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Rarely do mechanical components last forever.

Engine oil only lubricates engine internals - not external accessories. If you can unbolt an item without oil leaking out, it's not being lubricated with engine oil. (eg even the water pump).

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Thanks John. I was refering to compressor having oil inside it.

 

Is there a way I can find out the paet number for the compressor? I want to cross check.

 

 

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There is no visible or measurable oil in the compressor. It's a mist carried in the gas.

I don't have any part number references - someone here pops up with them sometimes. I don't think there will have been any changes in the first five years or so.

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Ok.

And what are your toughts on heating? Isn't AC independent of heating? I am thinking of turning on heating with low settings to keep windscreen mist away.

Just wondering if I can travel tomorrow.

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A/C isn't actually essential - we've only really had it for 20 years or so.

You can use the heating as much or little as you like.

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Found this diagram of the belt routing.

image.png

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Ah - I was wrong about visible/measureable oil in the compressor.

This is the last step in assembly of the compressor /when fitting a new one.

Quote:

 

3. ADJUST COMPRESSOR OIL
  1. When replacing the compressor and magnetic clutch with a new one, gradually discharge the refrigerant gas from the service valve, and drain the following amount of oil from the new compressor and magnetic clutch before installation.

     

    Standard:
    (Oil capacity inside the new compressor and magnetic clutch: 130 + 15 cc (4.6 + 0.51 fl.oz.) ) -(Remaining oil amount in the removed compressor and magnetic clutch) = (Oil amount to be removed from the new compressor when replacing)

     

     

    NOTICE:
     
    1. When checking the compressor oil level, observe the precautions on the cooler removal/installation.
    2. If a new compressor and magnetic clutch is installed without removing some oil remaining in the pipes of the vehicle, the oil amount will be too large. This prevents heat exchange in the refrigerant cycle and causes refrigerant failure.
    3. If the volume of oil remaining in the removed compressor and magnetic clutch is too small, check for oil leakage.
    4. Be sure to use ND-OIL 8 or equivalent for compressor oil.

     

     

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11 hours ago, Texas said:

Found this diagram of the belt routing.

image.png

In theory it looks like you could 'bypass' the AC compressor pulley with the belt run, but actually in practice it may not be possible. And working out what size (Length) belt would be suitable is another thing unless you own an auto spares shop! most belts have their length in mm included in the part number, and this one is prob over 1000mmm!

Note when refitting, the 'idler' wheel and 'Tensioner' wheel run against the 'back' or smooth side of the belt and the pulleys themselfs run against the polyvee side. 

Info. A 1 inch wide polyvee belt has the surface area in contact with the polyvee pulley equal to almost a 2 inch plain flat one! 

Much more info here https://www.transdev.co.uk/rubber-belts/poly-vee-drive-belts/

Paul m.

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