con rod is twisted and broken and that there is a small bit of the piston gudgeon still in the top of it is that it was more than likely a PISTON FAILURE..

This is not a definate but if the rod had failed first by braking, the top of it would still be attached to the piston. Also by the way the rod was thrown about, putting many holes into the block etc it looks like the piston had gone first.. Also the markings on the top of the piston would also suggest this.

If this is true then it is being put down to the high EGT's (Exhaust Gas Temperature). NOT fuelling as some will no doubt like to say..

The EGTs run very high with a turbo fitted, de-cat etc anyway.. Especially with the design of turbo manifold I've got fitted. We knew that the EGT was high which is why the car was running less power as the ignition retard was lowered at higher revs. Also the EGTs did tend to creep up, especially in higher gears. Hence the EGT warning gauge etc...

Also with the extremely hot weather we were having at the time could have also been a factor as the car was feeling quite sluggish on the day and the days before the event..

Another point is that Spocks con rod blew because of a melted piston? jamming the rod which in turn blew??

SO..... Could it be that in fact the weakest point is actually the piston which when it fails breaks the con rod. Causing us to think that it was actually the con rod that failed first???

[anastasios]

On 7/27/2006 at 8:41 AM, RoadRash said:

If you ask me, I'd say the stock engine is reliable for 0.6bar.

In my opinion 0.7 is a bit risk, cause you can hit 0.1-0.2bar overboost very easy so I would call it a bit dangerous. :shutit:

Stay @ 0.5/0.6bar and everything is OK unless of doing a 24h racing on the Nürburg-Ring.

I also didn't drive carefully with my car and didn't have problems with the engine.

If the engine blows (conrod brake) below 0.6bar on street-using, then I would check the conrods for

steel-quality.

I'd say there must be a material defect. 😮

And if somebody notices an overboost, then get off the gas and check it out.

Check the wastegate, setup the boostcontroller correctly (duty cycle, rpm/boost setup and so on).

I had a pretty good BC setting then, the boost was straight raising at 2000-2500rpm, full boost @ 3000-3500rpm and had a maximum overboost of 0.05bar so I got a max boost of 0.65 which is not dangerous.

Watch out for a good boost setup (wastegate & BC) and you can prevent 99% of engine blow risk. 😉

The other 1% is a material-defect which we can't prevent.

Running my is200 for 3 years (before i will swap a 2jzgte) with a Greddy td06 20g.high boost 0,8-0,9 bar.Only changes......Two oem factory head gasket to reduse presure and arp bolts for the head and a greddy emanage cpu.....without a problem.....

[anastasios]

3 minutes ago, anastasios said:

Running my is200 for 3 years (before i will swap a 2jzgte) with a Greddy td06 20g.high boost 0,8-0,9 bar.Only changes......Two oem factory head gasket to reduse presure and arp bolts for the head and a greddy emanage cpu.....without a problem.....

i forgot the injectors and the fuel pump fo course.