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Hi,

I’ve had my 2006 GS450h for about 4 months now and have so far been really pleased with it, however I do have a few things I’d like to pick your brains about, here goes.

When braking I’m getting quite a strong shuddering from the front of the car and through the steering wheel, I suspect possible warped discs, what do you guys think?

Occasionally when you hit certain bumps in the road or speed bumps I’m getting a bang or knock from the OSR of the car. I’m worried it might need new rear shocks which I know are expensive!!!

I’ve noticed that the near side headlight sometimes works fine, sometimes it’s quite dim and occasionally doesn’t work at all!!! Do you think it needs a New HID bulb, are these cheap and easy on these?

I think the NSF alloy may need attention as it is allowing air to escape from the tyres (it takes about a month or about 500 miles from topping up the pressure to the TPMS light indicating a fault).

Finally, the near side main beam bulb and sidelight bulbs need replacing, are these easy to get at to change yourself?

Many thanks for any help or input.

 

 

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Sorry to hear of your troubles Martin. Hope the following helps:

Brakes - could be the dreaded sticky calipers.

Headlights - Mine started to go intermittent one one side but all was sorted via a new set of bulbs from ebay (I changed both sides). Loads of videos on YouTube - can be a little tricky but take your time and have a little patience and it's a DIY job. These are the ones I got: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-D4S-Genuine-LUNEX-XENON-BULB-6000K-compatible-with-XenEco-42402-Xenarc-66440/291780531328?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Alloy/leaking pressure  - Could just need the tyre reseated and the alloy itself cleaned up a little. Remember years ago my IS200 did this. I got the local tyre fitters to take the tyre off, clean up all the old gunk, bits of rubber, etc. from the inside of the rim (paying particular attention to the inside edges) and all was OK after that.

 

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Break shudder could be pad material deposited on the discs. Try a few hard stops from high speed to see if it clears up.

Headlamp, check any earth connection for loose or corroded terminals.

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  1. The GS450h Headlight bulb problem is well documented here - a member found the electrical contact within the bulb socket corrodes creating a bad connection - swapping the bulbs over normally cures this problem.
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Hi Martin, my GS had the same judder when I picked it up and I also initially presumed it was warped disks.

However after an MOT the judder was gone and I can only presume that the brake test cleaned up the rotors and removed any deposits that build up through low use and the hybrid brakes doing most of the work.  As the car is automatic it also sits stationary on the brakes for a while which I think contributes to the build up on pad material on the disk.  Periodic spirited use of the brakes resolves the juddering for me, as suggested by others - so is definitely worth a try. 

I've since changed the disks/pads all round (my rears where in a shocking state) and the judder still returns from time to time.  So you shouldn't get yourself new disk/pads without first trying some 'Italian tune up' tactics.

I want to test how the various modes affect the hydraulic brakes as I'm sure Sport uses the electric motors more vigorously, which means the disks get less of a work out. 

What tyres and tyre pressures are you running?  In the firm Sport setting I've found that a few psi lower results in a better/less crashy ride, i think i may be at 28psi now but I need to double check this.

Loosing tyre pressure could be an issue with the bead seating against the rim or be a leaky valve, the TPMS valves aren't nipped up very much.  Throw on some soapy water and take a close look at the valve/rim for any leaks.  Although if it's a really slow leak, then you may not see any bubbles for a while...

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4 hours ago, Farqui said:

Hi Martin, my GS had the same judder when I picked it up and I also initially presumed it was warped disks.

However after an MOT the judder was gone and I can only presume that the brake test cleaned up the rotors and removed any deposits that build up through low use and the hybrid brakes doing most of the work.  As the car is automatic it also sits stationary on the brakes for a while which I think contributes to the build up on pad material on the disk.  Periodic spirited use of the brakes resolves the juddering for me, as suggested by others - so is definitely worth a try. 

I've since changed the disks/pads all round (my rears where in a shocking state) and the judder still returns from time to time.  So you shouldn't get yourself new disk/pads without first trying some 'Italian tune up' tactics.

I want to test how the various modes affect the hydraulic brakes as I'm sure Sport uses the electric motors more vigorously, which means the disks get less of a work out. 

What tyres and tyre pressures are you running?  In the firm Sport setting I've found that a few psi lower results in a better/less crashy ride, i think i may be at 28psi now but I need to double check this.

Loosing tyre pressure could be an issue with the bead seating against the rim or be a leaky valve, the TPMS valves aren't nipped up very much.  Throw on some soapy water and take a close look at the valve/rim for any leaks.  Although if it's a really slow leak, then you may not see any bubbles for a while...

Lee. Using neutral forces 100% of the hydraulic braking system as the two motor generators are electrically disconnected in this mode. This is the best way to clean up the discs, and pads.

This is also why the car should not be left in neutral, and ready mode. If the engine is not running already when put in neutral it cannot start, and therefore cannot charge the HV Battery. If the AC is on this will quickly discharge, and have no power to charge the 12 volt Battery so this also becomes discharged.

