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2007 Ls460 oil viscousity options


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I'm not sure what oil grade went into mine a few weeks ago when I bought it from an independent dealer. The manual states 0w20 as being the one best for fuel efficiency. But I see most online oil  sellers list 5w30, which is also mentioned in the manual. 

Does anyone notice any difference between the two options in terms of pricing of mpg? 

 

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I always use 0w20 oil in my GS450H. I also used it in my previous car a Prius. I have not done a millage comparison in the GS between 0w20 & 5w30, but in the Prius the difference in the fuel consumption I calculated paid for the oil using 0w20 in the 10,000 mile OCI.

In theory the savings should be more with the GS even though it holds nearly double the amount of oil to the Prius.

John.

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For what its worth, I was talking to the local Lexus Service Manager about this just last week. He said that it was OK to use ANY of the oils in the table at the back of the Owners Manual. Just pick the temperature range which suits you. 

He did, however, recommend the use of synthetic oil at all times.

My 460 has  done 80,000 miles and uses less than a litre of oil between annual services. Hope this helps.

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Hi

You might find a fuel economy benefit with 0w-20, but you might find that it will burn more oil with 0w-20 than 5w-30. It takes good ingredients to make a good oil that is also quite thin, so 0w-20 will always be synthetic. 5w-30s are generally synthetic, but there are occasional semis.

Cheers

Tim

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1 hour ago, oilman said:

Hi

You might find a fuel economy benefit with 0w-20, but you might find that it will burn more oil with 0w-20 than 5w-30. It takes good ingredients to make a good oil that is also quite thin, so 0w-20 will always be synthetic. 5w-30s are generally synthetic, but there are occasional semis.

Cheers

Tim

Thats good to know Tim, i think ill stick with the 5w30, it  seems cheaper to buy and better  availability in most places

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On 6/17/2018 at 5:11 PM, Tulpen said:

For what its worth, I was talking to the local Lexus Service Manager about this just last week. He said that it was OK to use ANY of the oils in the table at the back of the Owners Manual. Just pick the temperature range which suits you. 

He did, however, recommend the use of synthetic oil at all times.

My 460 has  done 80,000 miles and uses less than a litre of oil between annual services. Hope this helps.

I’m surprised it uses any oil at all, mine never uses any at 85,000 miles.

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On 6/18/2018 at 9:46 AM, oilman said:

Hi

You might find a fuel economy benefit with 0w-20, but you might find that it will burn more oil with 0w-20 than 5w-30. It takes good ingredients to make a good oil that is also quite thin, so 0w-20 will always be synthetic. 5w-30s are generally synthetic, but there are occasional semis.

Cheers

Tim

While talking about oils, what would you recommend for the rear diff? The manual calls out 75w85 LT GL5 fluid, even my local Lexus dealer doesnt stock that. Is there a compatible 75w90 oil you stock that is compatible with these lexus models?

Same with the ATF fluid? What would you recommend(Toyota ATF-WS)I think it needs about 10 liters for a full change

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Hi

We have 75w-85 GL5 oils, the Fuchs Sintopoid is a well proven option

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-982-fuchs-titan-sintopoid-fe-sae-75w-85-fully-synthetic-gear-oil.aspx

The Millers ATF SPIII and Fuchs ATF 4400 are good options for the gearbox.

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-1432-atf-automatic-transmission-fluid-for-cars.aspx

Cheers

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Steve,

my 400 didn't use any oil, either.  On the US 460 forum, they talk about 'up to 2 pints' being normal between services. I wonder what is different about the 460 engine.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

They also say 5w-30. There are reasons to change grade, such as higher engine temps (caused by modifications or high ambient temperatures) or wear leading to high oil consumption. An then there are the practical considerations of price and availability, 0w-20 is more expensive and harder to get hold of than 5w-30.

Cheers

Tim

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/20/2018 at 9:11 AM, oilman said:

Hi

We have 75w-85 GL5 oils, the Fuchs Sintopoid is a well proven option

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-982-fuchs-titan-sintopoid-fe-sae-75w-85-fully-synthetic-gear-oil.aspx

The Millers ATF SPIII and Fuchs ATF 4400 are good options for the gearbox.

