Sign in to follow this  
Geoffers

Is200 Auto Mirror Closure

Recommended Posts

Just keeping those who are interested informed.

The auto mirror close on alarm set is now on test. Set the alarm on the keyfob and the mirrors close fine. Costs about £20 to make and about 30mins to fit. Everything is behind the driver side kickplate so you don't need to break into the door.

There are two small issues though. Due to the signal that activates them, there are other conditions that cause the mirrors to close :

1. If you press the door unlock switch in the door several times in succession, it triggers the mirrors to close. They open up again straight away if the key is in the ignition.

2. If you use the keyfob to open the boot, it triggers the mirrors. Again, if the key is in the ignition they open straight up again.

This is only because of the trigger I've had to use - I just cannot find an alarm trigger for them. For now, I've taken it off one of the central locking feeds.

These are only minor issues but irritating - at least it gets the unit on test though.

I've been doing it blindly but I should have the manual shortly, so as soon as I can find a suitable trigger it will be complete.

Just to be geeky - here is a small video of it working HERE

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

My mate has just done his so they close/open on ignition

and he is gonna make full closure from key fob,if all goes

well he can do mine :D but he dont know yet :lol:

Pete :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Superb news Geoffers.... will you be at Gaydon for us all to witness this wonderful invention.....? :o

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wanted it on keyfob because I usually walk away from the car thinking "Did I lock it then...." Now I just glance back and if the mirrors are closed I know I have!

Everybody - let me know - I can do them on ignition key removal if people want it. (That is actually a lot easier.)

Can't make Gaydon this time round. Bummer. (Family stuff - can't get out of it), If we do the mini meet around Chester in April I'll be there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have tryed this and the driver mirror stopped working within a month and it started playing up one in one out and that sort of thing new mirror was a few bob to.

There was a reason for the problem but i cant remember what it was the left mirror is fed from the right mirror or some thing like that and the control for the mirror is in the right side or some thing it was so long ago i cant remember what it was now.

On the SC the mirrors do not work without the ignition on but they do on the IS am right?

Hope you do it but test it for a long time with hevey use.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i have folding mirrors when i arm the alarm and total closure apart from sunroof but have worked out how to do that :D

mirrors fold whne armed and open when key is in ignition or when i remote start it ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On the IS, the power is also cut with the ignition off. This is why I've put a timer on to add power for about 5 secs. (slightly over the time really needed for the closure.) Also, on the IS, there should be no reason why the mirrors would get out of sync because they open and close with polarity. (Pos=close, Neg=open).

I've taken the main feed before the point it splits for the mirrors, emulating the voltages present when you operate the switch with the ignition on.

I was about to post my diagram but I'll hold off for now until I've tested it for longer. I've been hitting it quite a lot over the weekend so I'll just keep doing this for another few weeks.

Try and have a think what your problems were and the methods you used and post ASAP please. I'm grateful for any info/problems/constructive critisism on this.

swz-lexus - where did you connect to the mirrors on your closure? I've used the supply feeds in the footwell harness as it comes out of the door feed connector. (white/black stripe+silver spots & Grey/silver spots)

HERE

Oh, by the way - got rid of the first issue of them closing when the door lock switch is presssed a few times. It was just a trigger pulse getting picked up - I've changed a cap.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Everybody - let me know - I can do them on ignition key removal if people want it. (That is actually a lot easier.)

I'd much prefer it on the key fob. I find it irritating when the mirrors are closed

to look over my shoulder to see if any thing is coming before I get out :blink:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good point - that one annoys me too but I never thought about it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I cant remeber the problems i had but i was not powering the ignition up i was driving the motors on the mirros direct but in my mind im sure i remember that the pasenger was driven for the driver s or the other way round but if you are just liking on the pules wire and feeding the ignition then you will be ok does you alarm still work doing it this way (ie does it think the key in in the ignition) in not then you shuld be ok.

Chek to make sur the alarm still sounds etc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alarm still fine. The relay physically disconnects the leads that come from the distribution board so there is literally only power to the mirrors and no back feed into the vehicle system.

The switch is a mechanical changover so effectively all I'm doing is the changover before it hits the switch.

Here's a quick diagram of the relay when it is in the timed closure position. The relay then shuts off returning the connections to their original state. This also means that if the unit is switched off or ever fails, it's home position allows the mirrors to function normally. The connection to the alarm is through a diode and capacitor so there is no remf there either.

relay.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers. So far so good.

I've had it on since friday and absolutely hammered it.

Everything is fine so far.......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cheers. So far so good.

I've had it on since friday and absolutely hammered it.

Everything is fine so far.......

So when can we do it!!!!!! :yahoo:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, I'll post the full circuit diagram tonight.

