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How do you know when a caliper is stuck what are the symptoms ?

Not always too noticeable esp if its the rears but for me, there was a squeaking from the brakes when the car has been stationary for a while and now that they have been replaced, the car free wheels better and I find the ride a little less crashy too. However it was only the dealer advising that they were seized and the pads were worn on the insides that prompted any action.

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I had the same, squeeky brakes when pulling off and didn't feel as confident in the brakes in general. My discs were also heavily corroded on the inside edge (which you obviously can't see without the wheel off).

Now though with the EBC RedStuff pads all round it stops on a penny! I thoroughly recommend them!

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When you put the dust covers back on, rub a little lube on the inside of them and when fitted more lube round the outside to help seal them from water ingress and not rely on the dust cover as it will perish and fail through age etc.

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When you put the dust covers back on, rub a little lube on the inside of them and when fitted more lube round the outside to help seal them from water ingress and not rely on the dust cover as it will perish and fail through age etc.

Have ordered some red rubber grease, will make sure it gets around those seals thanks.

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Oh my dust boots are well and truely covered! They are a little fiddly to re-fit once off, as I added grease to the slider, getting the boot located over that meant it was caked hehe!

Heres some more pics of the brake disassembly for those that aren't quite sure.

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Gently squeeze the piston back using a pair of pipe grips on the old brake pad if you haven't got the correct wind-back tool (like me). Make sure the piston is flush with the calliper body or you won't get the new pads in.

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Using a 19mm socket undo the top slider and pull it out completely.

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Then fold the calliper over like so. (note the lower slider pin without the dust boot!)

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The calliper should then slide off of the lower slider pin so you can tuck it out of the way to replace the disc (if needed). It also gives you nice access to the lower slider pin to enable it to be cleaned and thoroughly lubed.

Birds eye view

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The ominous lower dust boot (circa £4 from Lexus, it had come all the way from Belgium for me!)

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Oh and a picture of the hole that the lower slider fits into on the caliper body (with added grease)

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Hope that makes things a little clearer. The pads are easy to remove, just remember to put the calliper back on before replacing the pads as it's a whole lot easier :)

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  • 1 month later...

Great Guide... Mine squeeks a little every now and again even though its only done 43K AND the calipers were replaced about 10K ago... Surely this comes under inherant fault? I have heard people that have had them replaced about 5 times? My car is out of warrantly and i wont be able to get them replaced and as this is my first Lexus its really annoying that such a great (And expensive) car suffers from a fault that doesnt happen on even the cheapest of cars. Would it not also have been a good idea for Lexus to add regreasing the lower pin to the service points every year? It would stop this issue and renew faith in their service?

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  • 1 year later...

Hi Guys



So my 2007 GS450h has got two seized brake calipers on the rear which i need to replace (or fix) but im sure the dealership is more inclined to sell new parts, i was wondering are there any other calipers on the market which are better than the OE Lexus ones as from what i have read they don't seem to be that good?



Also car is March 2007 with 38800 miles but Lexus Belfast say its not covered under warranty, some people have said on the forum they got theirs replaced by Lexus what is the case here as Lexus Belfast say no ?


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Hi Guys

So my 2007 GS450h has got two seized brake calipers on the rear which i need to replace (or fix) but im sure the dealership is more inclined to sell new parts, i was wondering are there any other calipers on the market which are better than the OE Lexus ones as from what i have read they don't seem to be that good?

Also car is March 2007 with 38800 miles but Lexus Belfast say its not covered under warranty, some people have said on the forum they got theirs replaced by Lexus what is the case here as Lexus Belfast say no ?

Mine were replaced under warranty with no issues, is it the Lexus warranty you have or the dealer's own variant?

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Hi

for a normal mechanic its not a real problem to fix the issue.

Yes, sometimes its better to change the whole part but in most cases, its no problem to fix.

Especially if the problem isnt the caliper itself...the sliders can be easily cleaned and "renewed"

But I know what you mean-its not a "problem" of your dealer-ist a problem of all dealers worldwide!

Its hard to find a "real-mechanic-dealer" who not only change parts and knows how to fix/renew the parts on the car ;)

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  • 4 years later...
1 hour ago, simonman said:

excellent work, ill be doing mine very soon.  the outer pad wont go in. I assume this is because the silder hasn't moved over enough

If there is to much grease in the hole that the slider pin fits into you get a hydraulic lock. That will not let the caliper slide far enough to get the outer pad in. It does not take much grease to cause this so it is best to grease the pin, and not put any grease into the caliper hole.

John.

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  • 3 years later...
On 2/8/2013 at 2:58 PM, coneybiller said:

I bet you worked on my car last lol :tomato: !!

Do you work in Cheltenham?

I can imagine you're completely correct about the sliders, as when you think about it, if my rear pads have been replaced once before and they applied copper grease then, it means they've been touched every 3.5 years. That's every 3.5 years for that slider hole to become full of moisture! Still blame you techs :hehe:

Can you just do my brakes 😂 I'm not that far from you lol 

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  • 10 months later...

I can't believe nobody else has had this problem for 10 years! I had some issues with brake balance across the axles at the MOT, so I have been systematically removing, cleaning brake pads and discs. The rear lower caliper pin on the NS was devoid of any grease, and the one on the Rear OS is totally locked solid, blowtorch, big hammer etc not making it move. The discs and pads look like new, how could this happen? Anyway I read in the manual to get some lithium soap based grease, which I had to hunt down - I found Zinc Oxide Lithium soap grease, AKA marine white lithium grease for extreme corrosion applications. I put that on the N/S pin, but I noticed if you move the caliper on its float, the seal just unmounts from the caliper and sits on the pin. What a stupid design. The MK4 GS450h rear caliper look much better, two pins with double captive boots - is it worth getting a pair of these? What are my options now, given I will need at least one rear caliper and pin.

 

 

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Well, I managed to get the pin out, it was very stubborn.  I have ordered a new pin kit, so when they arrive I'll install them. MOT retest on Monday, lets hope the rear axle imbalance failure goes away.

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