Recommended Posts

As my car has its tenth birthday in a week or so (although it has only done 55K miles), I reckoned it was time to do a bit of an interval service.

Apart from changing the oil and filter and doing the usual stuff, I tried to change the coolant. Now there are supposed to be two drain cocks for the engine block. The service manual is a bit vague about exactly where they are but I reckoned I'd see with the lower cover removed. Well, I'm damned if I can see anything like a drain ***** on either side of the block. Access to the left hand side is very restricted, but the right hand side is relatively clear. Has anyone actually found them and can direct me to exactly where they are, say in relation to the engine mounts? Anyway, I extracted about 3½ litres (a bit more than  a third of the total capacity) from the radiator drain and replaced it with fresh coolant. My plan now is to do that every year from now on - it will at least keep the coolant refreshed. What came out was perfectly clean and measured the correct density with my 'floating balls' hydrometer. I guess the corrosion inhibitors will be a bit depleted though.

I used Comma XStream G30 - it's the same spec as Toyota long life coolant and half the price. And as you're supposed to change the coolant every five years from now on I reckon it will be OK. We'll see!

I also changed the serpentine belt - that's an easy job, especially with the coolant header tank removed. Actually, the old belt looked good - no cracks or anything. But it is ten years old. New ones (Gates seem to be the only company making 7PK1550 (that's 7 ribs, single sided, 1550 mm long) belts), only cost about £16 on Ebay.

Just need to change the brake fluid and check the brake sliders now!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Was this its first coolant change ? So it does seem toyota coolant or any 5 year coolant can make it to 10 years.... in europe only due to low temp.

I had asked this before, is there any relation to water pump and coolant change ? I would have assumed coolant provides cooling, rust protection and lubrication to pump and engine... 

I wouldn't worry if you got 80% drain. More than enough.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I didn't bother with the engine block drains. I just drained the radiator *****, and got about 8 litres out, which for a 9.1 litre system, I though was acceptable.

 

As for the coolant, the OEM coolant is very expensive, but there is no equivalent available on the market. That said, I don't think there's that much harm in a generic coolant like a G30, which is likely going to be fine.

 

However, it is worth remembering that Japanese manufacturers all use the same formula these days, and it is totally different from anything designed for European or American cars. You can often find "Mazda FL22" coolant available for pennies, it's the same formulation that toyota use from the same OEM (CCI), but dyed green.

 

The coolant provides 3 functions: cooling (provided by the water in the coolant), protection against freezing (provided by ethylene glycol), protection against corrosion and water pump erosion (provided by the inhibitors). Water and ethylene glycol are the same in all coolants. 

 

Japanese OEMs use phosphate inhibitor because of enhanced protection of the water pump from erosion. The phosphate is boosted with organic acids. For environmental reasons, European OEMs use phosphate free, pure organic acid inhibitors. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jack - the first coolant change is scheduled at 10 years. Then every 5 years after that.

3½ litres is about 33½ of 9½ litres, not 80%!

Mark - how did you get 8 litres out? Both the hoses attached to the rad go to the thermostat housing at the top of the engine. Don't see how fluid gets from the depths of the block, or the heater matrix come to that, via the thermostat housing? Did you blow it, or dismantle the thermostat housing?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

John,

 

I have been doing the same as you but it seems in a different order. Front and rear discs, pads and free the sliders. Oil/filter/air cleaner/pollen filter. but I was remiss as I didn't remember that at 8 years old and 100,000 the coolant may well need a look so rather glad you posted.    EGR valve and manifold was, as always, clogged and needed a serious clean after just 10,000 miles !     Almost ready for the MOT in May.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Honestly now, I can't remember. I'm pretty sure I just drained the radiator, and it must of siphoned out - but I did park the car pointing downhill so maybe that helped.

 

I may have undone the thermostat hose as well, but I certainly didn't take the thermostat off.

 

I did spend ages looking for the block drains but couldn't find them, even with an inspection mirror.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmm..thanks....the attitude of the car must have quite a bit to do with it. I had mine up on ramps to get the bottom cover off, change the oil etc. Must remember another time to try and get it pointing down somehow, or at least level, to get more coolant out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎21‎/‎04‎/‎2016 at 7:38 PM, johnatg said:

As my car has its tenth birthday in a week or so (although it has only done 55K miles), I reckoned it was time to do a bit of an interval service.

