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Hi,

I've recently picked up an RX400h, though it needs a few bits doing.  I was hoping someone might be able to offer a bit of experience!

1 - The reverse camera comes 'on', but only shows static where the picture should be (has the coloured lines, just grey fuzz from the camera).  I believe this could be a connection, so I'll check that out.
2 - It has the 6 CD Mark Levinson - it doesn't seem to think it has any CDs loaded, but trying to push a CD into the slot does nothing (there's resistance as if the slot isn't a slot..)
3 - I'm pretty sure the parking brake has no effect at all.
4 - I have a bit of a 'twang' on the rear over bumps. It's possibly a bit crashy, and sounds/feels like something loose in the boot.  I'm assuming maybe a bush/mount, but wondered if this is anything obvious?

Those are the main 'issues'.  I also have a few questions around the RX itself:

- I'm guessing that any lines that don't show on the power screen are maybe a few dead cells or something (shows around 80%).  Or is that just the standard visualisation?
- Ideally, I'd like to add some ability to play music from my phone.  I have read a bit that suggests an aftermarket stereo isn't so easy to do, and I want to avoid using an FM transmitter, so saw you can get various aux kits that use the CD Change port - does the 6 CD Mark Levinson have this?  I'm completely assuming it's a head unit loading changer, rather than there being another elsewhere in the car (as that would be otherwise obvious!)

 

I'd appreciate any knowledge transfer at all with these!

 

Thanks in advance

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Hi Chris and congrats on your new motor. I can't answer everything but I can help in a small way.

1. Probably a connection but even if it's the camera itself it can be replaced for about £10 from China via eBay. Someone posted a topic on doing just that very thing a while ago so you should be able to find it with a search.

2. You can't just push a CD in the slot, you have to press the 'Load' button and that then opens the slot for the discs to go in (or at least that was how my non-ML CD worked in my RX300 when I had it.

3. It's possible that it's seized.

The Battery power screen - we, as the users of the car, never get full access to all the traction Battery's capacity. If I remember correctly we get to use about 70 or 80% of the full capacity and it's done this way to ensure that the Battery has a long life. If we could fully charge and discharge it, it would very soon give up the ghost.

Anyway, given that, the indicator on screen shows us the state of charge of 'our' part of the Battery that we get to use. I'm not sure about the 400h but my 450h is divided into eight blue bars. If it gets as low as the last two bars they change from blue to purple and the engine fires up to start charging it. There have been occasions when the indicator has had all eight bars lit up blue, indicating that the traction Battery (or our part of it) is fully charged, usually after a long downhill stretch of road, but in normal day-to-day driving it rarely shows full.

Hope that helps a bit.

EDIT: Here you go:

 

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49 minutes ago, Herbie said:

Hi Chris and congrats on your new motor. I can't answer everything but I can help in a small way.

1. Probably a connection but even if it's the camera itself it can be replaced for about £10 from China via eBay. Someone posted a topic on doing just that very thing a while ago so you should be able to find it with a search.

2. You can't just push a CD in the slot, you have to press the 'Load' button and that then opens the slot for the discs to go in (or at least that was how my non-ML CD worked in my RX300 when I had it.

3. It's possible that it's seized.

The Battery power screen - we, as the users of the car, never get full access to all the traction Battery's capacity. If I remember correctly we get to use about 70 or 80% of the full capacity and it's done this way to ensure that the Battery has a long life. If we could fully charge and discharge it, it would very soon give up the ghost.

Anyway, given that, the indicator on screen shows us the state of charge of 'our' part of the Battery that we get to use. I'm not sure about the 400h but my 450h is divided into eight blue bars. If it gets as low as the last two bars they change from blue to purple and the engine fires up to start charging it. There have been occasions when the indicator has had all eight bars lit up blue, indicating that the traction Battery (or our part of it) is fully charged, usually after a long downhill stretch of road, but in normal day-to-day driving it rarely shows full.

Great stuff - thanks.

I've had a look on the web, and it seems that the Battery screen thing is quite common to be at 80% ish.  I thought it might be normal, as it lines up perfectly with the terminal symbols on the cluster display (seemed like a OCD design 😁)

I'll check the CD player again tomorrow - sounds unusual, but that's Japanese tech for you!  