Do it at your own risk this soon..... I've only had it on test for a few days. (I'm confident though)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ok, I'll post the full circuit diagram tonight.

Do it at your own risk this soon..... I've only had it on test for a few days. (I'm confident though)

I trust you mate........ :shifty:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds top fruit mate. Am waiting in baited breath!

Will the details also include parts info (what you need to buy). If so, and its general info, I don't mind going through finding Farnell (electronics supply place) number for it all.

Good thing about that is, anyone can do a credit card order from them and its free next day delivery. Cheaper than the likes of Maplin etc.

Anyway, well done for all you hard work and devotion. :flowers:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep - it's the full hit from start to finish (Including making the circuit too). I've done it on veroboard so everything is readily available.

I'm trying to source a monostable with trigger input. (Just to save people making up the circuit if unsure). Maplin used to do one but I can't find it. CPC do a couple but I'd have to buy them in to see what the trigger is as they don't go into much detail.

Kev Dood - do you know of any?

I'll put together everything later on an post the lot anyway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Alarm still fine. The relay physically disconnects the leads that come from the distribution board so there is literally only power to the mirrors and no back feed into the vehicle system.

The switch is a mechanical changover so effectively all I'm doing is the changover before it hits the switch.

Here's a quick diagram of the relay when it is in the timed closure position. The relay then shuts off returning the connections to their original state. This also means that if the unit is switched off or ever fails, it's home position allows the mirrors to function normally. The connection to the alarm is through a diode and capacitor so there is no remf there either.

relay.jpg

Well done Geoffers mate,

I've had this on my IS200 for about 6 weeks now but wasn't able to find an alarm trigger!

You mention that your using a diode and a capacitor. Would i be right in assuming that the capacitor "bumps-up" the power from the Green/Orange(alarm trigger) wire enough to trip the timer relay?

If so, what size/rating capacitor have you used???(this is the only bit I'm stuck on)

Thanks in advance...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thx mate

yes i did have to take out old alarm but i have a new one thats so much better, i now have anti hijacking, i just like to protect my pride and joy i dont want to wake up one morning and the car is gone, or being hijack at some traffic lights they can take the car but they aint going to get far....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Duncan - I'm assuming you just have the relay connected and need suitable power to control it on alarm switch-on? If you want to just power the relay, can you not take the feed from the power to the microwave sensor? You may need a transistor to boost the power up (assuming a positive feed that hasn't enough current) : -

boost.jpg

You can use any common transistor (eg. BC548,547,etc.)

I'm only assuming this is how you're doing it - correct me if I'm wrong.

I didn't really want to do it this way as it means power to the mirrors all the time the car is off and relies solely on the current sensing of the mirrors. I decided to put a timer on so it will completely cut any power to them when they have finished closing. The current drain on standby is next to nothing. (Not even the relay as it powers off and returns to it's normal state after 5secs.)

The capacitor is to provide an edge trigger for the timer. It will let current pass for about 5ms which is enough to start the timer and (more importantly) prevent a permanent connection to the alarm circuit. The pulse from the alarm is about 300ms.

The diode is only to stop any reverse current getting back into the alarm if the capacitor fails so I'm being a bit over cautious really.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Duncan - I'm assuming you just have the relay connected and need suitable power to control it on alarm switch-on? If you want to just power the relay, can you not take the feed from the power to the microwave sensor? You may need a transistor to boost the power up (assuming a positive feed that hasn't enough current) : -

boost.jpg

You can use any common transistor (eg. BC548,547,etc.)

I'm only assuming this is how you're doing it - correct me if I'm wrong.

I didn't really want to do it this way as it means power to the mirrors all the time the car is off and relies solely on the current sensing of the mirrors. I decided to put a timer on so it will completely cut any power to them when they have finished closing. The current drain on standby is next to nothing. (Not even the relay as it powers off and returns to it's normal state after 5secs.)

The capacitor is to provide an edge trigger for the timer. It will let current pass for about 5ms which is enough to start the timer and (more importantly) prevent a permanent connection to the alarm circuit. The pulse from the alarm is about 300ms.

The diode is only to stop any reverse current getting back into the alarm if the capacitor fails so I'm being a bit over cautious really.

Thanks for the info mate,

I am using a Sigma SIGAC05 timer to trigger two 5 pin relays.

It works great when I trigger the timer(by either touching it to an earth or feed, depending on which polarity i need to use),my problem is however, triggering the timer from the alarms Green/Orange wire(the one that supplies power to the microwave). It doesn't have enough current to switch it over!!!

Did you need to use a transistor?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome !!!!!!!!!!!

Waiting for the diagrams.

problem with mirrors closing when opening trunk with kefob SOLVED !!

I got a sportcross :hehe: (I can´t open trunk with keyfob)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this