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-1432-atf-automatic-transmission-fluid-for-cars.aspx

Cheers

Tim

Any ETA for stock of the Fuchs Sintopoid in 75w85? Its been out of stock recently.  Is there any other viscousity that can be used in the diff? 75w90 seems the most common one available 

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Hi

I think the Sintopoid FE will be back in about a week.

Yes, a 75w-90 is another good option.

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-673-75w-90-mtfs-manual-transmission-fluid.aspx

The Fuchs Syn 5, Millers CRX, Red Line 75w-90 GL5, Motul Gear 300, Amsoil Severe Gear and Gulf Competition are ideal for the diff. The Fuchs Sintopoid, Castrol Syntrax Longlife, Millers TRX, Motul Motylgear, Mobil SHC and Gulf Syngear are also good choices.

Cheers

Tim

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  • 4 weeks later...

on the subject of oils since we are all in europe brands and availability will be similar vs me posting in the US forums. I can probably get Mobil1 0W20 there is also Liqui Molly which is available here in Ukraine. What other non toyota synthetics are you guys using? Anyone using aftermarket filters the US forums AMSOIL EA Oil Filters EA15K49, but that is a pain to get here in Europe .... any suggestions?

 

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Both Mobil and Liqui Molly are good enough. In your funny part of Europe, I may suggest more focus on the dealer of oil (potential - fakes) than the oil. If you have a problem to find 0W20, 5W20 from valid source is better than nice discounted bottle of Castrol or Mobil 0W20 with Lukoil 15W40 inside.

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On 8/9/2018 at 9:47 AM, Ben01 said:

Both Mobil and Liqui Molly are good enough. In your funny part of Europe, I may suggest more focus on the dealer of oil (potential - fakes) than the oil. If you have a problem to find 0W20, 5W20 from valid source is better than nice discounted bottle of Castrol or Mobil 0W20 with Lukoil 15W40 inside.

I wont be going to a stealership here I would buy the oil myself from some place and go to a reputable 3rd party to get it done.

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The difference in price is about £20 for 5 litres. The engine cost £5,000 to replace. Surely £20 a year extra is not too much to pay?

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...
On 8/30/2018 at 8:59 PM, desperatedano said:

So you are saying  5w30 will cause engine failure? I highly doubt that, considering it is listed in the owners manual as compatible with our cars 

Previous owner used 5W30 I did not notice any oil use. I switched to 0W20 and I’ve driven maybe close to 3000 US miles since 5th Oct 2018. And I just checked the oil today it is a hair above the first hole. Which is basically saying it’s low. So there’s much more oil consumption. 

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  • 1 year later...

I am about to change the oil in my GS450H. I was using 0w20, but iI am changing to 0w16. Not the reason for going to 0w16, but I find it cheaper than 0w20. Most manufacturers say it will give even better ware protection, and better fuel economy. If the manufacturers figures are true the saving in fuel between oil changes will more than pay for the oil.
Using 0w20 in my engine at 145,000 miles did not show any increase in oil consumption that at worst is minimal dropping only slightly on the dipstick between 10,000 mile OCI. If my oil consumption doubles using 0w16 I can live with that as it will still not require topping up between oil changes.
My oil usage is zero at the moment with the car SORNed for the duration of Corona.

As far as oil filters go I cannot understand why Toyota/Lexus still use the replacement paper element filter or the fact that they are more expensive than the metal can type of filter. After all the can type still has the paper element inside plus a non return/drain back valve that is missing in the paper version, and must be more expensive to produce. Or is this a case of rip off Britain again?

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I am also surprised by paper elements. It may be an environmental issue. After all, X million old oil filters are a lot of waste and given the oil, paper, metal combination, must be a nightmare to recycle. One good thing about the old filters, was that you could see 1).  the brand 2). that it had actually been done at a garage 3). it is idiot proof, no 'O' ring seal to ***** up. Try doing that with a canister paper one.

All the more reason to do your own.

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