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Too heavy handed with the cracker bar, one broken wheel stud.

Is it best to replace the 5 studs or just the one? don't mind the cost, just thinking about safety.

Also is it safe to drive with only 4 studs holding wheel on.

When getting the spare out of the boot found I had damp in there, so looks like the seal needs doing also (never rains but it pours)

 

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Oh dear, was an over jealous windy gun used to fit them? - during a recent tyre change maybe?

Replacing the one stud should be fine but if you have concerns then changing them all is wise.

Running on 4 studs 'should' be okay provided you don't go far and take it easy in the bends and braking. Only take an essential trip and don't forget to replace it ASAP.

I'm on my mobile at the moment so can't see if the vehicle is old. If so, maybe metal fatigue is the cause?

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Hi Lee

no it was with a 2foot long cracker bar but didn't seem to be much pressure to shear the bolt, so maybe metal fatigue as you say it's a 98 ls400, maybe best to order 5 new ones. Oh and another new tyre, the one I just shredded hasn't done more than 300 miles 

Hi Chris

I do recall reading somewhere about boot seals, it looks in good order so the water must be creeping up and under the seal. will search and see whats involved.

Thanks for your replies.

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The cause of the wheel stud snapping off is almost certainly down to the wheel nuts being over tightened with an air gun. This over time will stretch the studs, and eventually they break off. This is not down to you using a breaker bar to undo them. It is through over tightening.

This may sound over the top, but I would replace at minimum all the studs on that wheel if not all the wheel studs on the car as they are cheap easy to change, and a safety item.

John.

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4 hours ago, JIM PIKE said:

Also is it safe to drive with only 4 studs holding wheel on.

I don't know the correct answer but it would put xtra, uneven pressure on the 4 studs which is simply not supposed to be there.

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Hi John

I am inclined to agree with what you say about airguns, I have watched them and they use the torque wrench after which just clicks without actually doing any tightening of the wheel nuts which indicates that the nuts are tight or over tightened. I will replace all the studs on that wheel and maybe all wheels (or my mechanic will)

Hi Denis

I understand what you are saying but need to use the LS for small journeys, so will have to drive like the old F**t that I am

Pity the tyre was flat outside home or I could have got the AA out to change the wheel and blamed them for the stud.

Found some studs at www.afcparts.co.uk  £25.64 for 5 with shipping

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9 minutes ago, JIM PIKE said:

Hi John

I am inclined to agree with what you say about airguns, I have watched them and they use the torque wrench after which just clicks without actually doing any tightening of the wheel nuts which indicates that the nuts are tight or over tightened. I will replace all the studs on that wheel and maybe all wheels (or my mechanic will)

Hi Denis

I understand what you are saying but need to use the LS for small journeys, so will have to drive like the old F**t that I am

Pity the tyre was flat outside home or I could have got the AA out to change the wheel and blamed them for the stud.

Found some studs at www.afcparts.co.uk  £25.64 for 5 with shipping

The correct method for fitting wheels is to just spin up the nuts with an air gun, and then tighten with a torque wrench, but rotating the torque wrench in the undo direction and then in the tightening direction.

The last time I had a tyre fitted at a place I had no choice but to use while on holiday they tightened the nuts till the air gun would go no further. I spoke to the manager and insisted they replaced all 5 studs on that wheel. After removing the wheel it was obvious the studs were stretched by the narrowing of the thread near the wheel flange. I took an hour for the to get new studs and 5 minutes to fit them. Digging out a torque wrench that obviously had not been used in months the "fitter" tightened the nuts properly.

John.

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Come on then Chris who's Tony Bones, must be a story there?

 

Thanks Steve for the info, I tried a couple of Lexus dealers this afternoon but parts dept close early, only poor old salesmen have to work all afternoon.

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Ordered 10 studs for the front wheels from Lexus Birmingham less than a fiver each. £7 each on the bay.

Thinking that whilst my indie has the calipers and discs off I may as well replace them. looking on the bay there are many that claim to be the best? seems to be masses of rear discs and pads but limited amount of front discs, I don't really like the look of some with loads of holes for multiple fitting, they look like they are weakened with the amount of holes.

has anyone got any recommendations as to make and or where to buy from

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Pals and I have used MTEC coated disks on other cars and never had any trouble. I suspect I'll be fitting a set to mine soon.

The coating help to keep the bells from rusting and looking unsightly.

They have 4 vehicle years listed for the LS400 http://www.mtecbrakes.com/brake-discs/lexus/ls400-89-00.html

I'd get plain rather than drilled and/or grooved - which are noisy, generate more dust and wear pads quicker.  Ordering plain rotors is a bit of a faff as you first select a disk, say grooved and then in your Basket add plain as an option.  A 10% discount code is listed on their main/front page :wink3:

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Thanks Lee

Thanks for the heads up on 10% discount code, would have missed that 

can't find how to edit basket to change to plain discs,

begs the question what is best Grooved, drilled n grooved, dimpled n grooved or just drilled. bit of a minefield.

 

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You're welcome.

Plain, stick to plain Brian.  Let me take a look at the dumb Checkout process for adding plain disks, hang on...

I had grooved and changed them to back to plain.  

Grooved make a noise when you brake from speed, gets very annoying.

Drilled aren't needed for road use.

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Looks like they've tweaked it since I last bought a set.

Now you can search for 'plain' in their store or use this link to add plain disks to your order; http://www.mtecbrakes.com/plain-style.html

Adding 'plain' over rides any dimpled/grooved option you initially selected.

Plain disks are still vented (where appropriate) so don't worry about any loss of cooling.

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Many thanks again Lee,

interesting that without the extra work involved drilling or grooving the discs are same price. Still I'm happy with the price compares well to the prices on the bay. it's a bit of a gamble getting such things as brake parts from the bay, can never really be sure of the quality. 

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Yeah, it's kinda odd that the prices don't differ for grooved/etc.

Adding the protective coating will bump the price up a bit but it really will keep the disks looking good.

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Brian, you can still get front discs from Lexus for the Mk3 or Mk4 LS400 and they are reasonably priced. I bought a pair from Lexus Birmingham a couple of months ago for £115 which included delivery.

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Thanks Colin

Shouldn't surprise me really, when I replaced bottom ball joints if memory serves they were around £125 for the pair adt/blueprint wanted £120 each. the wheel studs I just purchased from Lexus Birmingham at just under £50 for 10 delivered.

My indie has looked at my brake discs and came to the conclusion that I am "anal" about the car, he says just to replace the pads as the discs will be fine for another 20,000 miles or more, so I will go by his judgement as I only do around 4000 miles a year.

A tank full of petrol lasts me a month, so happy days appx £20 a week fuel bill, insurance works out around £5 a week. What other car of that quality could I drive for such a small amount of outlay

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12 hours ago, JIM PIKE said:

Lexus Birmingham at just under £50 for 10 delivered.

Can someone please give the specific birmingham lexus & link, google comes up with 5 birmingham lexus, this one seems a bit more prominant but is it the lexus mentioned here?? >>4 Wingfoot Way, Birmingham B24 9HF

 

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The Lexus discs do seem to last well, Brian. There is nothing in the service history for my 1997 car to indicate that the front discs have ever been replaced, so they could well be the original ones. If so, they have done 20 years and 223,000 miles, which is pretty good.

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