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On 8/9/2019 at 9:35 AM, Britprius said:

Jeff yes being an electronics engineer I have considerable soldering expertise. However it is perhaps desirable to solder in the batteries, but it is by no means essential. 

I have found little if any difference between brands of batteries, since testing would take years for each brand it is difficult to be certain. If you can obtain batteries with tags fitted or get the supplier to fit tags this does help with the installation of them, and makes the soldering process easy. Again this is not essential.

John.

John thanks for the info.

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On 8/9/2019 at 10:05 AM, Pewe said:

Am I correct in assuming that by "Pressure initialization" procedure you are referring to resetting the system using the button under the dash?

Yes, correct. That will reset the alarm limits in ECU (the pressure which will raise the "low tire" message). Those are also visible in the TechStream...

Sami

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/7/2019 at 9:06 AM, Sami Tilander said:

Update:

After one day of driving around different tire shops, the conclusion is:

OEM valve from local Lexus dealer: 128€/each

OEM valve from a tire shop: 114€/each

Schrader non-OEM sensor for a tire shop: 40€/each

So I got new sensors to all four wheels 4x40€ = 160€. No worries about batteries in near future 😉

The tire shop was able to copy the IDs from old sensors to the new ones, so I don't even need to re-program the ECU.1356057062_DSC_0015(1).thumb.jpg.4a54593c27d95263896e0b50216fb6ad.jpg

This picture shows the old and new sensors. The new ones seems to have valve stems attached with screws, so they can be replaced later, if needed. Schrader also offers service kits (seal, washer, nut)...

So, case closed (hopefully, I still need to install them to my refurb'ed rims...)

Btw. I also bought OEM service kits for my winter wheels, so I can avoid stuck valves in the future:

55961286_DSC_0014(1).thumb.jpg.4d667997eb5e1dcee00de4eaf6545482.jpg

Price was 10€/each. If the previous owner of the car just would have done this in time...

BR.Sami

 

I'm having my wheels refurbished next week and I'd like to buy 4 Tyre Fitting Kits just in case the old ones are damaged when they are removed. Is the above part number the correct one for the GS300 (2007)? Can't find it for sale in the U.K. There's plenty for sale when searching for 'TPMS Tyre Fitting Kit' but how do I know which ones to buy? Has anyone on here bought what I want in the UK? Sami who started this thread appears not to live in the UK. Thanks.

 

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Did you still have original sensors? Never changed batteries? Did the error disappear or is it constant?

I've noticed that it actually takes quite long time after the ECU complains about "check system". So might be that your sensor(s) is barely sending something, time to time, and it might keep the ECU happy most of the time.

I've also similar issue with one of those non-OEM-sensors I bought: it has replaced already once, but it still fails in communication time to time... I'm going to refurbish the original, old sensors and replace at least this failing one...

BR. Sami

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Here is couple of pictures I took from TPMS sensor Battery change...

Pic 1: sensor removed from the enclosure: first remove the black plastic cover (two plastic pins holding it), then carefully dig out the sensor from that white stuff... Note that I have cut the valve stem totally (it was also damaged), and I'll replace that with new one.

pic1.thumb.JPG.cef951e576e435d91a74fd568c6d112f.JPG

Pic 2: sensor from underneath: note the antenna wire (be carefully when removing the circuit board: you cannot really see the antenna, it is under the circuit board...)

pic2.thumb.JPG.09112e070ba8b5fca9343b338c5a5caf.JPG

Pic 3: voltage of the old Battery (antenna facing up)

 pic3.thumb.JPG.c62d503fc499bfddba04955cf1deacf1.JPG

Pic 4: new Battery, type CR2450. Not exactly same as the old one, but managed to solder it into place.

pic4.thumb.JPG.2f29fa89e52b6c7396a7f76faaf08e2a.JPG

Pic 5: voltage of the new Battery

pic5.thumb.JPG.ca2d53b31b98debc7f28152eb896e380.JPG

Pic 6: end result! I used regular bathroom silicone (I don't have plans to replace this Battery any more 😉 ) The new valve stem is glued with epoxy.

pic6.thumb.JPG.d88a959f3da21d5ad68ce2c977ffd8e7.JPG

BR. Sami

Edited by Sami Tilander
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I have one of my sensor stopped working, there is check system warning on the dash, when I took out the sensor and try to replace the Battery it was all corroded inside so have to be replaced. Before throwing that in the bin I connected a new Battery to it and it does not work. I had a cheap VCI cable which let me read the TPMS ID etc and I know which is faulty as it has no signal reading. 

I bought a AUTEL USB pad to write code to AUTEL sensor with the ID4 OEM code which did not work, Still check system error. I then bought this £10 sensor from amazon https://amzn.to/2Lk20kg and tried to code that to the car. the software with the VCI cable will not write code, giving some ECU communication error. 

