Door Light And Interior Light

[Ruud]

Driver's side front door doesn't activate interior light when open, also the red light at bottom of door doesn't work. All other doors are fine.

I took the door card off to have a look, but it seems all wires go to a 'box of tricks' and not much to see apart from that.

Any ideas anyone?

[PEPE]

Steve2006, where are you?

[steve2006]

Is there no door switch mounted on the door frame on the series III, can't check now as shell has gone.

[steve2006]

Steve2006, where are you?

I'm here 2 minutes behind you:)

[Ruud]

Nope, unfortunately no door switch on the frame

[ambermarine]

There is a door switch on the frame of the mark 4,it is a proximity switch ,a black plastic cap that lines up when closed with a posidrive screw head ,this I believe opens a circuit when door is closed more reliable than the older pressure switches.

[Ruud]

Just had another look to be sure, but there is definitely no switch on the frame.

The only black thing on the frame I could find was a rubber grommet/doorstop just below the door catch.

Also, when I unlock doors with remote, then open that front door - it still locks itself after 30 seconds.

The door ajar light on the dash doesn't come on either - it works fine with all other doors.

Basically the car 'thinks' that the door is closed all the time.

[ambermarine]

I have gone back to the drawing board and after checking with the schematic drawing shown on my parts sourcer the switch is part number 84321-50070 and looks to be wire connected to the box you mentioned, the switch itself is mechanically fastened to the door lock mechanism and does not operate as I thought with a proximity sensor.

The switch cost about £15 so not a great cost but a beggar to get at.

[steve2006]

I have gone back to the drawing board and after checking with the schematic drawing shown on my parts sourcer the switch is part number 84321-50070 and looks to be wire connected to the box you mentioned, the switch itself is mechanically fastened to the door lock mechanism and does not operate as I thought with a proximity sensor.

The switch cost about £15 so not a great cost but a beggar to get at.

Ambermarine do you have the wiring colours for the wiring to the door lock, there are 6 wires going to the multiplug so 2 of these must be for the door open/closed switch.

[ambermarine]

Steve the answer is no as the schematic drawing only shows the switch with two wires coming out of it ,solution is to follow the wires from the switch.

[Ruud]

That involves cutting open the wire loom as they all join together at some point :(

[ambermarine]

Yes Rudy but it will probably require you to do that anyway as the new switch as its wires built in, so you will have to pare into the connection block .

As far as I can make out on the schematic the two wires exiting the switch are showing connectors on the ends of the wires.

[Ruud]

Thanks - I will have a look this afternoon and see what I can find.

[Ruud]

Had the door card off and tricky isn't really the word. I will attempt this again when I have more time. As far as I can see there are 3 different wire looms going towards the mechanism - I reckon 1 will go to the door handle, but without taking the whole lot apart it is impossible to determine where each loom goes.

Not an easy job!!

[steve2006]

I've got a complete driver's door lock in "the shed" there are 6 wires coming from it into a white multiplug, 2 of the wires are the same colour (yellow/red) which may be the door switch wiring.

Unfortunately I have a burst water supply pipe problem at the moment so busy cutting concrete away to get to it.

If I get the chance later I'll strip the lock and see what's what.

[Ruud]

Ohh no good bursted pipe - hope you get it sorted quick.

if you could check wires that would be great - thanks :)