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If everything is fully warmed up (on warm up, the idle is pretty high), you may need to tinker witht he TPS (throttle position sensor). It is on the side of the throttle body but I can't specifically remember too much about it. Maybe two screws I think, and it can then be moved slightly. I'm sure there are some topics about it on here somewhere.

Code 24 (IAT) is the Intake Air Temp sensor, which is part of the MAF. Is it plugged in OK/Needs a clean? Maybe you could've been closer with a MAF problem than you thought, even with a slightly different issue.

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With regard to pic 2, I don't think anything should be connected to there, but there is a trim/cap missing off the end. Not sure if it seals the end up or not though, or just a dust cap type arrangement.

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Cheers.

Where is the AIT? Or what is it looking like? I could tinker with it if I know what to look for.

1500 rpm at iddle all properly hot is very high.. I really need to put it down.

Why is there 3 cables there anyway? This is way over engeneering and way too much complicated. The more you add, the more troubles there will be. Same with all those vaccum pipes in the intake. What the hell?

Cheers.

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Where is the AIT? Or what is it looking like? I could tinker with it if I know what to look for.

It is part of the MAF, and may well be visible down the MAF body. Fault code 24 will cause a default override of the faulty temp to be reported for the air temp.

1500 rpm at iddle all properly hot is very high.. I really need to put it down.

Yup, too high. From memory, it should be around 650'ish.

Why is there 3 cables there anyway?

Throttle cable, cruise control cable, gearbox (kickdown) cable

This is way over engeneering and way too much complicated. The more you add, the more troubles there will be.

It isn't an unusual amount of cables for the features (i.e. cruise control and auto box)

Same with all those vaccum pipes in the intake. What the hell?

The joys of environment friendliness in the main I guess. Having said that, Never had any problems with that side of things when I had mine (I had other issues - but not fuel/ignition related). At least with that age of GS, there are old technologies like plug leads and dizzy caps, you can twiddle with the timing and all sorts :)

With reference to your earlier post and spark plugs, it is a bit of a pain, but the throttle body does need to be removed to get all the plugs out. Not as bad as it sounds, and despite the quantity of vacuum pipes, it all goes back together pretty easily (be aware of the cooling system poipe connected to the underside of the throttle body though, probably the most awkward pipe of them all).

this label helps with the vacuum pipes (not euro model, but still helps with the majority)

pipes4.jpg

and this post too

http://www.lexusowne...showtopic=73070

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Ah, we are getting there with the O/D and 24 then. Then the mounts might not be the fault... I see what you mean about the AIT now, some bosch MAF on the MB has it like this too. Can we just buy it by itself? O n the MB I think its a new MAF needed... I got an olf one with the AIT on it, I see if I could swap it? Actually, while typing this I went to look for it and I actually have 3 AIT from the bosch MAF from my tinkering with the mb... :) Not sure if there is a proper way of putting them tho, it just look like a diode? Any idea how we can test them?

Thank you for that and also the reason why so many cables on the throttle :)

The vaccum pipes system is still a little too much for me.

Could I unplug the pipe for the EGR and it will stop clogging the intake or I need to do something else?

Tiger, did you had a chance to listen to the high pitch noise? That was at the bottom of my pictures.

Thank you and happy day :)

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Update. I am not happy :arrrggg-matey:

Got the maf out. The AIT is build in, no way I can chang it without a new MAF...Not going to spend 100 quid on a mnew maf, not knowing if this is the real cause.

The car might be Christine? A mind of its own,,,

There is an idle controler that I opened and lower the idle at about 700... Then after a spin, is back to 1500 on the dot... :devil:

What is going on there? Seems that the ECU think 1500 is good... Grrr....

The kick down also decided to give up the ghost and is no longet working for what ever reason.

The car is slow too... Very slow....The MB on veg at only 175 hp was faster as after the turbo kicked in it was flying... This car is not... You need to rev it high but by to go there take ages especially without kick down...

I think it did its purpose but will be back in the marked soon .

I am waiting on some proper lpg spark plug that I will fit, on the same time that will show me how badly sooted is the intake wth the egr blowing in it :sick: and I could look at any air leak as it seems this is what is happening as well... :nugget:

Dear Dear dear...

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Nemesis...

Got the proper LPG spark plug, fitted them, had to disturb a water pipe from the lpg, now its ****** water all over the engine :megaangry: , this after fitting it all back together of course... :arrrggg-matey:

Back to square one...

The idle is also at 1500+ and I had the engine light poping in early today :(

Is all this pointing toward the MAF?

Any idea on why the kick down is no longer working? Would that be MAF related, as the car feels slow? If there is no proper mixed, there is no power to make the kick down working?

Cheers.

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Me again :)

The arcon is not kicking in. This is why its not working.

I swap the relays under the hood and its working fine.

Then when make the aircon kick in? Is there a fuse for it?

I looked at all the fuses when I got the car and they were all good.

Also, it the EGR working by vaccum? There is a vaccum thingy at the manifold, in the middle, there the injectors are, is that it?

Is it close normally and only open once in a while or is it open all the time and only close once in a while.

Like if the engine is off, is the EGR open or close?

Thank you :)

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I thought the engine was warming up to temp? If the engine stalls when the maf is disconnected then it isn't being bypassed with any default modes, so maf may well be ok, that's not to say the IAT code isn't an issue though.

What are your concerns with the EGR? I'm not aware of any issues with the setup on the GS.

Is the OD lamp is still flashing? I would imagine the gearbox is in some kind of "limp" mode if it is, and probably why "enthusiastic" driving is being stopped by not kicking down.

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I thought the engine was warming up to temp? If the engine stalls when the maf is disconnected then it isn't being bypassed with any default modes, so maf may well be ok, that's not to say the IAT code isn't an issue though.

