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Is 250 Rear Calipers


leelacey17
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Good afternoon all,

 

Bit of advise from those of you that have suffered from the issues with the rear calipers.

 

When I first move my car I can hear the rear disks / pads squeak a bit for example first thing in the morning or like today when it's been sitting whilst I was at work. The noise soon goes and the car rolls in neutral without any hint of the brakes constantly catching. The noise stops after 30 seconds or so.

 

The economy is not effected. Is this the start of the calipers starting to need servicing?

 

Many thanks

 

Lee

 

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The calipers are not featured on the service schedule if you are enrolled on one.

You need to specify them to be serviced either by Lexus or an indie garage or do them yourself (not a hard job at all)

Neglecting them will surely set you back at least £300 per caliper if replacing with an OEM part. I do mine every 6 months although this can be done on an annual basis. The grease is an important factor and I use the Toyota Red Rubber Grease which is the correct grease to use for "lubeing" the slide pins of the calipers

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or you can refurbish the calipers to the level exceeding the OE replacement (which 99% will be refurbished as well) ~£150 per caliper. The only downside - you will need to get them off the car and it will take like a week to send them off and get them delivered back to you. 

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I can do the work myself it's no bother. Just wondered if anyone has had the issue and when did it start?

Mine just squeak a bit for a very short while as I'm for example reversing off the drive in the morning. After that you hear nothing and I'm getting no binding.

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It is more like everyone had this issue and it is literally constant. Ideally you should clean and grease the calipers at least once a year if not more often, and if that is not done after around 2-3 years they will start slowly seizing. Rear calipers much more than fronts...

My car is 10 years old now and I can see previous owner had replaced rear calipers twice and fonts once, yet again my rears are almost completely seized so I am getting all 4 professionally refurbished and painted.

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8 hours ago, Linas.P said:

It is more like everyone had this issue and it is literally constant. Ideally you should clean and grease the calipers at least once a year if not more often, and if that is not done after around 2-3 years they will start slowly seizing. Rear calipers much more than fronts...

My car is 10 years old now and I can see previous owner had replaced rear calipers twice and fonts once, yet again my rears are almost completely seized so I am getting all 4 professionally refurbished and painted.

So is your car off the road - or did you source a spare set of calipers? I got a quote from BCS in nottingham which I thought was quite pricey. 

I might still do it, depends on what they look like when done - so I hope you will post some pictures :)

 

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15 hours ago, bobmc said:

So is your car off the road - or did you source a spare set of calipers? I got a quote from BCS in nottingham which I thought was quite pricey. 

I might still do it, depends on what they look like when done - so I hope you will post some pictures :)

No, I got spare set of calipers from @gaborpinter - many thanks! That was exactly the reason why I haven't done that before - I cannot afford my car of the road for 2 weeks. I think they have express service for additional price which turns around calipers in 4 working days - still expect to be without a car for a week at very least.

In December BCS had 50% off for caliper refurbishment services with premium paint. In reality it was more like 30%, because the discount applied to work only before VAT, shipping and parts - still good deal though. Paid ~£450 for 4 calipers complete "re-manufacturing" with premium paint and 10 years (paint) warranty, paid another £57 recently when they inspected the calipers for set of slider pins (one was stuck) and one broken bolt which they had to weld-out off the caliper.

Will post the results when calipers are back with me - should be this or next week.

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On 3/10/2018 at 5:38 PM, leelacey17 said:

I can do the work myself it's no bother. Just wondered if anyone has had the issue and when did it start?

Mine just squeak a bit for a very short while as I'm for example reversing off the drive in the morning. After that you hear nothing and I'm getting no binding.

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Take a read of this. It's spot on

and here

 

If I were you I'd check all the slide pins front and rear and take that as your start point on your servicing schedule. Take another look in, say, 8/10 months and see how they compare. It does not take long to do... and you are saving money in the long run.

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19 hours ago, bobmc said:

 

So is your car off the road - or did you source a spare set of calipers? I got a quote from BCS in nottingham which I thought was quite pricey. 

I might still do it, depends on what they look like when done - so I hope you will post some pictures :)

 

Just mentioned the discount and got e-mail saying they running similar discount again:

 

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Where does one buy the genuine Toyota red grease from? Is it a Toyota/Lexus-only job?

A quick look on eBay etc yields little to no results, unless I fancy importing it for an extortionate amount.

Or, is some of the other stuff available (eg: Castrol) any good?

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Bear in mind a slide pin can be seized and you may not particularly be aware of it. I had a rear pin seized last year. It was the lower pin that acts as a swivel for the caliper if you want to get at the brake pads. I had no idea it was seized until I tried to swivel it and could not budge it. When I did shift it i could see only one pad was being used on that side as the caliper could not slide.

Once you have a wheel off you can have a quick look and grab the caliper and try gently pushing it out and in. That will tell you the pins are free and hopefully have a bit of grease on them.

