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Greasing slider pins,,,,how often?


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Am going to attempt the rear slider pins this coming Saturday morning...

What is the size of the Allen key/bit required for the rear pin?

Is it a 10mm hex?  Going to order from amazon and just wanted to check the size.

Thanks

 

 

 

 

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I thought it was 10 from memory. I’ve just looked on a website or 3 and they appear to indicate 8mm Allen key size and 19mm spanner for the other pin.

Here if you want to have a looksee

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/brake-systems-16456/brake-pads-shoes-16515/brake-caliper-bolt-pin-11261/2008/lexus/is250?sort=score+desc

Why not just get a metric set. They’ll come in handy for many tasks.

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4 minutes ago, normski2 said:

I thought it was 10 from memory. I’ve just looked on a website or 3 and they appear to indicate 8mm Allen key size and 19mm spanner for the other pin.

Here if you want to have a looksee

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/brake-systems-16456/brake-pads-shoes-16515/brake-caliper-bolt-pin-11261/2008/lexus/is250?sort=score+desc

Why not just get a metric set. They’ll come in handy for many tasks.

Excellent.....and many thanks.  Was going to get a metric set but wanted to make sure that it WAS metric and no larger than 10mm.

 

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Do not believe it would be a direct fail and suspect this level of detail is not checked but may result in other symptoms - brake imbalance, one brake pad wearing quicker than the other but main problem would be that your braking efficiency would be reduced and more prone to failure.

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8 minutes ago, KenMavor said:

Do not believe it would be a direct fail and suspect this level of detail is not checked but may result in other symptoms - brake imbalance, one brake pad wearing quicker than the other but main problem would be that your braking efficiency would be reduced and more prone to failure.

+1 to that. That is spot on in my estimation.

I had a lower rear pin seized and MOT did not pick it up at all. It was only me getting in and having a root around that found the problem. I just felt the brakes did not quite feel right. Ended up getting a replacement pin from a very helpful scrapyard. 

Then I ended up getting all enthused and finally painted all the calipers green over a few days.

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My car passed MOT with no advisories and I was hoping this was a sign all is well in this issue. After reading all the experienced members posts regarding the slide pins , I must admit I'm dreading having a look. Still waiting for slightly better weather to get the job tackled.

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5 hours ago, KenMavor said:

Am going to attempt the rear slider pins this coming Saturday morning...

What is the size of the Allen key/bit required for the rear pin?

Is it a 10mm hex?  Going to order from Amazon and just wanted to check the size.

Thanks

 

 

 

 

IMG_20180327_150829.jpg

IMG_20180327_150815.jpg

It is a 19mm socket for the top bolt (the one that's shrouded in the rubber boot) Its an 8mm or H8 key for the bolt (was on my old 2007 model).... make sure tho before you buy as I am sure around 2007 the rear brakes were upgraded.

You may need to apply a bit of heat to remove the bolt it it wont budge - carefull in and around this area if doing so. Don't go gung ho and use a pair of pliers in the pin unless you know its moving.

Have you got the grease sorted? Nows a good time to also clean the two brake pad securing pins that slide through both the pads.

Its not a hard job - let us know how you get on

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21 minutes ago, Surebet said:

My car passed MOT with no advisories and I was hoping this was a sign all is well in this issue. After reading all the experienced members posts regarding the slide pins , I must admit I'm dreading having a look. Still waiting for slightly better weather to get the job tackled.

There is no need to dread it.

If you haven’t already got them do a search for Newbies excellent posts on servicing front and rear pads.Great write up and super photos. Once you’ve done it, it really is quite simple and straight forward.

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12 hours ago, is200 Newbie said:

It is a 19mm socket for the top bolt (the one that's shrouded in the rubber boot) Its an 8mm or H8 key for the bolt (was on my old 2007 model).... make sure tho before you buy as I am sure around 2007 the rear brakes were upgraded.

You may need to apply a bit of heat to remove the bolt it it wont budge - carefull in and around this area if doing so. Don't go gung ho and use a pair of pliers in the pin unless you know its moving.

Have you got the grease sorted? Nows a good time to also clean the two brake pad securing pins that slide through both the pads.

Its not a hard job - let us know how you get on

Got the grease sorted and have new brake securing pad pins as well.

Am just going in for an exploratory look.  If everything moves reasonably easily I will replace all the pins and sliders...if not will get garage to do it all and probably replace disks and pads at the same time as well.

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I did mine recently but made a slight faux pas when doing the fronts, so got the car jacked up and caliper off and secured with a bungee on coil spring and decide to turn the front wheel on full lock to gain better access to pin area. Start car for steering action ( you got it- Foot on brake pedal to start car!!!!! ) Instantly I realised then - Out comes caliper piston against Nothing! Dreaded the sight when I walked around but luckily it only travelled about 25mm!  Very slowly ( so as not to flip seal lip in master cylinder ) pushed back piston with a 'G' clamp. All good now and will check the condition of the pins again ( silicon grease used) in 6 months.

paul m.

