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2 posts in this topic
Drilled brake rotors for IS250/220d/250C
Just wanted to share one subtle "enhancement" I have recently installed on my IS250. This is purely cosmetic and really depends on personal taste. Some might like it, others hate it...
So my front rotors were up for changing - probably still more than 25mm, but dealer would mark them as amber (or even red) due to the pronounced lip. The decent update would have been getting IS350/GS350 brake calipers and rotors (which I still planning to do in my dreams), but for time being I wanted to upgrade that dull and rusty part with something more suitable looking.
I wanted for brakes to look more "performance" oriented so I was considering "drilled" design. Never liked Slotted/Dimpled brakes too much (again personal taste). The only rotors I have found for reasonable price were MTEC made p/n: MTEC1576 Front 296mm and MTEC1621 Rear 291mm (check if you rear ones are vented or not as vented ones are 310mm - p/n: MTEC1614). Additionally, I added protective coating "gold edition" ... anyway that comes to the taste... I knew that the face going to wear out when quickly, so it is really just nice detail around it... essentially replacing rust with some "gold" coating (other options were silver/grey and black).
http://www.mtecbrakes.com/mtec1576.html http://www.mtecbrakes.com/mtec1621.html http://www.mtecbrakes.com/special-edition-brake-disc-coating/gold-edition-2-discs.html I throw some Brembo low dust OE-equivalent pads on front and some Mintex cheap stuff on rear (in fact Mintex front pads were more expensive than Brembo).
The end result (as expected) is very minimal difference and in my opinion subtle.... I know I know ... I need to refurb my rims before taking any more pictures .. they are really poor right now.
Generally, I am happy with this tweak, but I would not recommend MTEC coatings. This is because I expected the coating to be more like "metal plating" - essentially some hard wearing coating which protects from rust, but does allow heat dissipation etc. In reality is some kind of heat resistant paint, which can be easily damaged when installing, secondly only outside of the discs is covered i.e. face and the back, but not inside vents. I do understand that covering vents in this coating would prevent rotors from cooling and therefore they are left naked, BUT the surface which rusts the most is exactly the inside of the vents... so protection vise this is not great design.
P.S. Dealer was not impressed with this and gave amber. In fact they might have been missed them but the re**rd who installed them threw away anti-squeal shims. I have noticed that some time after I have left the garage, but it was little too late. Next time when installing the pads I will make sure these are not missing. So lesson learnt - don't allow id**ts near your car or watch them carefully. I must admit I had no space to upgrade myself and I was foolish enough to allow the mechanic to fiddle with my car unsupervised. The replacement part is: 04945-30140 and it is £30-70. The relief ... so far there are at least no squeal.
P.P.S. Obviously, I wanted to spray calipers and dust shield (on the rear) matching colour. But I only have 2 options: either pay fortune to do them properly ~£150 per caliper (removed, prepared and professionally sprayed with heat resistant caliper paint) or do them for reasonable price ~£20 by same person who lost my anti-squeal shims (using spray can... which will bubble-up and burn after 100 miles). The third option - doing myself properly, unfortunately unavailable for now.
A/C light flashing and RPM jumping when ON
My car just developed interesting fault. Surely expensive to fix, but interesting in a way to investigate and nail the real cause.
So to start with - few days ago (like Tuesday this week) my A/C started making some noise ... like squeakyish/grinding noise, but it was intermittent (happened like 2-3 times altogether). I had a service coming up 2 days later so didn't really bothered to investigate, nor had an opportunity. Thought, "if there was something obvious Lexus service will pick it up" and if not I will take a look over weekend.
So Lexus Woodford did service an MOT, got all green except one amber. They said my drilled rotors are far too lavish, hence they put amber to accompany them (to clarify it is amber for "non-genuine front rotors and pads", they are Mintex drilled discs with Brembo OE-equivalent low dust pads - will post new thread in Modifications forum). The rest are all green including "Aircon / heating / ventilation" as below:
On my way home from the dealer, I have realised my windows are starting to steam-up and the air from A/C is getting hot... clicked on "Windows Defogging" and the realised that A/C light is flashing > stopped by traffic lights and clicked "Off" and "Windows Defogging" again to restart A/C. This resulted in the weirdest thing ever in any car I have owned > the engine RPM started jumping and when I have clicked on "Off" again the engine cut-off as well (see video below). You can notice A/C light is solid while RPM is jumping.
From under the bonnet it looks like compressor clutch tries to engage unsuccessfully or that compressor is actually completely stuck. Actually, I can see little sparks coming out of the pulley (see video below - sorry it is bit dirty ... Lexus panels does great job keeping all that dirt and rust inside). It only happens on idle, if I am cruising at speed then A/C light starts flashing straight away.
Now based on the fault description I have found that this fault can be caused by faulty compressor clutch coil. I do believe this is not the case, because faulty coil would result in flashing A/C light and as well would fail to engage compressor, but in my case it seems it is trying to engage compressor and after multiple failures gives up and starts flashing. If I drive at speed trying to turn A/C results in flashing A/C light straight away - no impact to RPM etc.
So my second guess would be that compressor itself is mechanically faulty/stuck and engaging clutch causes stress to the belt and RPM starts dropping. This would be sad news.. as replacing compressor would cost 10x more than just replacing coil.
Any other thoughts? As well wouldn't you expect Lexus dealer to pick up such faults? I am not joking .. it happened 3,5 miles away from dealer after “All Green verdict”...
Any help or opinion would be greatly appreciated, thanks
Grinding noise when cold
I have been enjoying my IS250 for the past 6ish months now. I am not sure if I have been picky but I could hear a slight grinding noise coming from engine when the car is gold. Once temperature is in the middle, its quiet. Wondering if this is normal?
I have been trying to run through a can of BG44k but haven't got a chance yet. Would it rectify the problem?
Hydrogen Decarb Service
I was planning to decarb my engine for a while now. Emissions is one thing - I am sure I will still be within limits, but engine sound and fuel economy is another thing. I do use Premium fuel every second time to prevent excessive built-up of carbon etc. but at least in my opinion neither fuel additives off-shelf, nor the ones in premium fuel are sufficient to really clean all gunk, especially in IS250 before injectors.
I know there are several companies offering "hydrogen decarb" service ~£100. I have hear very good opinions about it , however I am not sure how it is better than DIY cleaning by pumping steam via air inlet. There are million videos how it is done showing before and after results. Can somebody give any recommendation from personal experience?
Second thing, I am not sure what impact that can have if engine have large carbon deposits already... wouldn't it block something down the line e.g. catalyst converter?
Any opinions/suggestions would be greatly appreciated
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