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My update for today:

Managed to load a CD (thanks to @Herbie )

Noticed the window buttons on the driver's door only worked for the driver's window.  Found a post about resetting them, and managed to get the passenger rear working, but not sure how and can't "reset" the others (tried putting the window down on them, then holding up on the drivers' one).  I'll try again on the weekend though.

Also, not sure if my lights are a little too high - what sort of height should I expect the top of the visible beam to be?

Still can't track the source of the weird rattle/twang.  Suspect it might be the plastic cover for the spare wheel, but not sure why, or how I'd resolve it

 

Found this in the glovebox, which I assume is some sort of iPod connector?  (I'm not an apple person)

FNUT7fe.jpg

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On 11/16/2018 at 6:53 PM, engine said:

Also, not sure if my lights are a little too high - what sort of height should I expect the top of the visible beam to be?

Still can't track the source of the weird rattle/twang.  Suspect it might be the plastic cover for the spare wheel, but not sure why, or how I'd resolve it

Found this in the glovebox, which I assume is some sort of iPod connector?  (I'm not an apple person)

The lights on mine are going up to just under the number plate of normal hatchbacks in front of me - if this helps.  I think the idea is that they come up to a straight line from the level of the light unit.  For what it's worth, I think they are just a tad low when driving around dark rural lanes.

The rattle could be like the one I have.  I took the innards of the boot apart and cushioned them with tape and what not but to no avail.  There is this particular noise that comes, specially at very low speeds and driving in and out of my drive that's driving me nuts.  A sort of Mr Bean 'wibble' that happens a few times in quick succession.  I've removed the spare wheel cover and put some padding tape inside it - didn't really help.  Drove it without the spare cover and that didn't help much.  Have had a mirror stick underneath the car and seen the various undercarriage covers, AND have actually noticed a couple of loose/missing fasteners.  My latest theory - it's one of the covers making this noise.  But I would also like to drive without the spare first to see if that helps.  Problem now is I'm parking up for a while so it'll have to wait.

I'd find out if the iPod connector works - since you could always put in an android converter and have a coveted Aux In!

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7 minutes ago, BachelorDays said:

The lights on mine are going up to just under the number plate of normal hatchbacks in front of me - if this helps.  I think the idea is that they come up to a straight line from the level of the light unit.  For what it's worth, I think they are just a tad low when driving around dark rural lanes

I think my self levelling sensor needs some attention, then - I'd say the top of the visible beam is at the roof height of approaching traffic.  

No one has particularly flashed me or anything, but I've been very conscious that they are too high.

 

7 minutes ago, BachelorDays said:

The rattle could be like the one I have.  I took the innards of the boot apart and cushioned them with tape and what not but to no avail.  There is this particular noise that comes, specially at very low speeds and driving in and out of my drive that's driving me nuts.  A sort of Mr Bean 'wibble' that happens a few times in quick succession.  I've removed the spare wheel cover and put some padding tape inside it - didn't really help.  Drove it without the spare cover and that didn't help much.  Have had a mirror stick underneath the car and seen the various undercarriage covers, AND have actually noticed a couple of loose/missing fasteners.  My latest theory - it's one of the covers making this noise.  But I would also like to drive without the spare first to see if that helps.  Problem now is I'm parking up for a while so it'll have to wait.

I'd probably describe mine as sounding like a diving board being jumped on.  The "wibble" thing made me chuckle - I instantly thought of Edmund Blackadder, rather than Mr Bean, though.

 

 

7 minutes ago, BachelorDays said:

I'd find out if the iPod connector works - since you could always put in an android converter and have a coveted Aux In!

I've got a few bits on order, so I'll see what works and report back

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Best of luck.

Captain Blackadder, of course!  Why do I keep saying Mr Bean?

 

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On 11/15/2018 at 8:47 PM, engine said:

Hi,

I've recently picked up an RX400h, though it needs a few bits doing.  I was hoping someone might be able to offer a bit of experience!

1 - The reverse camera comes 'on', but only shows static where the picture should be (has the coloured lines, just grey fuzz from the camera).  I believe this could be a connection, so I'll check that out.
2 - It has the 6 CD Mark Levinson - it doesn't seem to think it has any CDs loaded, but trying to push a CD into the slot does nothing (there's resistance as if the slot isn't a slot..)
3 - I'm pretty sure the parking brake has no effect at all.
4 - I have a bit of a 'twang' on the rear over bumps. It's possibly a bit crashy, and sounds/feels like something loose in the boot.  I'm assuming maybe a bush/mount, but wondered if this is anything obvious?

