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Caliper Slide Pin Overhaul - Plus All Models (i Think?)


Description

Caliper Slide Pin Overhaul

Disclaimer: As always, this is a guide only and I accept no responsibility for any damage or injury that maybe sustained through following these guidelines.

One thing that was really annoying me was when driving at low speeds, the slightest bump would give a rattling noise from the front of the car. The culprit being the worn/rusted slide pins allowing the caliper to move slightly and the metal on metal ,slide pin and caliper mount, clanking together.

Tools required (excluding wheel removal):

1. Large screwdriver or lever

2. 17mm open ended spanner

3. 14mm ring spanner

4. Copper grease

5. Hammer

6. 21mm socket

7. flat blade screwdriver or chisel.

OK, now down to the nitty gritty. Jack up vehicle and support on axle stands, please see this topic for wheel removal etc --> clicky

1. At this point it is easier for access if you turn the wheel, although this is not neccesary it made photographing easier too. You now need to undo and remove the bolts on the slide pins at the top and botton of the caliper. you will need a 14mm spanner on the bolt on the rear, and a 17mm open ended spanner to hold the slide pin to stop it turning. You may not need the 17mm spanner, it depends on how free the bolt unscrews. You don't want the rubber boots twisting too much so have the 17mm available just in case.

top.

undopintop.jpg

bottom

undopinbottom.jpg

2. You now need to push the pistons back slightly so that the calipers come off easier. I use a large screwdriver through the piston and into one of the disc vents. Lever towards yourself to push the pistons back slightly.

lever.jpg

3. Now remove the caliper

slideoff.jpg

4. Support the caliper (I use an axle stand).

support.jpg

for the rest of the overhaul, I have removed the caliper mount to make it easier to photograph

5. The caliper mount showing the dust boot. The slide pins just pull out. If the grease has hardened, they can be hard to budge. A bit of penetrating oil helps free them up a bit and aid removal.

pin1.jpg

6. We need to remove and renew the boot if it is damaged or split. I used an old chisel and a hammer to remove.

pin2.jpg

pin3.jpg

pin4.jpg

7. Now we need to put the new dust boot on. For this you need to thread the rubber boot into a 21mm socket. Make sure the whole of the rubber part is inside the socket and the socket is resting on the metal washer.

pin5.jpg

pin6.jpg

pin7.jpg

8. Now offer up the socket and boot to the caliper mount and using a hammer gently tap it in. Be careful that you don't catch the rubber boot between the socket and washer/caliper mount.

pin8.jpg

pin9.jpg

9. Now the new slide pins. One is referred to as the Main slide, the other as the sub. Not sure why but there you go, the "main" is the one with the indent around the tip. This will hold the bush, which is just a rubber ring in reality and is slipped over the "main" slide pin,

pin10.jpg

pin11.jpg

pin12.jpg

10. Now just apply lithium grease to the pin and slide it in.

pin13.jpg

Re-assembly is just the reverse of the removal. Slide pin bolt torque is 34 Nm (25 ft lbs).

Any questions, please shout.

Part numbers for fronts:

2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47715-30060 Pin, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust

Part numbers for rears:

2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47715-22080 Pin, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust


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6 Comments

Great walkthrough! I'm just about do do a brake upgrade so I'll probably change the slide pins while I'm at it.

Just to check though, where you've listed the quantities.

Do the two last part numbers (the bushes) come in pairs? Or do I need 4 of each?

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Just one comment... Lithium based grease is good for bearings but not good for lubricating sliding pins and rubber. There are special silicon based grease designed for this purpose, rubber friendly and high temperature resistant. Copper grease is suitable for metal to metal contacts between brake pads and callipers.

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On 3/6/2014 at 9:50 PM, Max_HR said:

Just one comment... Lithium based grease is good for bearings but not good for lubricating sliding pins and rubber. There are special silicon based grease designed for this purpose, rubber friendly and high temperature resistant. Copper grease is suitable for metal to metal contacts between brake pads and callipers.

Lithium soap grease is what Lexus state in the workshop manual, use something else if you wish.

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On 6/2/2012 at 0:05 AM, sprinter2012 said:

Great walkthrough! I'm just about do do a brake upgrade so I'll probably change the slide pins while I'm at it.

Just to check though, where you've listed the quantities.

Do the two last part numbers (the bushes) come in pairs? Or do I need 4 of each?

2 of each, only 1 slide pin on each side has the rubber bush

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