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GS 450H my first Lexus


Farqui
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At the front of the roof trim I found the leading edge could easily move up/down on both sides, which causes movement against the windscreen and against the cowl seal.

cowl.thumb.jpg.8f7a1bb9f7cc6bb6fbe27ca39b4fe78e.jpg

In the circled area (both sides) I've temporarily wedged some rubber under the wings to prevent the trims moving.

Whilst out at the weekend an odd creak we couldn't track down now appears to have stopped, so has anyone else found this trim can contribute to cabin creaks?

Should this trim move? - maybe i have some broken clips up front too but it's tricky to see.

Edited by Farqui
image crib'd from the US forum/Google
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Hi All

I am new to this owners club and a new lexus owner

after much research ,reading here, talking to existing Lexus owners I have bought a GS450H Sport ,2008, Black with black leather , 97k, flsh.

it was advertised at a Lexus dealer for £7200, they would not come down on price even though I pointed out a few jobs that would need doing after a few emails over the next few days we agreed on a deal, they did exceed my expectations( I think they'd had enough!) and said if I pay full asking price they will, give fresh mot and do anything that is needed, a service is due which they do inc hybrid health check, scuff on bumper and 1 dent which they will remove, go over the car in full and remove any marks to make as new and re-condition the alloys, how could I say no?!, they've just called me and said it will be ready for pick in a few days and they are going to put on 2 new tyres aswell, can't wait to pick it up! I think I got a good deal, what do you guys think?

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9 hours ago, MR DSB said:

 

Hi All

I am new to this owners club and a new lexus owner

after much research ,reading here, talking to existing Lexus owners I have bought a GS450H Sport ,2008, Black with black leather , 97k, flsh.

it was advertised at a Lexus dealer for £7200, they would not come down on price even though I pointed out a few jobs that would need doing after a few emails over the next few days we agreed on a deal, they did exceed my expectations( I think they'd had enough!) and said if I pay full asking price they will, give fresh mot and do anything that is needed, a service is due which they do inc hybrid health check, scuff on bumper and 1 dent which they will remove, go over the car in full and remove any marks to make as new and re-condition the alloys, how could I say no?!, they've just called me and said it will be ready for pick in a few days and they are going to put on 2 new tyres aswell, can't wait to pick it up! I think I got a good deal, what do you guys think?

Seems a good deal to me. Ask if they will put in on the Lexus Extended Warranty scheme as it must be about 10 years old.You should be given 12 mths warranty anyway.

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thanks royoftherovers, car was 10 years old end of march so just missed out, they will give a 3 month warranty inc all the works needed, I was happy with this , cant wait to pick it up on Thursday

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2 hours ago, MR DSB said:

thanks royoftherovers, car was 10 years old end of march so just missed out, they will give a 3 month warranty inc all the works needed, I was happy with this , cant wait to pick it up on Thursday

You still have the Statutory Warranty DSB which enables you to request the Dealer to fix at his cost, any significant problem which arises within 6 months of purchase.

Enjoy what is a rare and exceptional vehicle. There are only a few on the road.

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This morning Dave at Lex Tek Autos fitted my MTEC coated brake disks and Mintex pads (they were on offer) all round and after just a few stops they feel good :thumbup1:

The anchors worked before but didn't have any real bite. These already feel more purposeful, they'll continue to improve once the coating has worn off.

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I had intended to refresh the brakes myself but bottled it once I read the hybrid bleed procedure, but Dave sorted them easily.  So we're now all set for a break in Belgium at the end of the month :thumbup:

Whilst there he looked over the car and can't see any issues with the low rear suspension, springs or seats.  He suggests replacing the springs even tho he agrees that they look fine.  But I'm reluctant to spend £500 on springs only to find nothing has changed.  So I may well pursue getting some spring spacers made up, @Britprius do you by any chance have the measurements of the OEM spring top seat?

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1 hour ago, Farqui said:

I'd also recommend Dave @ http://www.lex-tekautos.com/ if you need any work doing.  He's a former Lexus tech and 'knows his onions'.

Oh and he liked the subtle burble of my Tony Bank exhaust too :wink3:

Where is he based Lee?

I could not find address, telephone number or email address on his website.

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@royoftherovers, really John?  - hmmm, you're right it's not that obvious (the address is middle of the front page but overlaying the image).

Full details at the bottom of the page tho.

Maybe I found his address on his Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/lextekautos/

He's very nearby the M1/A57 junction; 

Unit 11, Old Waleswood Colliery, Mansfield Road, Sheffield

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Hmmm, rear springs are much cheaper at 99euro's each from Toyodiy and £63 each from Amayama.

Has anyone used these before?

Or have any other suppliers?

I recently imported via JP-CarParts and found the Fedex UK charge quite large, was still cheaper than buying in blightly mind you. 

Part# 48231-30B11

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I imported my Illuminated scuff plates via amayama and the service was very good. I would definitely use them again. Shipping was quite expensive IIRC, but fast (EMS). I was also stung with an import charge, but I was Ok with that since it was expected, plus the total price including everything was still pretty good.

 

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Lee. I will measure up the spring seat dimensions for the rears along with pictures of the spring cone to give a better idea of whats required. These could be turned in aluminium, steel, or plastic based material to a height of your choosing. I will also give sizes for a spacer at the top of the spring cone as well as this is a good alternative method of raising the rear of the car.