Those are the main 'issues'.  I also have a few questions around the RX itself:

- I'm guessing that any lines that don't show on the power screen are maybe a few dead cells or something (shows around 80%).  Or is that just the standard visualisation?
- Ideally, I'd like to add some ability to play music from my phone.  I have read a bit that suggests an aftermarket stereo isn't so easy to do, and I want to avoid using an FM transmitter, so saw you can get various aux kits that use the CD Change port - does the 6 CD Mark Levinson have this?  I'm completely assuming it's a head unit loading changer, rather than there being another elsewhere in the car (as that would be otherwise obvious!)

 

I'd appreciate any knowledge transfer at all with these!

 

Thanks in advance

Hi Engine.

 I too have just acquired a 2006 RX400h, and am sitting out various bits and pieces.

The lack of Bluetooth music is annoying, I agree... But I've opted for an FM transmitter as a stop-gap, if nothing else, because I've got plenty to keep me busy, and pulling out the stereo is not something I want to add to the list right now 😁 ... Actually pretty good, unless there's interference.

 

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6 hours ago, Farnham Dave said:

Hi Engine.

 I too have just acquired a 2006 RX400h, and am sitting out various bits and pieces.

The lack of Bluetooth music is annoying, I agree... But I've opted for an FM transmitter as a stop-gap, if nothing else, because I've got plenty to keep me busy, and pulling out the stereo is not something I want to add to the list right now 😁 ... Actually pretty good, unless there's interference.

I have used them before, and don't particularly rate them for the interference etc.

I have bought two different solutions:  One, being an iPod to aux connector, although I can't find how to actually get this to work (if it does at all).  Two, being a tape player aux lead, which works quite well (preferable to an FM transmitter, if you can live with an aux in 3.5mm), and was only £5.

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I have an older iPod connected to a lead like yours you have in the glovebox. it is left permanently on and is controlled from the steering wheel switches. Much better than the CD player.

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1 hour ago, Sherra said:

I have an older iPod connected to a lead like yours you have in the glovebox. it is left permanently on and is controlled from the steering wheel switches. Much better than the CD player.

Ah ok.  I'm going to try a few different leads and see if I can't "convert" it to USB or Aux in.

I tend to rely on YouTube music streamed onto my phone, rather than choosing specific tracks/downloads.

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2 hours ago, engine said:

Ah ok.  I'm going to try a few different leads and see if I can't "convert" it to USB or Aux in.

I'd be surprised if you couldn't - but if there is an issue I'd get to the back of the player and see what is plugged in to provide this connection.  Could be an easier switch at that point.

Just be careful and don't have the key in the ignition when you are dismantling or putting it all back.

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14 hours ago, engine said:

I have used them before, and don't particularly rate them for the interference etc.

I thought the same after using one in my V70s but then I bought one of these for the RX and it's excellent.

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Hi, I just brought a RX 400x x 2007. When I picked it up it had knock in the boot area and after checking the MOT and Lexus paperwork I found that according a free courtesy check completed on it’s previous service saying “knock in rear probably coming from loose spare wheel” but no it was bearing on F/s rear wheel. Plan for worse hope for best 😂 

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2 hours ago, Keith Hawkes said:

Hi, I just brought a RX 400x x 2007. When I picked it up it had knock in the boot area and after checking the MOT and Lexus paperwork I found that according a free courtesy check completed on it’s previous service saying “knock in rear probably coming from loose spare wheel” but no it was bearing on F/s rear wheel. Plan for worse hope for best 😂 /

hi Keith, sorry, I'm not clear on your knock (it's probably me).  Are you saying the knock was from your O/S rear wheel bearing?

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I had a noise from the rear end that was in some ways like those described above.  Lexus dealer traced it to a sort of planished very lightweight heat shield whose mounting holes had half worn away.  They said it was common, and would cost about £400 to replace but they said they have simply removed plenty of them and had no problems.  That was about 40k miles ago and I certainly haven't had any.

Mike

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14 hours ago, welland said:

hi Keith, sorry, I'm not clear on your knock (it's probably me).  Are you saying the knock was from your O/S rear wheel bearing?

The bushes , one on the cross member was a little loose so it may have been that but wasn’t but the bush on the offside rear wheel that was the problem. 

Smooth and quite now. 

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I'm planning on sorting some bits on the weekend, as I have some parts come through.

