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My heater is getting 'warm' but only like luke warm. The previous owner has had the thermostat and the coolant replaced, but the problem remains. It was opted that there was an air lock somewhere....

Does this seem like an air lock? if yes, how do I test for this and how do I get rid of it?

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My heater is getting 'warm' but only like luke warm. The previous owner has had the thermostat and the coolant replaced, but the problem remains. It was opted that there was an air lock somewhere....

Does this seem like an air lock? if yes, how do I test for this and how do I get rid of it?

Did you turn up temperatue to high?

If so check the cabin temp sensor is clean...below the dash near your left knee approx,

it has a little grille over it

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My heater is getting 'warm' but only like luke warm. The previous owner has had the thermostat and the coolant replaced, but the problem remains. It was opted that there was an air lock somewhere....

Does this seem like an air lock? if yes, how do I test for this and how do I get rid of it?

Did you turn up temperatue to high?

If so check the cabin temp sensor is clean...below the dash near your left knee approx,

it has a little grille over it

Yep, temp all the way to hot.

I'll check the sensor in the morning.

Thanks :)

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Hi Ruud

I'm sure you have already checked this, but if not, check the coolant level in the Rad AND the top up reservoir. I had the same problem with another car (not an LS400) and it was just low coolant. It didn't look low in the reservoir so at first thought that was not the problem but when I looked in the rad, it was very low. Topped it up and roaster toaster again. I ran the engine on a steep hill (front high) to get rid of any air blocks. Don't know if the hill trick works, but saw it on a Toyota forum and thought it wouldn't hurt.

Stu

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My heater is getting 'warm' but only like luke warm. The previous owner has had the thermostat and the coolant replaced, but the problem remains. It was opted that there was an air lock somewhere....

Does this seem like an air lock? if yes, how do I test for this and how do I get rid of it?

Hi again Ruud.

There are 2 methods for removing a potential airlock

1)Use the exact fill method as described on the header tank or

2)Have it vacuum filled.

The correct fill method involves running the engine at around 2500 rpm whilst continuing to maintain the correct coolant level. Its a bit cumbersome because you need a helper or some other method of maintaing revs. If you can't find the method on the header tank, I will find it for you.

I had exactly the same problem with a heater that could at best be described as "tepid" even on "Max Hot." Eventually I had the car vacuum drained and refilled and its much better.

Check that the valve at the back of the engine - on the bulk head works correctly as the temp setting is moved from Max Cold to Max Hot. Its cable operated and if the valve is :tsktsk: or the cable is not fitted correctly, it wont open to let hot coolant through.

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thanks for the replies guys :)

I have checked and cleaned the temp sensor just now, but this made no difference.

Steve,

I'll check the valve in the morning. A bit too dark now ;)

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thanks for the replies guys :)

I have checked and cleaned the temp sensor just now, but this made no difference.

Steve,

I'll check the valve in the morning. A bit too dark now ;)

Here's the thread I started last year; it covers some of the issues.

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I couldn't wait and took a flash light out to check the valve. It is operating correctly and both hoses get about equally hot.

How much dod you pay for the vaccuum option, Steve?

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Forget what I said about fill procedure, this is the correct procedure

1. Following the procedure below, open the water valve of the heater:

*

1. Ignition Switch ON.

2. A/C Blower Motor ON.

3. Using A/C temperature control button, raise the temperature select to the highest reading.

4. Check that the lever of the water valve is in the full open (hot) position.

*This next section is if you were filling an empty system

1. Slowly add coolant to the water inlet until it is full. Use a good brand of ethylene glycol base coolant, mixed according to the manufacturer's specifications. Do not use concentrations below 50% or above 70% ethylene glycol/water mixture.

# Install a new gasket and tighten the plug of the water inlet housing, then torque the plug to 44 Nm (33 ft. lb).

*This is the part I was trying to describe

1. While the engine is idling for at least 10 minutes, add coolant (approx 4 liters, 4.1 quarts) up to the reservoir tank inlet to just below the overflow pipe. Securely tighten the reservoir tank cap.

2. Stop the engine after racing it for 5 minutes at 2,000 to 3,000 RPM.

3. After the coolant drops, remove the reservoir cap and add coolant up to the reservoir tank inlet to just below the overflow pipe. Securely tighten reservoir tank cap.

Slowly add coolant to the reservoir tank.

NOTE: The coolant level in the reservoir tank will drop after a while. Keep adding coolant until the water level no longer drops.

Capacity: 10.6 liters (11.2 quarts).

Once the level remains constantly correct, there is no air in the system.

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thanks for that Steve.