John

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The spring cone looks like this.

P_20180522_181223.thumb.jpg.4dd30507e247d27a451f0f07b112884e.jpg

As you can see at the bottom it has a circular flange of 120mm dia that the spring along with the mounting rubber sits on centred by the tube of 84 mm dia. The spacer will sit on here. A similar tube will need to protrude from the spacer to centre the spring. This could be an extension of the existing tube made from sheet steel.

If fitting a spacer at the top of the cone. See pictures

P_20180522_181248.thumb.jpg.800365fc85469391d75a758dc0478ab9.jpgP_20180522_181314.thumb.jpg.f8aeebfabbc7e47f7d16eea50d70063a.jpg

A ring will be required with an ID of 66mm, and an OD of 95mm. This will need to be drilled on a PCD of 46 mm, but the holes are not equidistant. The holes are spaced on the PCD 2 at 75mm  apart the third at equal distance from the other two. The existing studs have enough thread to take up to 16mm of spacer. Near the bottom of the cone are two mounting brackets. The slotted hole on these will need slotting upwards to accommodate the lowering of the cone by the spacer, and the amount added. It is also possible to bend them upwards to a degree.

P_20180522_181333.thumb.jpg.f23a08ad74c075a868a44d3be984aef3.jpg

Another way is to cut the cone under the top flange, and extend it. The shock absorbers have plenty of length to accommodate this within reason

I hope you find this of use.

John. 

 

 

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Fantastic info pal, thank you. Handy that you had a spare lying around [emoji106]

As you say, there are a couple of options. I'll digest it and then see what I can come up with.

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Apparently Toyota Crown/Mark X strut spacers should fit http://stores.ebay.co.uk/tema4x4/?_dmd=1&_nkw=TOY-15-031

mnceVmmntsmBubqyvs9FaJA.jpg

I hadn't considered the comparable Toyota models in my searches.

These are top mounted and come with longer studs, which will mean 'tweaking' the lower fixing brackets.

I'd still prefer a spacer on the upper spring isolator but finding one off the shelf that fits, is proving tricky.

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The rear suspension towers are the same between the GS and the Mark X, part# 48750-30150.

So the rear shock tower bolt patterns are the same between models and the spacer linked in the previous post should fit.

What's the import duty on parts like from Russia?  Can't say I've ever bought anything from there, yet...

Ordering new springs and isolaters from Amayama Japan with the cheapest postage (30-60 days) is around £180 + duty + UK postage charge.

The spacers seem like a bodge but new springs may be no different so I'm tempted to try spacers, they're also cheaper.

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3 hours ago, Farqui said:

The rear suspension towers are the same between the GS and the Mark X, part# 48750-30150.

So the rear shock tower bolt patterns are the same between models and the spacer linked in the previous post should fit.

What's the import duty on parts like from Russia?  Can't say I've ever bought anything from there, yet...

Ordering new springs and isolaters from Amayama Japan with the cheapest postage (30-60 days) is around £180 + duty + UK postage charge.

The spacers seem like a bodge but new springs may be no different so I'm tempted to try spacers, they're also cheaper.

Good find on the spacers. I see fitting a spacer at the top of the cone as the best option without any reliability problems. The lower fixing brackets could be modified in a number of ways, but I see they supply extension brackets in the kit anyway.

A 20mm thick spacer would raise the car about 30mm. This would be ideal in your situation, but another idea would be to buy the 30mm version,and cut them through at 20mm as both pieces could be fitted if you needed more height or 10mm pieces if you need less. Effectively giving three height options at only £5 more.

John

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John@Britprius, thanks for verifying and your idea about the 30mm option(s) is brilliant [emoji106]

Oh yeah, well spotted on the securing brackets - I hadn't really clocked them.

Spacers at the top of the tower also means I won't need to wrestle with the coil springs #bonus

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  • 3 weeks later...

After fitting the tow bar the exhaust occasionally knocked (very occasionally) so I renewed all 6 hangers. 

The two bigger hangers sit in the middle of the car with four smaller ones at the rear.

Here are the old rubbers flanked with their new counterparts;

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SealeyTools part numbers EX01 and EX02 are a fair bit firmer than the tired old OEM items and worked a treat with no more knocking. 

Was quick and easy to swap them over too, once the rear was jacked up.  

Since fitting I've covered over 1k miles with approx half of that fully loaded with 4 adults / luggage in the boot and on the Bak-Rak.

Reminder: the tow bar bolts in between the rear zoorst hanger brackets and the boot chassis rails. The slightly lowered exhaust coupled with the narrower tow bar mounting plates/bolts caused the knock.

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  • 3 weeks later...

After fitting new disks/pads I decided the calipers needed some TLC and with such good weather recently it seemed like a good time to get it ticked off the to-do list.

All calipers were de-greased, quickly rubbed over with abrasive pads, given a final wipe down before paint.  They were then all given several light coats of etch primer, base coat and clear coat, high temperature paint.

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I think they came out pretty well.

This was the first time I'd painted calipers on a vehicle and the bin liner trick really does help to minimise masking.

For reference the calipers before painting can be seen a bit further up this thread; 

 

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