Just follow Shaun's excellent guide and give everything a good clean up and reassemble at each corner and all will be good. A little copper grease on the pad shim helps stop squeal too.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Afternoon all,

Started to do the service on the rear brakes today. Drivers side was a dream just stripped down and greased and put back together without a problem.

The passenger side was !@$##% seized

Help needed. The lower pin is in a right state so I'm assuming that I will need a new caliper and bracket! All I can find on eBay is the calipers without brackets for about £120. I cannot find the life of me find the bracket on its own.

I found a complete assembly for around £240???? That means it's £120 for a bracket?

Has anyone brought replacements and if so where from and how much?

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6 minutes ago, leelacey17 said:

Afternoon all,

Started to do the service on the rear brakes today. Drivers side was a dream just stripped down and greased and put back together without a problem.

The passenger side was !@$##% seized

Help needed. The lower pin is in a right state so I'm assuming that I will need a new caliper and bracket! All I can find on eBay is the calipers without brackets for about £120. I cannot find the life of me find the bracket on its own.

I found a complete assembly for around £240???? That means it's £120 for a bracket?

Has anyone brought replacements and if so where from and how much?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 

What is actually seized....top or bottom slide pin?  I had one a few weeks ago and drenched it in WD40 etc.  Managed to get it turning and slowly but surely extracted the pin.  If I remember correctly the pin gets terminated in the actual carrier and passes through.

Have you managed to get the small bolt out which holds the caliper onto the carrier bracket?  If not then try holding the longer pin bolt with a pair of pliers or molegrips and then try turning the small bolt head with a spanner or if round bolt head another molegrip.  All you need is to get that sucker out.

Would suggest that the caliper might be OK.....

It's a complete pita.....if you can separate the caliper from the bracket then you can see if the caliper piston moves in freely.

Hope you manage.

 

 

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What is actually seized....top or bottom slide pin?  I had one a few weeks ago and drenched it in WD40 etc.  Managed to get it turning and slowly but surely extracted the pin.  If I remember correctly the pin gets terminated in the actual carrier and passes through.
Have you managed to get the small bolt out which holds the caliper onto the carrier bracket?  If not then try holding the longer pin bolt with a pair of pliers or molegrips and then try turning the small bolt head with a spanner or if round bolt head another molegrip.  All you need is to get that sucker out.
Would suggest that the caliper might be OK.....
It's a complete pita.....if you can separate the caliper from the bracket then you can see if the caliper piston moves in freely.
Hope you manage.
 
 
It's the lower one that's seized. Top one came out no problem but had a real problem pulling the caliper down. I managed to open the rubber boot on the lower one and it was full of rust so water has got in.

You can feel the pin move side to side if that makes sense but won't come out. You think with a pair of grips on it it may come loose?

If I can get it out I can just replace the pin but it seems solid.



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Have you got the little bolt out that holds the caliper to the carrier bracket?

If yes take the caliper away from the bracket.  Then see if you can remove the bracket from the car.  With it off the car you should be able to exert more pressure to try and get the pin going round and round and break the rust seal.  Then slowly try and work it out of the bracket.  With it off the car you can try and get WD40 in behind the rubber and down into the recess where the pin attaches to the bracket.

Lot depends whether you need the car as well....if you can get the caliper off and the pin in stuck inside the bracket you could then take the bracket to a local garage and get them to extract the slide pin.  I also gave the hold that the slider pin goes into on the bracket a clean with a wire drill bit.

 

Do you have replacement sliding pins?

 

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Have you got the little bolt out that holds the caliper to the carrier bracket?
If yes take the caliper away from the bracket.  Then see if you can remove the bracket from the car.  With it off the car you should be able to exert more pressure to try and get the pin going round and round and break the rust seal.  Then slowly try and work it out of the bracket.  With it off the car you can try and get WD40 in behind the rubber and down into the recess where the pin attaches to the bracket.
Lot depends whether you need the car as well....if you can get the caliper off and the pin in stuck inside the bracket you could then take the bracket to a local garage and get them to extract the slide pin.  I also gave the hold that the slider pin goes into on the bracket a clean with a wire drill bit.
 
Do you have replacement sliding pins?
 
I can get the carrier off no problem just couldn't shift the pin. I only took them off for a service as it would be the first time of done them, then found the problem.

Going to leave it until I've ordered more pins as it doesn't seem to be effecting the economy but would be effecting the braking performance to some extent. Your right if I can get the thing out it's a simple fix. Next day off I could be spending it sorting it out rather than cleaning it. Mrs might not moan about that[emoji16]

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Get new slider pins for all round.......you will need them at some point or maybe replace them all now.

I got mine from Frentech and they sell them on eBay.....total £58 if I remember correctly.

The rears are meant to be more suspect to seizing so you may find the front ones are the least of your worries.

Maybe have a look at the rear ones just to see what they look like and if they look bad then get the new pins and put into local garage and get them to replace

all the slider pins.

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