I couldn't wait and took a flash light out to check the valve. It is operating correctly and both hoses get about equally hot.

How much did you pay for the vaccuum option, Steve?

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thanks for that Steve.

I couldn't wait and took a flash light out to check the valve. It is operating correctly and both hoses get about equally hot.

How much did you pay for the vaccuum option, Steve?

I have to say, I would have gone out to have a look as well!!

Off hand I can't recall, she was due a change of coolant so I combined the whole procedure with a new thermostat but I'm guessing under a ton. Needless to say not at Lexus.

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thanks for that Steve.

I couldn't wait and took a flash light out to check the valve. It is operating correctly and both hoses get about equally hot.

How much did you pay for the vaccuum option, Steve?

I have to say, I would have gone out to have a look as well!!

Off hand I can't recall, she was due a change of coolant so I combined the whole procedure with a new thermostat but I'm guessing under a ton. Needless to say not at Lexus.

and a ton being £100? :unsure:

I'm from Holland and there a ton money is 100000 :)

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thanks for that Steve.

I couldn't wait and took a flash light out to check the valve. It is operating correctly and both hoses get about equally hot.

How much did you pay for the vaccuum option, Steve?

I have to say, I would have gone out to have a look as well!!

Off hand I can't recall, she was due a change of coolant so I combined the whole procedure with a new thermostat but I'm guessing under a ton. Needless to say not at Lexus.

and a ton being £100? :unsure:

I'm from Holland and there a ton money is 100000 :)

Around 116.00 Euros then

In that case it will be around four ponies!!!

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thanks for that Steve.

I couldn't wait and took a flash light out to check the valve. It is operating correctly and both hoses get about equally hot.

How much did you pay for the vaccuum option, Steve?

I have to say, I would have gone out to have a look as well!!

Off hand I can't recall, she was due a change of coolant so I combined the whole procedure with a new thermostat but I'm guessing under a ton. Needless to say not at Lexus.

and a ton being £100? :unsure:

I'm from Holland and there a ton money is 100000 :)

Around 116.00 Euros then

In that case it will be around four ponies!!!

Nah, we still have £££ up here in Scotland ;) I moved up here years ago.

four ponies and a bounty bar

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Ruud.

Is this the "new" silver LS you are talking about? with only 37k miles on the clock im wondering if you are having problems because it hasnt been used enough.

The reason i ask is that after seeing your low mileage LS i had it in mind to actively look out for one myself. The intention being to replace my 184k mile LS rather than put right all the little niggles it has. Things like rusted exhaust flanges, LCD teperature and clock screen, tired rear suspension, EGR pipe and whining PAS pump.

Im now wondering if a im better off repairing my well run in LS and have it LPGed.

A "newish" 93 LS would seem the ideal car to me otherwise.

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Ruud.

Is this the "new" silver LS you are talking about? with only 37k miles on the clock im wondering if you are having problems because it hasnt been used enough.

The reason i ask is that after seeing your low mileage LS i had it in mind to actively look out for one myself. The intention being to replace my 184k mile LS rather than put right all the little niggles it has. Things like rusted exhaust flanges, LCD teperature and clock screen, tired rear suspension, EGR pipe and whining PAS pump.

Im now wondering if a im better off repairing my well run in LS and have it LPGed.

A "newish" 93 LS would seem the ideal car to me otherwise.

Hi,

Yes, it's the new, low mileage one.

I don't think it's because she's not used enough. IIRC the previous owner told me it happened after the last coolant flush and change in July last year.

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I would have took it back to the garage that did the work at the time and demanded a brand new replacement car!!! :whistling:

AND a box of Bounty Bars!!!

And a few ponies :)

I've had a bit of a fiddle with the cooling sysytem today.

Squeezed some hoses, with the res. cap off, heater on full and running, hot engine. It seemed to have improved somewhat, but that could just be me :unsure:

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Hi,

I don't think it's because she's not used enough. IIRC the previous owner told me it happened after the last coolant flush and change in July last year.

Mine started after I had the a/c completely overhalled - rads out, all the dash out etc and off the road for a week. I'm convinced more than ever that your problem, Ruud, is the airlock problem.

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Hi,

I don't think it's because she's not used enough. IIRC the previous owner told me it happened after the last coolant flush and change in July last year.

Mine started after I had the a/c completely overhalled - rads out, all the dash out etc and off the road for a week. I'm convinced more than ever that your problem, Ruud, is the airlock problem.

I've read somewhere that a proper bleeding of the system is best when the car is raised at the front or parked up a slope. I'll try that next and see if it improves.

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