Hi All, Newbie here!
I used to have a 2003 IS200 which I traded in for a Saab 9-3 Aero.
I miss my Lexus so I'm now looking for an IS250, I have heard that the trim levels can be quite confusing so does anyone have any tips/things to look out for? I have budgeted around £5k for one
I'm new to the forum and also the Lexus brand.
I've just recently bought a 2010 IS250 F Sport with 34k (now 35k) miles. It's a commuter car for work as I drive on the M25 and A2 everyday in Kent, so needed a nice auto for the daily 64 mile round trip. It's Argento Silver with a lot of options on it as I wanted one with the nav and memory seats, saw plenty without them too.
Only took pics this morning, needs a good wash, clay bar and wax:
Loved it so far, very smooth and comfortable. The suspension seems a bit stiffer now I'm living with it daily, but it's still very compliant. It's more the potholes or nasty ridges in the road that vibrate through the cabin. Just sorted the door unlocking last night as it wouldn't open the passenger door when I stopped or opened my door. Now the doors lock when starting the engine and shifting out of park and lock when shifting into park on stopping the engine, perfect! MPG was good on the way back from Stockport, sitting at around 40-43 mpg over 250 miles of mostly motorway. On a new tank of more realistic town and motorway, it's around 32-33 mpg which I think is very good considering the engine size and being an auto.
Things I love about the car - the looks, the seats, the 18 inch alloys, rear camera, Bluetooth streaming, electric seats and steering column, memory function, keyless entry and start.
A quick query while I have some attention, do people use the ECT power mode switch or leave it as standard? Only just read about it last night on this forum, elsewhere and also in the Lexus manual.
Any more hints and tips would be greatly appreciated!
The rear section of my exhaust has a blow,at the 'split' where the two rear pipes separate, i can pretty much see it, but neither the Holts gun gum, nor the Granville paste, seem to be able to stick for long enough. A few hours drive, and the dried paste has managed to push out and away.
I don't really want to spend £600 on a new rear section, surely there must be a simpler way to repair it? Even if it involves a 'bodge'?
So to my amazement my late 2000 (T3?) GS300 passed the MOT with its very aged and knackered exhaust. Two advisories, webbing of a seat belt and "oil leak pinion rear diff". So two questions if I may for your thoughts, experience and knowledge :)
1. Theres no Diff whine, and though wet, I'm not getting any drips. And to be honest I've not had a leaky diff on any car before. Is this common? Tough to fix? Indicative of anything major (other than the diff running dry of course)? (cars just coming up to 150k miles)
2. Exhausts. How much difference to the sound do the "resonators" and maybe third cat make internally? I don't want to lose back pressure anyway, but I see/read that people who have fitted stainless steel systems without the "resonators" on the middle/Y-pipe are getting a lot of drone inside. What needs to stay in some fashion to keep the internal noise level as close to stock as possible?
I ask because I still want to replace the system from the front to the back (not the manifold and 2 front cats though, they're okay). Standard systems used are £300+, third party new totals around £400 or so. Stainless steeel fitted new, cheapest quote so far is £390 (I've had loads of quotes). However, thats almost certainly without the resonators/mufflers on the Y pipe.
Last option and most likely one is some shiney tail pipes from the USA (those plus shipping works out cheaper than UK fitted ones). All I want is a healthy system in the middle (third cat/front pipe and middle Y-piece) and shiney non-OTT tail pipes that just give a little more external tune for the lovely 2JZ. Seeing as standard rear boxes are pushing on £200 a piece new, I can get a pair of stainless steel ones for about £280, or for £340'ish I can get a Manzo cat back (Y-piece and rear boxes) however the Y-piece has no "resonators" and tempting as it looks, I fear a terrible noise inside and possibly a drop in back pressure I'd rather not have.
Sorry for the waffle, but the whole picture might save some guess work for you :)
(Images of a standard system and a Manzo cat back for reference about what I am waffling on about)