If left for too long the HV Battery will not have enough power to start the engine, and an external charge is then required.

John.

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I had a leaky rim & was fixed with a tyre off clean up at my local Kwik Fit.

I also had the same HID problem & again was fixed with a new set of Osrams from eBay I also replace bulbs in pairs as a rule.

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Cheers for your help. I’ll try giving the brakes a good work out, there are some decent long hills near me to try them on. I’ll take the car to my local tyre shop to see if they can clean up the wheels for me. Headlights have been fine today.

I’m still a bit concerned by the occasional knock or bang from the rear suspension.

Also, tonight I have a new problem!!! It was a bit chilly on the way home from work tonight so I put the heater on (it’s the first time I’ve really used the heater as I bought the car in May and with the huge heatwave we had this summer I’ve only used the AC). When the car is coasting or running at low revs the heater blows cold and only blows warm air when accelerating at high revs then when you ease off it gradually cools down again. The temp needle is sitting exactly half way up the gauge where it should be. I’m going to check the coolant level tomorrow in daylight and when the engine is cold. Any ideas?

Thanks once again for your help!!!

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What interior temps were set?

Were you running dual cabin temps?

My passenger vents tend to blow colder than the drivers at the same temps up to about 23c. Beyond that the passenger then gets warm/hot, which os higher than the drivers side.

I have checked all the heater servos and heater box controls all work as expected.

My indi did suggest that mismatched heater outputs could indicate that the AC may need a recharge. I haven't followed up on this as the AC works really well.

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Quick update...

I checked the coolant level and it was indeed low in the expansion tank, I’m surprised the car doesn’t tell you when it goes below the min level, Anyway I topped it up to the max line with correct Toyota coolant. That seemed to fix the heater problem, however, tonight it went back cold again so I went back to the expansion tank to find it back low again!!! This is after about a day and around 40 miles driving. I’m going to top it up again when the engine has cooled down. One thing I did notice on the expansion tank cap is that there is a small pipe on the right hand side of it a few inches long which isn’t connected to anything, is that how it should be?

I’ve been trying to do a bit of “spirited” braking where possible to try and improve the brake judder/wobble but so far to no avail!!!

I’ve yet to tackle the headlight although it’s been ok the last couple of days, the nearside main beam and sidelight bulbs both need replacing, they look hard to get at though, has anybody here done those bulbs DIY and was it easy enough?

I haven’t had chance to get the alloys cleaned up yet at the tyre shop but will do as soon as I can.

Cheers everybody.

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Regarding the brakes I found a couple of hard braking from 70 to 30 on a motorway slip road did the trick. Just make sure there's no one behind you! 

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I had a coolant leak on my BMW E60 & it turned out to be a small leak where the pipe goes into the engine (rubber grommet) so don't panic yet.

Sidelight bulb is on a stick & visible once you removed the engine covers you just twist it & pull it out, main beam is easy too there are many guides on Youtube:

 

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If you’re fitting new discs, make sure the hubs are properly cleaned up first.

 

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Come on Martin, you know it's just a matter of time before you're back in a V8, you may as well get it over with.  I only lasted 6 months.

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Well, it looks like I have a leaky radiator!!! I saw some coolant on the ground when I parked the car up today. I got down on my hands and knees with my Iphone torch and could see drips from 3 places along where the rad sits, due to the under covers fitted I couldn’t see the exact location of the leak. Is the radiator an expensive job on these cars? It soon stopped dripping after I switched the car off.

Thing is, the car is driving fine and not overheating at the moment although I’m bloody cold driving it because of no heater and typically the weather is getting cold this week, do you think if I drive it gently topping up as necessary for the next few days it will be ok? I can’t get it fixed until at least Friday as I’m at work everyday until then and need the car for that and I don’t have a spare car or car I can borrow.

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If I were you I would check from where it is exactly leaks. Maybe it is a loose connection and whole pipe can slide off. 

3 tips:

- Don't try to add any leak fix magic stuff as you will need to flush whole system afterwards

- Don't add plain water 

- Put some coolant into the car and have it with you just in case

 

I believe you should be fine till Friday but be careful and observe.

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Also double check it's not just condensate dripping from the a/c drain.

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Just a few ideas and comments.

Sorry to say, but the clonking from the rear while under load and/or cornering is something I too experienced in my GS450, which turned out to be an offside rear shock absorber.  Mine was replaced under warranty but the Lexus website tells me a replacement is £445, fitted.

With regards to your cool air, it could be that the blend doors are stuck or sticking.  On a trip to the seaside on January 2nd this year (so not exactly balmy conditions) my wife complained the vents on the passenger side were blowing cool air despite the temperature being set quite high.  I "fixed" this by setting both the temperatures all the way up to 'HI', then one side all the way down to 'LOW' then swapped it round so 'HI' and 'LOW' were set the other way round.  This means the doors in the guts of the heating/cooling system are using the full extent of their movement, and I haven't had the problem since.

As the weather cools I'll see if the problem recurs, but it's easy thing for you to try.

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