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Thanks Keith I agree with Edward, very good of you to take the photo and post it. Now I can see why I can't see it!  The rest looks almost new so is it a question of bad design; feeding it through the sub-frame  at a point where it gets wet but can't dry out?  Think I'll get mine down to my independent and get Bilt Hamber or some other rust proofer sprayed liberally where it runs through the sub-frame (assuming it hasn't already got tin worm).

Thanks once again you've been a great help to me and I imagine many others on the forum.  It's great posts like yours that make this a brilliant forum:-)

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  • 2 months later...

Just updating on this one as I'm tackling a similar rusty fuel filler pipe on my project car.  After looking under my 2002 RX yesterday I can see I'll probably have to repeat the procedure there too in a few MOT's time..

Doesn't seem to be a design flaw so much as just what happens when you shower metal with water, salt, air and debris for years!

Bear in mind these pics show parts from an EP82 Toyota Starlet so the RX will be bigger/heavier but the same basic process when I get round to attacking it.

 

So it's just a case of inspecting from below at the back, aim for the nearside/passenger side rear area:

 

20170616_133957.jpg

 

In this case the tank and metal lines are in quite a state too, most likely due to the car living on Scottish roads for so long.  Weather conditions and road salt are a major factor.

 

20170616_155122.jpg

 

On this car it was easier to grab a fresher (but till slightly rusty) tank, lines and filler although they are still available from Toyota.  I only want to do this job once on each car so best to protect it all in the one shot:

 

20170616_162815.jpg

 

One trip to the soda blaster and after powder costing they look a lot more robust:

 

20170703_144841.jpg

 

Fitting it all this week.  On such a small car it's a fairly basic approach, few 12mm bolts hold the tank in plus an assortment of pipes and clips to undo.  The RX looks to be a bigger ballache of a job.  From what I can see the filler runs quite tight between the rear subframe and the floor so that's going to require a ramp and some manual assistance if it can't be manoeuvred out past it.   

 

 

 

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I think I'll be getting mine up on the ramps and liberally coating in ACF50!  That's worked on keeping my Harley rust free so far (ok...a mid life crisis and I admit it!!!)

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On 16/03/2017 at 8:46 PM, Spacewagon52 said:

Yes of course! I had forgottedn about the regenerative braking. I find automatics seem to have little engine braking unless you go down to 2 or below. 

I wonder how people in the Alps go downhill without over-heating the brakes. I friend, admittedly towing a heavy trailer, burnt out the brakes on his Volvo 245 coming down some pass. He braked gently all the way - which is not recommended.

Thats what the B is for on the rx gearstick ...or the 2 on the Ls ... :wink3:

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  • 1 year later...

Hi,
Appreciate this is thread resurrection but does this issue affect the earlier 400H? I have spotted this advisory on a number of 450H's but not 400H's so I think it affects only the 450.

Thanks

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  • 2 years later...

To resurrect an old thread...

Interesting reading.

I've just noticed a small puddle when I fill up my ageing RX300.

I'll contact the local independent, but I fear the fix will not be cheap ( or economical )?

I assume it's corrosion.

:sad:

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Only one thing to do - investigate.

Thankfully the ride height will make this easier with a RX.  I've seen fuel tanks go porous, fuel lines break and fuel fillers rust through so it could be any or all.

Just be careful that it isn't leaking when the vehicle is running as that has obvious safety issues!

 

EDIT noticed you mention when filling up, the filler neck is probably the culprit.

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  • 2 weeks later...

You may have jinxed me Piers - I had to tackle this issue yesterday on our gen1.

Turned out not too bad as it was only the small line on the filler pipe that had rusted through.  I had some suitable fuel line to replace the corroded metal part so was able to route it through the original path without removing too many bits (PSR wheel, mudflap and loosened the arch liner for access just).  

How have you got on?

 

 

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11 minutes ago, Jaystar77 said:

You may have jinxed me Piers - I had to tackle this issue yesterday on our gen1.

Turned out not too bad as it was only the small line on the filler pipe that had rusted through.  I had some suitable fuel line to replace the corroded metal part so was able to route it through the original path without removing too many bits (PSR wheel, mudflap and loosened the arch liner for access just).  

How have you got on?

 

 

Oh dear.

It's the fuel filler pipe.

Parts and labour at an independent I trust, £600.

Warnings on my brake pipes and rear sub-frame too.

Might be...  bye bye...

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Terrible news ☹️

I'm on the hunt for a complete filler pipe as the large pipe will got eventually.  Looks awkward to replace so dreading it!

If only they could last forever eh?

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Interestingly...

I was looking at a (non Lexus) car and its MOT history.

It failed in February 2022 with this:

Do not drive until repaired (dangerous defects):

  • Offside Front Lower Vehicle structure has excessive corrosion which adversely affects braking or steering sub frame (6.1.1 (c) (ii))

Repair immediately (major defects):

  • Offside Front Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn rear bush (5.3.4 (a) (i))
  • Nearside Front Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn rear bush (5.3.4 (a) (i))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):

  • Offside Front Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
  • Nearside Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c))
  • Offside Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c))

In May 2022 it passed with no comments at all.

The tyres I get, the sub-frame must have been quite a job?

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