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Geoffers

Is200 Auto Mirror Closure

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Hi Geoffers,

Thanks for your response. It is definitely a DP relay, it has 8 pins and they are just in slightly different places. The code is UQ89W, at least I think that is the one I bought.

Anyhow, I had a go at doing this last night, built all the timer, etc. connected it in, but no luck, I think I'm the first person on the post who hasn;t been able to do it!

:crybaby: The mirrors still work with the unit connected in, so that's one bonus, but i have got absolutely no idea where to start on finding out what's wrong with it!!! I've checked with a Multimeter that the unit has got power, but I can't tell whether I've wired all the parts right. What is the best way of me sorting this? (I think i'm asking a bit much, but hey, you never know!).

Thanks again in advance.

Edited by Administrator

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Thanks for the offer mate, but I'm in the business myself ;)

No, don't worry - you aren't the first with problems.

A few things you can check - could be useful for others : -

First thing is that it is getting 12v with the ignition off. Best place to check is +12v on pin 8 of IC1 and neg on pin 1 of IC1.

Check your diodes are in the correct way.

Take off the lead from the alarm that triggers the timer. Touch +12v with this lead - does the relay click? If not, you aren't getting an output from the circuit or the relay is stuffed. Put your meter across the coil of the relay and try and trigger it again - you should have roughly 12v across it. If you don't, put the -ve lead of your meter to earth and the +ve to pin 3 of the 555 timer. Trigger it again and you should see around 6-8v. If you are getting a signal here then it is either the transistor (TR1) or Resistor (R3). check these are connected ok with no bad joints. If you're sure the connections to the board are ok, measure the resistance of R3 (should be 3k3). Check the other connections on the transistor and if you they are ok too, then it's the transisitor itself. Make sure the diode on the relay is the correct way around as it will blow the transistor if not.

If you aren't getting a signal at pin 3, touch pin 2 with a negative lead (Be careful not to touch any of the other pins) - this should trigger the relay. If it does then check around TR2, R1, R2 and D2 for bad connections.

If you are getting an output to the relay and it doesn't click, check the voltage - it should be 11.5 or upwards. If it is, then the relay has a fault.

If the relay clicks, then you just have a wiring mismatch on the contacts. Double check them. The mirrors must go to the centre contacts. The pos and neg are reversed on the outer ones. (A few people have thought this was an error on the diagram).

I'll leave you with that for now, but let us know how you get on.

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!!! ArgGg! Looks scary!!!

Thanks for that geoffers, I'll have a go at that, see if i can figure out the problem. I did check that the unit was getting power without the ignition, so that is fine.

I'll let you know, thanks for getting back to me.

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Thanks for your response. It is definitely a DP relay, it has 8 pins and they are just in slightly different places. The code is UQ89W, at least I think that is the one I bought.

Hi Guys,

I'm still waiting for relay to arrive, however I thought I'd ring my local Maplins (Luton) ans quiz them on part code UQ89W. The guy I spoke to seem to know what he was talking about and said that this was just a change over relay and not double pole.

Can any of you electronics guru's confirm this from maplins site.

Thanks

Amit (atailor)

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Amit - it MUST be double pole. It is switching both the pos and neg so having 2 sets of poles is nesessary.

The part code Spencer posted is double pole. Can't quite work out the pin arrangment from the diagram they have so you'll have to meter that yourself. If it has 8 connections then it is double pole, so maybe the person at Maplins got it a bit wrong.

I can't stress this enough to everybody - The relay connections are the most important as these switch over the polarity. You can't incorporate put any protective diodes as the current needs to flow both ways.

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Got the UQ89W relay from maplins today.

Spencer did you manage to get yours working yet? Do you know which way the relay connects, is it the same as Geoff's diagram?

Just found the manufacturer website http://www.hkerelays.com/products.html Click on model HRS2(H). Is this is the same connections?

I'm probably going to finsh my circuit tomorrow. Also got hold of a tester and buld to test the unit first.

Let you guys know how I get on tomorrow.

Cheers,

Amit.

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Here you go chaps. The Wiring is different on this relay. Wire up as below. Spencer - this is probably your problem too mate.

18c.gif

Damn I'm good.

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Thanks for confirming that, it's as I thought, the relay does the same job, just has slightly different wiring pins. That's how I had mine done, so I must have a problem with the timer board i've made :lol: . Going to have a go through those points that geoffers kindly put up, see if I can get anywhere!

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Hi Guys,

To confirm, the relay works fine. I have checked by putting a 12v accross the bottom pins, and it closes the mirrors. However, my circuit seemed to be permenantly closing the relay, i.e. whenever i turned it on, the windows closed. I checked a few connections, and found one, the link between the two strips on the veroboard just before the R4, and fixed that, now it doesn't seem to close them at all! I have tried triggering the board from a 12v supply like you suggested geoffers, but nothing happens. So to confirm, it's definitely something wrong with my board (which in a way is good news, as I'm getting closer to the problem, slowly but surely!!! ).

I'll put another update later on today to let people now if I've done it or not!! LOL.

Thanks again guys.

p.s. amit, the relay is fine, have you managed to get your working yet?

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HI Spencer,

Got a bit distracted with this project. Went to the pub last night and got a bit canned, and to recover I went back to the pub today to have a few more beers. :hehe: Just taking advantage of the wicked weather. B)

Amit.

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Been watching this site for a while, have decide to order th parts and build the circuit.

Duncan I am interested in your soultion of Global opening / closing system. Any chance of getting some details from you on the overall system and how it is built and installed!

Geoff, big it up to you on this, hope that Toyota take notice of this site and push on with incorporating these ideas into the cars system.

Clive

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Waheyy!!!! I've cracked it! (With a little help from geoffers!). Right guys, just to let you know, the unti works perfectly! I now have auto closing mirrors. My unit was a bit of a bodge job, but after diagnosing it with help from geoffers, I managed to get it working, wahey!!

Geoffers, you da man.

Total closure coming next! LOL

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I'm writing from the US, and I was wondering how much the power folding mirrors cost there. Our cars don't come with them so I would like to install them on my car. Please email me with the price in Dollars please and any info on where I can order them. Thanks for your help.

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the auto closing mirrors is not an option that you can order from the dealer but you can make the kit yourself with parts from radio shack if you scroll up the page a bit you will see the circuit diagram etc and im sure geoff will help you with any questions that you may have - oh the cost of parts ( direct conversion from £ to $) is about $30.

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I think he is after folding mirrors not the auto closure. Don't know the cost of the mirrors but I would guess $200 per mirror + switch + wiring + mirror ecu

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