What are your concerns with the EGR? I'm not aware of any issues with the setup on the GS.

Is the OD lamp is still flashing? I would imagine the gearbox is in some kind of "limp" mode if it is, and probably why "enthusiastic" driving is being stopped by not kicking down.

I thought the engine was OK temperature wise, but it might be "tooo cool".

For me all was hot enough and not overheating...

Going to get a thermostat on later on.

I don't like the EGR, breathing exhaust fumes is no good for any engine. That's why :)

I wonder if the kickdown is not due to the engine thinking its "too cool", therefore stopping the "enthousiastic" driving?

The O/D is still flashing, but if this is the AIT then there is nothing I can do now. But I'll try something later :)

There was more then one flash, I thought it was just repeating it self?

I look at the flash soon too :)

To be continued.

Thank you Tiger :)

Any idea why the Aircon Clutch not kicking in? Do they seize? The compressor is turning freely, just not engaging.

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I thought the engine was OK temperature wise, but it might be "tooo cool".

For me all was hot enough and not overheating...

Going to get a thermostat on later on.

OK Fair enough. If it is stuck open, and not warming enough, it could be the issue. Hows the temp guage sitting?

I don't like the EGR, breathing exhaust fumes is no good for any engine. That's why :)

Again, fair enough. But as I said, not aware of any known issues around this on the GS, EGR issues in general seem more diesel related. No reason not to delete it I guess, but I would concetrate on the broken things first and then move on to the other stuff once things are running sweet.

I wonder if the kickdown is not due to the engine thinking its "too cool", therefore stopping the "enthousiastic" driving?

The O/D is still flashing, but if this is the AIT then there is nothing I can do now. But I'll try something later :)

When the O/D light flashes there is a transmission fault, not linked (directly anyway) to the check engine/engine managment light which is on due to the IAT code (and possibly others).

So I think a transmission fault is likely to be the reason the box is holding back.

There was more then one flash, I thought it was just repeating it self?

I look at the flash soon too :)

Ah, good and bad then. Could be more than one fault, but atleast we will know what they are.

Any idea why the Aircon Clutch not kicking in? Do they seize? The compressor is turning freely, just not engaging.

Does the a/c lamp on the climate control flash at all? I would expect the main reason the clutch will not engage is if there is no refridgerant in the system. I would expect it to protect itself to not try and compress something that isn't there to compress, if you see what I mean?

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Interesting about the A/C

Thank you :)

Back from putting a new thermostat, engine a little hotter but not that much, then it might not have been the problem...

I could have saved 20 quid...

I got the codeS, yep, with an S...

41 is the bugger me think for the iddle.

14

Ignition Signal

24

IAT Sensor Signal

31

Air Flow Meter Signal

41

TP Sensor Signal

14

Ignition Signal ( What is this one???)

I might have miss some but I thnk this is accurate.

Then seems the MAF and the TP are the main buggers here? Or the rest are bad too?

Thank you.

Happy weekend :)

Olivier

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That was the one I mentioned before, on the side of the throttle body and held in place by a couple of screws.You can slacken them slightly and twiddle to an extent. From what i understand, the ecu will relearn the position, it is more to do with the pot wearing out slightly in its normal rest position. Just have a little play.

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I need a TP sensor :(

I openend mine and the ceramic inside was broken... No wonder it was not working...

Anyone has a spare one?

The parts numbers would be:

Toyota shows the 89452-12050 superseded to the 89452-33010 and it is discontinued. The new numbers are 89452-22090 and 89452-32060

from:

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/performance-and-maintenance/308510-i-am-having-throttle-position-sensor-and-throttle-motor-problems.html

mine was the 89452-33010 but apparently all the abovre work, Then if anyone has any? Cheap?

Thnak you :)

Olivier

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Alive and Kicking!!!

Went to the nicest breaker in the world, in Gorebridge, got a TP sensor for a fiver!!!

Two sensors actually as James told me to keep the first one as a spare...

The first one wasn't matching the numbers on the previous post, it worked fine at iddle but as soon as I was putting the foot down it was sputtering sickly... I decided to come back as he had another Lexus, a V8 one, open the hood, took the cover out and there is was... The proper sensor... Woohoo!!!!

Now we are still a little high, maybe 850 rpm, and cannot lower it, but it moves and I am happy with it!

The car is back to itself, maybe a wee better too... And the kick down is back too....

Alive and kicking ;)

Thank you Tiger for all the imputs :)

I have just unplugged the EFI thingy then I will look at the code again.

I think the next step is the MAF and the window regulator and all will be good :)

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They w ere 2 different Lexus and no maf were the same plugs, then there wa sno point taking one out. I was ucky the V8 had the proper TP :yahoo:

Stil a little wobble on gas, but defenitly the car a lot better...I tinker a bit with the pressure screw and it got slightly better.

The last tank, 47 litres, I only did 100 miles... :blink:

When I got it it was a bit weird at iddle, then it went worse. I would have never thought this might be the problem...

All a lot better now. Even so that the rear wanted to be at the front few time... Humm...

The codes are now the same tho??? Odd...

I think the AIT is in fact the MAF as I took the AIT out, same, I mesure the resistance with the Bosch AIT and they were the same, I put a resistor instead of it to fool the MAF, same... O/D still blinking and I am thinking of doing what the previous owner did, the black tape :ban-em: as its buggering me now.. I guess it says AIT but really its MAF related.

14

Ignition Signal

24

IAT Sensor Signal

31

Air Flow Meter Signal

41

TP Sensor Signal

I still have the rear light warning, but cannot see any missing, is that commun as well? I would love to have a clear dash :P

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