Fitting A Sub Need Amp Wiring Diagram

[redz_UK]

It worked absolutely fine when all I had was a Bass Amp, and just a single Sub connected to the rest of the

standard OE system. The audio feed was taken in parallel from the woofer feed wires

(inside the boot under the rear shelf).

That was enough for a for me for a while (but then the bug bites again), then I wanted more bass.

Bass increased, but then the front stage was overpowered by the bass... then etc etc etc and so it goes on.

BTW

Leighton I never said JL did fella. I love the way you try everytime to belittle me. It's funny mate :D

Lots of decent quality amps do have turn on protection. Not all, but lots :)

belittling you?? not at all, just correcting you as you would do anbody else!!

anyway, back on topic

I think you will find that is generally the cheaper amps that have this. sometime refered to as soft turnon. this just means circuite to elimnate power spikes on turn on.. if the system turns on after it may still 'thump'..

just making sure that i give the cirrcet way to wire in and not create problems down the line

[cameron is200sport]

It worked absolutely fine when all I had was a Bass Amp, and just a single Sub connected to the rest of the

standard OE system. The audio feed was taken in parallel from the woofer feed wires

(inside the boot under the rear shelf).

That was enough for a for me for a while (but then the bug bites again), then I wanted more bass.

Bass increased, but then the front stage was overpowered by the bass... then etc etc etc and so it goes on.

BTW

Leighton I never said JL did fella. I love the way you try everytime to belittle me. It's funny mate :D

Lots of decent quality amps do have turn on protection. Not all, but lots :)

belittling you?? not at all, just correcting you as you would do anbody else!!

anyway, back on topic

I think you will find that is generally the cheaper amps that have this. sometime refered to as soft turnon. this just means circuite to elimnate power spikes on turn on.. if the system turns on after it may still 'thump'..

just making sure that i give the cirrcet way to wire in and not create problems down the line

now now,lets be friends.as i take it and will have a proper go in the morning,i take a sub feed from the rear speaker,now is there two wires going to this on for the sub input and one for high mid etc,i could not see a problem if i just splice into the sub feed wire leaving it conected as it will be the same signal strenth going to the speaker as before so should not damage anything.will aslo sorce a remote feed for the amp and post all findings out once done,the only thing i could think is that if i wanted just bass from my sub i would disconect the sub wires going to the speakers in the shelf.

[DJ Wozza]

The tweeter wires are above the steel rear shelf (& under the speaker cover/parcel shelf), the visable wires

from the boot side are bass only on the SE or Sport models. I personally had mine running in this manner for

a few months before I started upgrading everything.

[cameron is200sport]

The tweeter wires are above the steel rear shelf (& under the speaker cover/parcel shelf), the visable wires

from the boot side are bass only on the SE or Sport models. I personally had mine running in this manner for

a few months before I started upgrading everything.

nice one thats all i needed to know,would have had this done ages ago if i had used my noodle,oh well least i can do it now.

[DJ Wozza]

After you have connected everything up, this may also help you.

If your amp has an adjustable crossover, it is worth experimenting with this until you get what you feel is the

best setting. I'd suggest an easy way to do this is to get someone to do it whilst you are in the drivers seat,

with small adjustments, then close the boot and see how it sounds. Anything from 50hz to 120Hz as a high

level ceiling should be fine, but trust your ears.

With regards to the setting the gain level, start with it at a low setting initially, then again slowly change it

(with your mate again), but remember you can over drive the Amp and send a clipped signal by having

the gain too high. Take your time, slightly too little bass is better than too much.

[cameron is200sport]

After you have connected everything up, this may also help you.

If your amp has an adjustable crossover, it is worth experimenting with this until you get what you feel is the

best setting. I'd suggest an easy way to do this is to get someone to do it whilst you are in the drivers seat,

with small adjustments, then close the boot and see how it sounds. Anything from 50hz to 120Hz as a high

level ceiling should be fine, but trust your ears.

With regards to the setting the gain level, start with it at a low setting initially, then again slowly change it

(with your mate again), but remember you can over drive the Amp and send a clipped signal by having

the gain too high. Take your time, slightly too little bass is better than too much.

yeah has a high pass filter or crossover,had them both off before,and the gain around half,but will be totaly diffrent with the lex unit had a sweet pioneer system in old car shame it went with the car oh well,as for the ear's 6years of doing lights and stage managment for live bands and dj's should help there, know when i get the thud from the bass i want and can get from the system before it goes pop lol.

[DJ Wozza]

nice one, let us know how you get on :)

[cameron is200sport]

nice one, let us know how you get on :)

will do wozza,got me sum nice d&b just to test also lol,will do till i get a new unit and i get overtime at work again god i hate the winter nights.

[cameron is200sport]

nice one, let us know how you get on :)

will do wozza,got me sum nice d&b just to test also lol,will do till i get a new unit and i get overtime at work again god i hate the winter nights.

all fitted and working fine just a bit of soldering to do but its in and sounding sweet,wish i had done this ages ago,just a wee note there is two black wires at the back of the headunit one is a switched live and one does not it does give a voltage of around 3.4 but drops,so no use,the other only gives a reading when head unit is on. the one you need is next to a blue and yellow wire not the red and brown side of the block.a other thing i found was that you can get to the boot, there is a hole for wires that runs along the passenger side and up the seat if you pull the seat away at the back you can see the hole and through to the boot.had a few problems to sort but was just a blowen fuse with the main feed for the amp but being in a shed for a year it was not surprising.anybody needing advise i would happy help out.

[redz_UK]

nice one, let us know how you get on :)

will do wozza,got me sum nice d&b just to test also lol,will do till i get a new unit and i get overtime at work again god i hate the winter nights.

all fitted and working fine just a bit of soldering to do but its in and sounding sweet,wish i had done this ages ago,just a wee note there is two black wires at the back of the headunit one is a switched live and one does not it does give a voltage of around 3.4 but drops,so no use,the other only gives a reading when head unit is on. .

did you use this one?? (in bold)

this is the switched/remote out by the sound of it.. when the HU is on it sends a power signal when off it cuts it.. that is ideally what you want the amp to see..