After lots and lots of research on line I found out that VCI cable have firmware and cheap cables all have 1.4v and that will allow reading off ECU only. Slightly more expensive cable have different chip and with 2.04v firmware. A few cable purchases later I managed to get into the coding function. 

For some reason the AUTEL sensor with orginal code now decided to work, I then try and write the code of the £10 sensor into the ECU and it worked too......

A bonus tip from me and I guess I have to wait and see how long it will stay working is that the £10 sensor is in my glove box with a big metal clip clamped onto it and it show 300kbp, this stop the check system without having to install the sensor into the wheel. This is not well documented and took me weeks of researching online to find a thread on toyota forum for Pirus cars. 

I hope this will help anyone who don't want to pay the hundreds at dealers. 

A youtube video will be uploaded soon 

 

Benson  

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7 hours ago, subman said:

I bought a AUTEL USB pad to write code to AUTEL sensor with the ID4 OEM code which did not work, Still check system error. I then bought this £10 sensor from amazon https://amzn.to/2Lk20kg and tried to code that to the car. the software with the VCI cable will not write code, giving some ECU communication error. 

The link says "UMIWE 315MHz", but in Europe it should be 433MHz, if I've got it correctly... Anyway, good to know that there are other options available 👍

 

BR.Sami

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On 8/12/2019 at 6:17 AM, Sami Tilander said:

Yes, correct. That will reset the alarm limits in ECU (the pressure which will raise the "low tire" message). Those are also visible in the TechStream...

Sami

I tried to reset the system using the button under the dash.

As soon as I release the button (after 3 seconds) the initialising message appears for about 2 seconds then the message reverts to 'low tyre pressure', where it stays.

I tried it a few times with the same results.

Does this mean that one of the sensors is still faulty in some way or possibly that the one the garage fitted is not compatible with the car?

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5 hours ago, Pewe said:

As soon as I release the button (after 3 seconds) the initialising message appears for about 2 seconds then the message reverts to 'low tyre pressure', where it stays.

You actually need to drive the car for about 500m to get the new limits set in the ECU. I noticed this when I had TechStream connected to the car and I did the initialization procedure: values where not updated even I waited how log. Only after I drove the car about 500m, the new limits were stored. And to get the "low type pressure" message cancelled, you need to drive a bit more. For me it took about 5 mins driving around when the message finally dissappeared. Strange logic...

Did you have the TechStream? With it you can see the real measurements from sensors...

BR.Sami

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On 8/30/2019 at 7:18 AM, Sami Tilander said:

The link says "UMIWE 315MHz", but in Europe it should be 433MHz, if I've got it correctly... Anyway, good to know that there are other options available 👍

 

BR.Sami

You are right after all, that sensor did not work, at the end the the £23.99 is what I used to solve my problem. https://amzn.to/2ZEPLE1 Autel Programmable Universal TPMS Sensor Dual Frequency (315MHz + 433MHz)

I also find out that if you press the pressure reset button it will start the ECU initiation, this will stop TS to communicate with the ECU hence you will not be able to code. I left it overnight and tried it again in the morning and I can code again.....

 

Headache to do it yourself and once I have the time I will make a guide for the forum as it is a ball ache to nav through all the information on the net. I now have to coding pad so I am happy to code sensor for anyone needed etc. 

Benson   

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 8/30/2019 at 1:36 PM, Sami Tilander said:

You actually need to drive the car for about 500m to get the new limits set in the ECU. I noticed this when I had TechStream connected to the car and I did the initialization procedure: values where not updated even I waited how log. Only after I drove the car about 500m, the new limits were stored. And to get the "low type pressure" message cancelled, you need to drive a bit more. For me it took about 5 mins driving around when the message finally dissappeared. Strange logic...

Did you have the TechStream? With it you can see the real measurements from sensors...

BR.Sami

I have not driven 500 miles yet - only about 300) but still the message 'low tire pressure' shows on the dash.

I guess I will have to try and get hold of an adapter and techstream to see what I can find.

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19 hours ago, Pewe said:

500 miles

I ment 500 meters, not miles, sorry for confusion...

I've to say that those aftermarket sensors I now have (Scharader), are not very reliable... It takes very long time to clear the "low tire" message after correcting the tire pressures. I'm going to switch back to the OEM sensors...

BR.Sami

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Update: I'm also now having this "low tire" message visible all the time... I've been driving two days with TechStream live monitoring, and it shows correct pressures for all tires (way above the thresholds). And still that message is visible... strange.

I'm suspecting that those aftermarket sensors are time-to-time sending some very low readings, even the pressures are correct. Because I did the "initialization" procedure and it captured very low pressures as limits (I can see this in the TechStream). The strange thing is that I don't see those low readings in TechStream. Maybe the TechStream is not updating the screen that often?

BR.Sami

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