After nearly 5 years and 90,000 miles, time for me to move on from my beloved IS300.
In summary, 2001 IS300 in Scarlatti Red, 185,000 miles, MoT until middle of May. I’m the third owner (me since 2013) after Lexus in Aberdeen and the second owner in Chesterfield. It’s my daily driver, running pretty much every day for about 19,000 miles a year with servicing by me and my trusted independent mechanic. I won’t list the features and specs, I’ll assume you either know already or know where to find them!
You don’t need me to tell you that to the trade at this age and mileage it is practically worthless. I’m listing here to in the hope of selling to an enthusiast, even if it is to just for someone to strip for parts. But I honestly think that would be a waste as someone with some time, plus some spanner knowledge, basic eBay skills and a modest bit of cash could restore her to a tidy motor for themselves or a family member. May be even to sell it on, who knows.
Here we go then, in more detail, warts and all:
Replacement lower front wishbones, May 2014. Replacement OEM radiator fitted 2015 (by Lexus Hedge End). Replacement cambelt and auxiliary belt 2015 (by Lexus Hedge End). Replacement front brake callipers and carriers, February 2016. Both sills were welded around the infamous rot point just ahead of the rear wheels, May 2017. Replacement coil springs to front nearside and offside at last MoT, May 2017. Replacement offside front wheel bearing, September 2017. Replacement OEM discs and pads on the front, September 2017. These were also skimmed on the car January 2018 (more about that later on), Replacement Toyota Battery, December 2017. Following a pothole induced puncture January 2018, there are two new Avon ZV7s on the front and it had four-wheel laser tracking at the same time. Two ATF changes in my ownership, plus one differential oil change. Driven exclusively on 97RON petrol (V-Power or equivalent) since January 2017. Over my ownership, I have had an average of 30.2mpg; V-Power doesn’t affect mileage in my experience, but it does make the engine quieter and supposedly it keeps the fuel injection system clean. Low oil consumption, about 1 litre every 3000 miles (5/30 fully synthetic) and that has been consistent over the course of my ownership. I tend to top-up with 500ml every month or so to maintain level. Negligible coolant consumption. I have a folder full of receipts and a saddo’s complete fuel, oil and tyre log. More subjectively, it drives beautifully. The gearbox and engine are both peaches, they pull lustily and change smoothly. I never have any doubts about doing 500 miles a day for work or for leisure and still get out fresh as a daisy. Everything works except the CD player (what a surprise) and the heated mirrors (I believe both glasses have the wrong connectors) and the interior is squeak and rattle free (except when it’s below zero outside). I’ve always driven with mechanical sympathy, never been anywhere near the rev-limiter, always allowed it to warm-up properly, never done burnouts and always tried to avoid battering over potholes or rough surfaces (except for last month’s incident courtesy of HCC). Not so good bits:
The cambelt and tensioner will be due a change by 207k. The red paint comes up lovely when cleaned and polished, but there are bits of lacquer peel in a few places on the front bumper. Annoyingly, last autumn I picked my first door dink (on the waistline on the front passenger door) and a kindly soul at Tesco put the slightest bump on top of rear bumper, but you must look quite hard to spot them. The wheels were refurbished a few years ago but have suffered some cosmetic scuffing since then. However, there is no rampant corrosion, witnessed by the tyres holding pressure well. Incidentally, the spare is a virtually untouched 17” alloy. A persistent P430 error causes the EML light to come on, as it has for the last two years. Easy enough to clear (I can show you this) but returns within a hundred miles. A replaced oxygen sensor did not cure it but as it has always passed its emissions test come MoT time, and mpg hasn’t dropped it’s always been further down on the list of things to sort. The exhaust had a catastrophic split last summer and while my mechanic did a very good job of welding it, it will need to be replaced in due course. At the time, my mechanic was unable to source (in reasonable time) any cheapo mild steel versions, hence the repair. Since then, I have investigated a custom stainless-steel system and got quotes of about £600; I imagine Lexus OEM parts are more expensive. When I had the front discs on-car skimmed last month it turned-out that the pulsing through the pedal was not a disc or hub wobble, instead they reckoned it is an ABS fault. There are no stored codes and no lights to give a clue what is at fault, so the garage suspects it is a mechanical fault. Possibly a sensor is not reporting properly, possibly an ABS reluctor ring has lost some teeth, maybe it is the ABS pump/control module. Of course, this is only speculation at thisstage. My spanner days are over, so I’d have to leave it with my mechanic for a week to eliminate the system bit-by-bit, not something I’m able or indeed keen to do. But someone who is doing it themselves and can live with it off the road could certainly do it much cheaper; the bits are on eBay at reasonable prices. I should emphasise braking performance is unaffected. Summary:
I hope you can see by what I’ve listed above, this is a going concern, not some basket case. It’s used daily so mileage will increase. I’ll be sad to see it go and I’ve dithered for ages between moving it on or spending the cash to keep it. It’s been a fine car and I wonder if I will regret the decision to sell in a few months’ time? I have no unreasonable expectations and I’m not after fleecing someone with a silly valuation. Before disposing by some other method, I wanted to first offer this to an enthusiast here who will get the benefit of securing an IS with a known history. I have no doubt with a bit of effort now, another 185k is entirely possible…
I’m pitching it at £500 o.n.o. PM me for any other details and/or photos you want and the registration, so you can MoT history check. Car is based in Hampshire, but I’m willing to travel if not unreasonable distance and you are serious!
By the way, the picture was taken on a North Wales road trip in August 2017.
Hi all, im new to this forum and am a proud new lexus is200 owner. I recently decided to remove the factory stereo and install an aftermarket double din stereo, upon completing the installation i noticed the satnav screen is gone blank and will just go crazy whenever the ignition is turned over the screen just flips up and down. I searched the internet for a solution and came across one post which was a guy selling a device on ebay what tricks the car into thinking the factory stereo is still there however he has no longer got any devices left and doesnt sell them. Does anyone know any other way to get it working again? Any help will be highly appreciated. Thanks
So I recently got into a little accident with my is200 manual and now need a new rear hub, and maybe other parts although unsure what yet. Question is will parts from a is200 auto suffice. So I wanted this post to outline the differences.
I know the differential is different with a higher ratio i believe, and obviously the tranny. But is there anything else?
I have a guy ready to sell me a bunch of parts from an auto is200, but I'm sceptical with mine being a manual
Had to get a replacement Battery in a hurry today for my 2003 IS 300 Sportcross, so went on-line.
Eurocarparts website was easy to use and had a tasty discount offer. They had a choice of 2 so I selected the more expensive one with 70Ah, CCA 540A, rating and ordered it 'click and collect'. £67.40 inc vat and 3 year g'tee which I didn't think was bad.
Now I've got it home I can see it doesn't fit the Battery tray properly. The base area is too big to fit deep in the tray so it sits quite high. Also, the new Battery is 10mm taller than my knackered Battery. As a result, the standard Battery clamp won't fit (the rods aren't long enough) and the terminals are worryingly close to the closed bonnet.
Is this a common issue?
Is there a work around or will I have to return it to eurocarparts?
Is there a generally recommended/ easily available Battery that fits?
Thanks in advance for your replies!