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Thermostat Location On A Is 200 Se Auto


Cmayne
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Hi guys, I've just joined having bought a IS 200 SE Auto Year 2000 at auction and the engine temp takes ages to lift off Cold. So having read related posts here and elsewhere it could be related to a Thermostat stuck open or not present at all! I've already taken off a 'domed' looking cover (connected by 2 bolts with no gasket) to the water pump on the left hand side (not the alternator side) of the engine - connected to the lower hose from the rad. Though this did not have a thermostat within it. Is this where the Thermostat should be? Any help on this would be appreciated before I take off the alternator to get at the other possible area referred to in other posts!!!

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Great. Thanks for confirming Sparkystav. I already have the new thermostat and have drained the system. There is a loose gromit-like bit of metal through a hole on the edge of the stat - what is this for and should it go at the top or bottom when I put it in? Cheers.

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The "loose gromit-like piece of metal" will be the "Jiggle Valve" and should be placed at the top +/- 15

degrees.

When the stat is closed it allows the system to bleed when you refill the coolant.

There should be an O ring seal in the housing,make sure it's OK or replace if in doubt.

http://www.gforcepar...R/242210/1/1603

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Thanks Steve. There is an O ring included. Should there also be a gasket between the housing and the cover when bolting back? I ask because when I bolted back previously (to discover no stat) coolant did leak out when I tightened the bolts back - didn't want to over-tighten! Cheers.

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Sorry only just seen your question but you seem to have sorted the problem.

You should be able to get a decent radiator from motor factors or that well known internet auction site don't pay Lexus dealer prices.

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No worries. Yep, got a new one from a breakers on-line for £65. Courier was meant to deliver today, so will hopefully get to putting it in tomorrow. Any tips/steps to removing Rad? Cheers.

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remove engine under cover 16 x 10mm screws)

-drain engine coolant using the radiator drain valve

-remove the air cleaner inlet(10mm bolt to remove)

-remove stock airbox and disconnect MAF Sensor

-disconnect upper rad hose

-disconnect lower rad hose

-disconnect ECM 90 degree tubing from ECM and rad

-disconnect the wire for the electric cooling fan from clamp on electric fan

-disconnect 2 electric fan connectors

-disconnect the ECT switch(by lower rad hose, unscrew and screw into new rad)

-for A/T, disconnect 2 oil hoses from rad

-remove the two nuts and radiator top supports

-lift out the rad with cooling fan assembly attached

-disconnect the rad reservoir hose from the rad

-remove the 6 10mm bolts that hold fan assembly on rad

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New rad now in and the Temp gauge now reads normal at last - though I think this is also due to the Stat now in place. Just one issue when I went out for a test drive earlier - when in a queue of traffic, stop/start, the temp gauge gets close to the red zone. Is this normal? If not, what are the likely causes? Any pointers would be helpful. Cheers.

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Thanks for the pointers Rick. In a rush to get the new rad in, I forgot to put the fan switch in (which required a new one as the one of the two terminals had rusted away) - I wondered why I had a spare wire loom with a connector yesterday! The new one is in and fans working with engine temp settling at half way on the gauge now and no leaks. Cheers - Happy Christmas!

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