I've had enough of other brands and remembering how reliable was my father's ES300 I decided to go for a budget Lexus. It's a GS300 from 2005 (I live in the UK, ES300 was imported).
I read stories about people having the car over 200k miles and going strong, but there's lots of stories about carbon build up that scare the hell out of me (mostly US though).
I have few questions:
- for those who got into owning a GS300 that's potentially affected, did you regret your decision?
- there are services that offer engine carbon cleaning - do these work?
- I'd be using premium fuel, is it enough to eliminate the issue?
The car I'm looking at is over 100k and the previous owner had it for over 8 years, so I assume it should be ok, but maybe he's selling it as it's out of warranty and he's started experiencing said issue, I don't know. There are no outstanding recalls on the car. It's the £305 road tax bracket - but I don't think the higher tax has anything to do with engine redesign that avoids the issue? After all, I just want a reliable Lexus.
I'm going to go all the way south to see the car on Friday. I'll need to take it there and then or not. It will be covered with engine and transmission warranty for one year, but I understand these carbon build up issues are hard to reproduce, and from what I red Lexus dealerships avoided responsibility in the past by saying they couldn't reproduce the issue.
I'd be more interested to see if regular engine carbon cleaning (yearly?) is a solution (I don't want to add cleaner to fuel every time I top up the tank)?
Any other advice and tips will be appreciated!
I just recently bought a 2001 LS430 and It’s got an issue with the front suspension dropping usually over the course of 3-4 hours. The front end of the car is nearly on the floor when I go to it after leaving it overnight.
When I got the car I had an issue where the rear of the car would be stuck in the high setting so I done a Battery reset which sorted the rear suspension but the fromt still keeps dropping. Although when I press the high button the car will raise and get stuck in the high position again so will have to do another Battery reset to fix
Also something else I’ve noticed that when pumping the suspension up when it’s low, it takes about 5-10 minutes and the pump will kick on and off even though the front suspension is low. Is this normal?
also any ideas on the suspension dropping? I have checked the shock absorbers and can’t see any moisture anywhere or any obvious leaks is there anything else I could check?
Appreciate any help because I haven’t had the car long and hope to get it sorted. I like the car but the suspension is sending me mad
So to my amazement my late 2000 (T3?) GS300 passed the MOT with its very aged and knackered exhaust. Two advisories, webbing of a seat belt and "oil leak pinion rear diff". So two questions if I may for your thoughts, experience and knowledge :)
1. Theres no Diff whine, and though wet, I'm not getting any drips. And to be honest I've not had a leaky diff on any car before. Is this common? Tough to fix? Indicative of anything major (other than the diff running dry of course)? (cars just coming up to 150k miles)
2. Exhausts. How much difference to the sound do the "resonators" and maybe third cat make internally? I don't want to lose back pressure anyway, but I see/read that people who have fitted stainless steel systems without the "resonators" on the middle/Y-pipe are getting a lot of drone inside. What needs to stay in some fashion to keep the internal noise level as close to stock as possible?
I ask because I still want to replace the system from the front to the back (not the manifold and 2 front cats though, they're okay). Standard systems used are £300+, third party new totals around £400 or so. Stainless steeel fitted new, cheapest quote so far is £390 (I've had loads of quotes). However, thats almost certainly without the resonators/mufflers on the Y pipe.
Last option and most likely one is some shiney tail pipes from the USA (those plus shipping works out cheaper than UK fitted ones). All I want is a healthy system in the middle (third cat/front pipe and middle Y-piece) and shiney non-OTT tail pipes that just give a little more external tune for the lovely 2JZ. Seeing as standard rear boxes are pushing on £200 a piece new, I can get a pair of stainless steel ones for about £280, or for £340'ish I can get a Manzo cat back (Y-piece and rear boxes) however the Y-piece has no "resonators" and tempting as it looks, I fear a terrible noise inside and possibly a drop in back pressure I'd rather not have.
Sorry for the waffle, but the whole picture might save some guess work for you :)
(Images of a standard system and a Manzo cat back for reference about what I am waffling on about)
Having had my latest GS300 for a couple of months now, the MOT is due and I know the current exhaust is an issue (see pics).
I have been desperately hunting for a stainless steel system in preference to an OEM seeing that the two used ones on eBay are a mighty £350! And MIJ have quoted me £445 for new S/S with life time warranty (as an FYI).
So the questions are:
1. If I plug that hole in the back box, and make sure that and the awful paste all over the joint isn't leaking either (thats how I bought the car, not my handy work I'll add) might I stand a chance I wonder, as technically the fail is excessive corrosion. But I fear all that putty is an obvious giveaway of excessive corrosion even if its not leaking.
2. Another MOT requirement seems to be the correct number of baffles/mufflers, so should one slap a S/S cat back on would it be an issue. Or should I maybe say has anyone taken there car (any car) in for an MOT with a S/S cat back and had any issues other than possible noise or emissions?
Many thanks! I am getting a little frustrated that in the last two months I've not found a single second hand S/S system and I'm not really wanting to throw to much on the car just yet until I've had it a while longer.