Apart from changing the oil and filter and doing the usual stuff, I tried to change the coolant. Now there are supposed to be two drain cocks for the engine block. The service manual is a bit vague about exactly where they are but I reckoned I'd see with the lower cover removed. Well, I'm damned if I can see anything like a drain ***** on either side of the block. Access to the left hand side is very restricted, but the right hand side is relatively clear. Has anyone actually found them and can direct me to exactly where they are, say in relation to the engine mounts? Anyway, I extracted about 3½ litres (a bit more than  a third of the total capacity) from the radiator drain and replaced it with fresh coolant. My plan now is to do that every year from now on - it will at least keep the coolant refreshed. What came out was perfectly clean and measured the correct density with my 'floating balls' hydrometer. I guess the corrosion inhibitors will be a bit depleted though.

I used Comma XStream G30 - it's the same spec as Toyota long life coolant and half the price. And as you're supposed to change the coolant every five years from now on I reckon it will be OK. We'll see!

I also changed the serpentine belt - that's an easy job, especially with the coolant header tank removed. Actually, the old belt looked good - no cracks or anything. But it is ten years old. New ones (Gates seem to be the only company making 7PK1550 (that's 7 ribs, single sided, 1550 mm long) belts), only cost about £16 on Ebay.

Just need to change the brake fluid and check the brake sliders now!

John - I have just changed the oil in mine today - only had the time to do the oil and the filter before the wife was calling me in for tea so a good time to stop. Will finish the other service areas tomorrow - didn't manage to find whether the diff box drain and fill plugs incorporated a washer so may just take a flier and do this on spec - have a good range of washer sizes if required but think the sizes may reflect the same as the oil drain plug - anyway - while I was under the car undoing the oil filter cap I noticed what looks like a drain point for the radiator - The one I have found is under the cover for the oil filter cap (remove the cover - 3 screws) and it will be noticeable looking through the hole towards the front of the car - a few pictures below - one of the "tap" through the cover and one through a hole in the plastic shield (before removing the oil cap shielding cover)

IMAG1554.jpg

IMAG1556.jpg

IMAG1557.jpg

 

Hope this helps

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep - the radiator drain is easy! The challenge is to find the drain cocks for the block - allegedly one either side. As neither Mark nor I could find them, I'm beginning to wonder if they exist!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well you could use it. But if we can't find these alleged block drains you're going to find it very hard to remove all the existing coolant and the prep fluid which you have to use to remove all traces of old coolant. And all in all it will cost over £150 - pretty pointless really, unless you're starting with a completely dry, eg rebuilt, engine.

10 litres of Comma Xstream G30 ready mixed cost me about £35.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am wondering if the toyota coolant that came originally is water less. 

I want to top up with the correct one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The original Toyota long life pink coolant is diluted with water. It is sold only as ready mix, AFAIK. If you buy concentrate (eg Comma Xstream G30 which comes as either ready mix or concentrate), don't dilute it with tap water, especially in London. Use deionised water (supermarkets sell it as water for irons)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

COMMA G30 is silicate Free OAT based. 

Is it ok to just fill the reserviour with concentrate G30 ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also why should I buy it from halfords for 17ish pounds for 2 liter when i can get 1 liter for 7 pounds or 2 liter for 13ish pounds from ebay?

I just need to top up the reserviour.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Putting concentrate into the header tank won't do any harm - you want the mix of G30/water to be about 50:50 overall, but it's not critical. Water is better at cooling than the G30 though, so you don't want concentration in the engine to be much over 50%. There is quite a lot of interchange between the header tank and engine - a good slug of engine liquid is ejected into the header tank each time the engine is warmed up and sucked back in again when it cools.

If it says Comma G30 on the bottle it doesn't matter where you buy it from - Halfords need you to pay for their nice shiny stores and advertising!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 30/04/2016 at 8:22 PM, TimS320 said:

Do you need a special tool to remove the oil filter housing?

Yes a special tool is required, i bought a sealey one for about 12.00

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 30/04/2016 at 8:22 PM, TimS320 said:

Do you need a special tool to remove the oil filter housing?

VS7112.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now