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1 hour ago, Texas said:

I did mine recently but made a slight faux pas when doing the fronts, so got the car jacked up and caliper off and secured with a bungee on coil spring and decide to turn the front wheel on full lock to gain better access to pin area. Start car for steering action ( you got it- Foot on brake pedal to start car!!!!! ) Instantly I realised then - Out comes caliper piston against Nothing! Dreaded the sight when I walked around but luckily it only travelled about 25mm!  Very slowly ( so as not to flip seal lip in master cylinder ) pushed back piston with a 'G' clamp. All good now and will check the condition of the pins again ( silicon grease used) in 6 months.

paul m.

That was more than lucky........

I once changed the pads on my wife's car.  All done and dusted. Into car, start it up, down the drive way and brakes practically none existent...thought what!! 

Had actually forgotten to put the new pads in on the drivers side....oops!

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I can beat that :biggrin: Used to have a '65 Beetle with drums all round which needed regularly adjusting just so you could stop the damn thing. I was doing the rears, put the wheels back on to test, got halfway up the road and one of the wheels fell off. I'd forgotten to tighten the wheel nuts up. Luckily the wheel wedged under the wing and kept the car upright and all I needed was a new wing. Never found all the wheel nuts though.

I may have mentioned earlier in this thread that I know my limits!

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19 hours ago, normski2 said:

I thought it was 10 from memory. I’ve just looked on a website or 3 and they appear to indicate 8mm Allen key size and 19mm spanner for the other pin.

Here if you want to have a looksee

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/brake-systems-16456/brake-pads-shoes-16515/brake-caliper-bolt-pin-11261/2008/lexus/is250?sort=score+desc

Why not just get a metric set. They’ll come in handy for many tasks.

The slider pin takes a HEXm 10mm allen key.

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Well, well... can't trust the info on websites can you!!

I suppose I should not be that surprised ECP said (and so did many other sites) the Bosch S4 024 068 Battery would not fit my car. Wrong ... its a perfect fit. A year on and they still profess it does not fit.

Hope it all goes well for you. 

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Its worth a check regarding the size of the socket on the pin as I have an old rear caliper carrier in the garage with the pin attached and it is definitely an 8mm allen key or an H8 key socket. There are two different sizes of calipers on the 2007 model for some reason - one has vented discs and another has solid resulting in different calipers - sizes of the bolts may vary....

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Well weather was good today, decided to have a go at replacing rear pads and greasing slide pins. Have had the car for a year and although the pads would have probably done at least another 6-12 months thought I better have a look at the slide pins after reading other members issues with seized calipers. The gods must have been smiling on me today, all went well, slide pins cleaned and re-greased with red rubber grease and new pads fitted. Haven't fitted brake pads for over 20 years so I'm well chuffed. Thanks for all members instructions, certainly made the job easier to.  

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You say your caliper pins have been untouched for at least 12 months so what sort of state, may I ask, were they in when you stripped them down ( were they showing any signs of becoming siezed in any way?) and could you tell, from any remains, what type of grease may have been used last time?

having done it recently it is quite a straight forward operation and if it negates having to pay £100's for replacement calipers in the future then it is a job that I can live with doing repeatedly.

paul m.

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Its not so much a fact that the slide pins fail - its initially down to the rubbers failing which creates an opportunity for the weather and dirt to get into the recesses where the pins slide and then from there it rusts the pins up or creates a think gloop of grease which makes if difficult to remove them.

Water will get in and I would say the rubber seal on the boot to the caliper is not brilliant which emphasises the use of the correct compatible grease that will not attack the rubbers making it loose its elastaciity. Its important to make sure the groove on the caliper where the boot slips into is always cleaned when you are re-greasing the pins as it gives the rubbers a better chance of securing to the caliper. If they are not secure within these grooves then they will pop out and will definitely let water in and they wont last long. Possibly why some people that let the garages do them see their calipers sieze prematurely as do the garages really take car to that extent to ensure the boots are on correctly all the way around the groove....

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Hi Paul

Both pins on each caliper were in good condition, driver side caliper appeared to be very new so maybe had been replaced before I bought the car. The other caliper appeared to be original however no issues on removing it from the bottom slide pin. The grease remaining on the pins appeared black in colour, not having used red rubber grease before , I am unaware whether it turns black with age and the heat of the brakes. The pins that go through the pads on the passenger side had quite a bit of surface rust on them however came out with a bit of pulling with pliers. Cleaned with wire brush fitted to drill machine,  cleaned up good with no pitting evident. I only use my car at the weekends and always keep it the garage, only have done approximately 2500 miles since getting the car, so I'm probably not the best person to ask. 

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Off the back of this thread I’ve asked Lexus to lubricate my slider pins at my next service for which they’ll charge an hours labour.

Hopefully money well spent!


Sent from my Iphone using Tapatalk

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2 hours ago, Odysseus said:

Off the back of this thread I’ve asked Lexus to lubricate my slider pins at my next service for which they’ll charge an hours labour.

Hopefully money well spent!


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It will be......it is a perennial Toyota problem...I've had a Mr2, a Corolla T sport, Toyota Previa, the IS250 now and all have suffered from this problem......do other makes suffer??

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