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Hi All,

Apologies, I know this topic has been discussed widely. I have searched the forums and Google but still require clarification as some people are providing conflicting information.

I have a 2006 IS250 and I need oil.

Castrol Oil recommendation tool states:   Magnatec Stop-Start 5W-30  A5       and            Magnatec Stop-Start 5W-30 C3

Opie Oils recommendation tool states:      Magnatec Stop-Start 5W-30 C3

 

My forum searches bring back a range of recommendations because some people say you need Decos2 compliant oil (C3) whereas others recommend the A5.

The Lexus manual which I found online (http://drivers.lexus.com/t3Portal/document/om-s/OM53508U/pdf/OM53508U.pdf) states "SAE 5W-30 is the best choice for good fuel economy and good starting in cold weather. If SAE 5W-30 is not available, SAE 10W-30 may be used. However, it should be replaced with SAE 5W- 30 at the next oil change".

 

It doesn't tell me whether I need A5 or C3. Can anyone assist me in deciding between  Magnatec Stop-Start 5W-30  A5       and            Magnatec Stop-Start 5W-30 C3.

6gcVG

 

Thanks!

Oil - Copy.png

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Lexus don't specify - in general Japanese manufacturers haven't joined in this ridiculous oil spec variation game which is the province of European manufacturers. But the oil specialist sites such as Comma oil, Opie, etc give C3 as the recommended spec for IS250 when you do a search. So the Magnatec C3 or any Dexos2 compatible 5W-30 oil is fine.

Dexos2 (the genuine GM stuff) is generally cheaper - it comes in 5 litre packs as opposed to 4 litres for Magnatec at about the same cost. And it is usually available on eBay in multi packs (2 or 4) for a good price. You need 2 packs anyway to fill a IS250 (about 6.3 litres for an oil and filter change).

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Last service i did was a full comline service kit, Oil & Oil filter Air filter & Air con filter. Total cost was around £50.00

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LEXUS-IS250-IS250C-OIL-AIR-POLLEN-FILTER-7LT-5W30-FULLY-SYNTHETIC-ENGINE-OIL-/280077199129?fits=Car+Make%3ALexus&hash=item4135e6e719:g:-msAAOSwa-dWlQ6F

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Opie Oils are actually wrong by saying that Magnatec 5w30 C3 is the correct oil, you can see below that they as well suggest Mobil 1 A5. If you e-mail them they will send you correct oil, which is A5. One way or another, the difference is so small that it is unlikely you will ever notice, some say that IS250 burns C3 and therefore there is noticeable oil consumtion.

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Well, I'd agree. But A5 is aimed at extended service intervals (the whole ethos of which, is IMHO, madness and only there to minimise fleet service costs) and C3 is to maximise efficacy of three way catalytic converters (as fitted to IS250). And Lexus don't specify which they prefer - they only specify 5W-30 and ILSAC - any spec offered by oil companies is probably their own imagination.

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As I said, I doubt one would feel the difference. Maybe burning of C3 is associated with improved Catalyst converter function. One way or another shorter oil replacement cycles is the best way to go, so do your oil every 5k-6k... maybe 7k max intervals, rather than 10k or 12.5k and particular fuel type will make little difference.

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Linas i agree with you on oil changes, i personally do them at or as near to 5,000 mile intervals. For the cost it is for nothing and benefits the car engine. 

 At the end of the day, but its each to there own. And arguments on oil is a mine field. Should use this oil or that oil at the end of the day fully synthetic oil

 is man made. So which ever brand you use or believe to be best just use it. Iv tried most oils and to be honest they all perform about the same.

 

 

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What's the panel's view on oil extraction using a pump as opposed to draining via the sump plug?

I know many main dealerships now use suction rather than draining. Certainly makes the process easier for the home mechanic

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A lot of modern cars do not have a drain plug fitted. Another reason to go to dealers and the likes. Always altering bolts and the likes so the home mechanic

struggles to keep up. I can see benefits for and against,you would get every drop of oil out of the sump. Against you still have to remove the old filter anyway.

 I just leave the sump bung out for half an hour or so,while i clean the filter housing.

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I think it is likely to leave sludge etc in the sump - it's not going to be drained as efficiently as by removing the sump plug. And as Keith says, you still have to unscrew the filter anyway - whilst you're under there doing that you might as well have just removed the sump plug (and let's hope they don't generally disappear). And you need to buy a proper pump.

All part of the drive to (try and) make you go to dealers.

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You shouldn't have 'sludge' in the sump! Not sure draining would be anymore scavenging than suction, unless you also drop the sump pan? 

Draining via the sump plug, in many cars, requires the removal of under-trays etc.. The oil filter usually  easily (in my Mercedes anyway) accessible from above?

Some cars (AMG) need to be drained as they had saddle sumps, so couldn't reach both via the dip tube (which a few didn't have!) but does anyone know, do Lexus dealers drain or pump?

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All engines produce some metal particles - if you get a magnetic sump plug, which you can for lots of cars - you will see the particles attached to the plug when it's removed - gearboxes and diffs usually have magnetic plugs for this reason. Whether draining gets rid of more particles than pumping - that is the question!

It is rare for it to be necessary to remove the undertray - the sump drain point usually protrudes beyond the back of the tray (as it does on IS250) or is accessible through a hole or hatch. Good luck with removing the IS250 filter cover from above (but RC300h might well be different!)! It has a hatch underneath for access and it is designed to drain part way through removal - that would make a helluva mess if you didn't remove the hatch and use a catch tray. But agreed - my MX-5 oil filter is more easily changed from topside.

But having read some forums discussing extractor pumps I might be changing my mind - there are quite a few good reports (and some bad ones - and some experiences!)

Anyone who has a boat will know that it can be jolly difficult to get a big enough tray under the sump and extractors are the norm (in fact, somewhat surprisingly, chandlers often sell extractor pumps more cheaply than car places)

I'm sure that Lexus dealers will pump.

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Interesting replies and great tips on the oil change intervals.

So did you guys unanimously vote for C3 or A5? 

If C3, then my question would be Castrol Edge or Magnatec? I've always used Edge in previous cars but I'm happy to use the other stuff based on your recommendations, 

Oil - Copy.png

Thanks!

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Magnatec... the reason, both are overkill for the car and generally I believe we agree that it doesn't really matter what oil you use if you changed in interval less than 10k miles, or less than 10 month.

Exactly same answer for C3 vs. A5 - both are overkill, I would choose A5, because I am not fancy worrying about oil level dropping due to the burn or something and refilling. But if C3 is the one discounted I would go with C3.

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I have not long done an oil change on mine - I used A5 Magnatec - looking back on old cans I keep for the old oil then theres been a mixture of C5 and A5 used - I usually pick it up when on sale in time to do the change. As I do the change twice a year then I don't worry about these two grades. Have done me well in the past few years.

The one time I used Edge I had issues with it in that I needed to regularly top it up - presume it was being burnt easier than the Magnatec - I went to Edge from Magnatec and then back to Magnatec and have used Magnatec ever since with no trouble. Found Edge was changing colour quicker than Magnatec and I needed to top it up on a regular basis over the 6 months

search "Oil and Levels" on the forum - I done a comparison of them both (Edge and Magnatec) in 2014 just to see if there was any difference and there was.

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