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Transmission mount replacement. Ls400


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Hi all. I changed out the transmission mount on my 98 ls400 today. Pretty easy job and only took 10 mins or so. Seems to have made quite a big difference to the car though, most of the vibrations at idle are gone and so have my vibration at 50-60mph. 

Used OEM part from USA eBay. Some pics for comparison new/old. The old mount was very compressed and cracking and I had to lift the transmission up to get the new mount in so it's all aligned better now I suppose. 

IMG_20180927_093534885.jpg

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1 hour ago, The-Acre said:

What a difference!  Just out of interest, did you find that as you took your foot off the accelerator there was a brief vibration?

Yes I did have that especially when slowing from motorway speeds. I have to say I didn't notice it today but will look out for it to see if it's gone. I still need to do my engine mounts but this has made quite a noticeable difference and it's so easy to change! 

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9 hours ago, Matt1986 said:

Yes I did have that especially when slowing from motorway speeds. I have to say I didn't notice it today but will look out for it to see if it's gone. I still need to do my engine mounts but this has made quite a noticeable difference and it's so easy to change! 

That's interesting. The reason I ask is that when I had my GS and was driving at speed in Germany there was always a slight vibration when I decelerated which I thought felt like a mount. I never noticed it at "normal" speeds.

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Yes I only tended to notice it when lifting off the accelerator at speed. I think with these mounts it's best to go OEM. Although not totally broken (I think) I'll be changing my engine mounts at some point, although this is a much more difficult job! I really want to get it back to as close to new feeling as possible. 

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1 hour ago, Matt1986 said:

Yes I only tended to notice it when lifting off the accelerator at speed. I think with these mounts it's best to go OEM. Although not totally broken (I think) I'll be changing my engine mounts at some point, although this is a much more difficult job! I really want to get it back to as close to new feeling as possible. 

I've just been fitting new discs and pads on the front of my Celsior and I couldn't help noticing the LCA bushes look a bit sad.  Surprising how a lump of rubber can transform a car!

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7 hours ago, The-Acre said:

I've just been fitting new discs and pads on the front of my Celsior and I couldn't help noticing the LCA bushes look a bit sad.  Surprising how a lump of rubber can transform a car!

If you are talking about the front lower ones ( big) ones - try pushing your finger into them - if soft i.e finger goes in then they are worn - new bushes are hard 

hth

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2 hours ago, cruisermark said:

If you are talking about the front lower ones ( big) ones - try pushing your finger into them - if soft i.e finger goes in then they are worn - new bushes are hard 

hth

It's this one.

 

IMG_20180928_100918500.jpg

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3 minutes ago, Connor2x4 said:

How much did this cost if you don't mind us asking?

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 

That's a good question. I only did the discs yesterday so it's a job to get priced up this coming week.  I'm not sure yet but looking at parts available it seems at least that this bush is possible to buy as a separate item, but I could be wrong.

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That's a good question. I only did the discs yesterday so it's a job to get priced up this coming week.  I'm not sure yet but looking at parts available it seems at least that this bush is possible to buy as a separate item, but I could be wrong.
I've seen aftermarket arms with bushes in but always hear they wear out quickly (ie 2 years instead of the 20 or so oem ones last)

For me I'd be happier buying new bushes and have the arms powder coated or painted and push the new bushes in myself, but haven't seen any oem bushes on their own. Was thinking about polybushes but I know they can make the ride quite a bit stiffer at the cost of not needing to change them again for a long time

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

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On 9/30/2018 at 12:25 PM, cruisermark said:

They are in eBay £160 a pair - basically new bushes fitted in used carriers - u simply remove the 2 bolts and replace - I believe you send your bushes back to get a refund 

I've gone for just the bushes at £45 the pair.  The mechanic will press the new ones in and replace the anti roll bar bushes while he's at it.  He's thoroughly checked all the other bushes and joints and all is fine.  The work will be done next week hopefully.

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1 hour ago, cruisermark said:

Why are you replacing the ARBs?

Simply because they're cheap and it's a quick job. I thought I may as well have it done while it's raised up.  Presumably they've been on the car all these years so I think it makes sense.  Actually it was the mechanics suggestion but I think a good one, the parts are only £19.

A little edit:  I'm going to take a good look at the radiator to see if it looks OK.  Because there isn't any corrosion anywhere I may leave it but I will check.  Either way, because it's a Japanese spec it means it can be replaced with an aftermarket one without the need for modification which is helpful.

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  • 3 months later...

Matt... aware of your other thread...'Keep. Scrap. or Save' thread. I was going to order a transmission mount, but now re-reading your other thread, it sounds like the transmission mount replacement did not cure your vibration issues after all? Or did it help a bit?

Cheers. Stu

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On 10/6/2018 at 9:28 AM, The-Acre said:

Simply because they're cheap and it's a quick job. I thought I may as well have it done while it's raised up.  Presumably they've been on the car all these years so I think it makes sense.  Actually it was the mechanics suggestion but I think a good one, the parts are only £19.

A little edit:  I'm going to take a good look at the radiator to see if it looks OK.  Because there isn't any corrosion anywhere I may leave it but I will check.  Either way, because it's a Japanese spec it means it can be replaced with an aftermarket one without the need for modification which is helpful.

Be very careful about "leaving it" as I think the trans oil pipe runs through the bottom header of the radiator and its this unseen bit that fails and oil and water are mixed.  Maybe the coolant with corrosion inhibitors should be changed every couple years. You can see the two pipes from the g/box entering the bottom header at either end looking from above the rad.  I remember my1968 P6 Rover 2000 TC having the same arrangement. 

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