 

I think the ARB definitely needs a drop link or a bush, as it has the 'potting snooker balls' sound on laterally uneven roads, so I have some to put on - but it's almost like when you hit a bump, the NSR wheel "spasms" a bit - like a weird wheelspin feeling when you hit a hard bump.  I'll check it out fully with the wheel in the air, but it is quite peculiar

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3 hours ago, engine said:

I'm planning on sorting some bits on the weekend, as I have some parts come through.

 

I think the ARB definitely needs a drop link or a bush, as it has the 'potting snooker balls' sound on laterally uneven roads, so I have some to put on - but it's almost like when you hit a bump, the NSR wheel "spasms" a bit - like a weird wheelspin feeling when you hit a hard bump.  I'll check it out fully with the wheel in the air, but it is quite peculiar

I have a worn rear ARB bush which is causing an annoying clunk.  In theory, replacing a bush should be one of the easiest maintenance jobs, but rusted bolts put paid to that idea.  Go carefully, in case a bolt shears.  Unfortunately the nuts are welded on - otherwise It would be easy to replace with a new nut and bolt.  

Edited by welland
Clarity
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A mini update...

My self-levelling headlight sensor arm looked like this, on inspection:

gNS6K80.jpg

(yes, the bit 'pointing up' is sheared and is supposed to be 'pointing down', or at least connected to the bit that's to the right of it!)

So my headlights were on maximum height and obviously going to be blinding everyone.  Worse thing being Xenon, in conjunction with the height issue.

 

I temporarily made a little splint to fix it in the short term, as I was going away for a week or so..

k44UPfU.jpg

 

Having seen the costs of replacement, I pulled my finger out and fixed it for less than £2:

2bNIiCp.jpg

 

Then refitted it for now.  I gave the threaded bar a spray of copper grease after the photo, as it may well still need some adjustmentPjfkArx.jpg

 

I also replaced the NSR drop link and ARB bush, which has removed the ARB knock, but there's still something a bit worn on that side, only noticeable on a pothole/similar.  May well be a bush on one of the rods, but it's less of a priority for now.

 

I also finally got the camera working, but it involved a lot of trail/error.

The first few attempts were using some rear dash cam cameras I had kicking about.  The first one worked for a while, then stopped responding.  The second one worked, of sorts, but seemed to only output in B&W, and with a "bad vertical hold" kind of effect on the screen, which was a bit weird:

7r2Uw71.jpg

 

I ended up ordering another from amazon, which I fitted tonight with more success.  May need some tweaks and a tidier install. but it's now the correct image and in colour:

IKP36DW.jpg
(That's a bit of the drive and the garage door visible)

So not bad for £10 or so.  Certainly a lot cheaper than a Lexus one.   I'm not sure why the first two had such an odd effect, possibly the difference between using PAL and NTSC.  Who knows.  Despite the other link suggesting so, I completely removed the old camera.  The new one takes +12v and ground from the NSR reverse bulb, and provides signal via the yellow wire.  The original black, red and white wires are snipped.

 

Also managed to get the parking brake working.  The old shoes were passable for now - the discs were a bit lipped inside though, so I adjusted what was there for now and will think about replacing the shoes (which I have) and pads (which I have) when I get a new pair of discs to stick on.

9VKELdk.jpg

 

 

I'm guessing the rods that connect to the hub (one just visible above) are connected to pressed in bushes?  I'm considering changing them over at a point (for the bump/reverb over potholes) but can't quite see them on this diagram https://lexus-europe.epc-data.com/rx400h/mhu38r/5163/chassis/4804/?partno=9017912091

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Great work! 

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Great photos and write up.  

Any idea why the headlamp self levelling adjuster was broken? If it hadn't seized, then I would suspect that it is not under a high load.  

Does it require manual calibration?  I must look at mine, as I feel the dipped beam is on the low side.  Mine can't have broken like yours, as it's just passed the mot.   

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Engine,

How did you get on with the bolts on the rear ARB bushes? Did they come undone without shearing?

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I had the local Lexus garage do it. They did call me during the day to say they couldn’t move the bolts and would have to put heat or burn but heating only did the job thank goodness 

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3 hours ago, Keith Hawkes said:

I had the local Lexus garage do it. They did call me during the day to say they couldn’t move the bolts and would have to put heat or burn but heating only did the job thank goodness 

Phew! Engine?

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