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I hate rust on cars, so my Landrover defender is rebuilt on a galvanised chassis with galvanised bulkhead and had the axles all all brackets galvanised at the same time. I still cavity wax the chassis.

The Lexus I bought last week had a bit surface rust underneath, suspect Scottish winters and salt on the roads:

Nothing structural but not great, my last 12 year old Saab 9-5 was much better protected.

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So out with the wire brush, then high pressure pressure washer used with care then a spray with POR-15 metal prep that leaves a Zinc Phosphate coating, blow dry with the air line then paint surface rust with Vactan.

 

 

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Then cavity sections sprayed with Noxudol 700 cavity wax and underbody sprayed with Noxudol 300:

 

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Started same process on the front:

 

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Only got as far as the Vactan when rain stopped play:

 

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Like what you've done there pal. Takes me back a few decades when I did similar with my BL cars. Excellent thread. Good of you to share.

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10 minutes ago, Mr Vlad said:

Like what you've done there pal. Takes me back a few decades when I did similar with my BL cars. Excellent thread. Good of you to share.

I had a few decades of Saab's then and Alfa Romeo that got me back into rust proofing 🙄

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Well done amazing job from somebody who obviously cares🤗

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I'm not up to date with current modern rust proofing products. Wire brush followed by a rust killer (name escapes me) and black waxoyle always worked for me.

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27 minutes ago, Mr Vlad said:

I'm not up to date with current modern rust proofing products. Wire brush followed by a rust killer (name escapes me) and black waxoyle always worked for me.

I used to use Jenolite then waxoyl.

I use POR 15v metal ready first, it leaves a zinc phosphate coating, so a bit more advanced than just phosphoric acid.

This still leaves some areas that do not look treated, so I paint them with Vactan, its a rut converter in a vinyl acrylic solution so seals the area too.

I started using Noxodol over Dinitrol after reading a good review: https://www.auson.se/sites/default/files/rusttest_noxudol_700_classic_monthly_uk_0.pdf

Running a landrover Defender keeps me up to date in rust prevention 😃

 

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A quick shout for the Rustbuster Epoxy Mastic 121 mentioned in the magazine report. Had two exposed rust spots near the rear jacking points on my LS430 four years ago and the mastic on top of rust converter is still intact.

I believe the Rustbuster rust converter is phosphoric acid in a latex solution rather than just the acid. I have also used that but it does need a protective coat of something on top.

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Finished off the coating today, masked of the calipers too and sprayed with hi temp resistant paint:

 

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Then washed car and found a few minor scratches: so out with the DA machine polisher and Meguiar's Ultimate Compound then Autoglym Super Resin Polish then Autogylm Ultra HD wax:

 

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Sterling work. A bit of an eye-opener to see what it looked like given the low mileage.

Not sure whether I want to look too closely at mine now.....

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3 minutes ago, Spottedlaurel said:

Sterling work. A bit of an eye-opener to see what it looked like given the low mileage.

Not sure whether I want to look too closely at mine now.....

Before pics are after scraping loose paint and chipping of corroded areas - so did not looks as bad at first. Must confess I expected better from Lexus.

5 Scottish winters is a significant salt spray test for any car I suppose.

 

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I must have missed the mileage the car has covered ? Is it low?

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8 minutes ago, RgrWynne said:

I must have missed the mileage the car has covered ? Is it low?

Relatively, 28k.

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I've watched a few utube video's etc. about Krown rust proofing and wish there was one closer to me.

 

http://www.krown.co.uk/

 

I just don't have the free time to do what the OP has done, so something like this would be the better option for me.

 

I also use spray cans of Waxoyl, but it never seems to go off..

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Blimey I wouldn't use them with the amount of over spray. I bet it costs a whole lot more than doing it yourself  it by bit.

Waxoyl never solidifies. It stays kinda rubbery.

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Excellent thread. Well done Tom. You don't fancy coming south for a few days and doing my 9-5 do you? :wink:

On 6/6/2019 at 8:30 PM, Rannsachair said:

5 Scottish winters is a significant salt spray test for any car I suppose.

Before buying my last RX 400h I looked at one local to me that had spent its life in and around Aberdeen and that was in an extremely poor state underneath.

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1 hour ago, rich1068 said:

Excellent thread. Well done Tom. You don't fancy coming south for a few days and doing my 9-5 do you? :wink:

Before buying my last RX 400h I looked at one local to me that had spent its life in and around Aberdeen and that was in an extremely poor state underneath.

Something like: 

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Not sure about coming south, I don't have a passport......

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11 minutes ago, Rannsachair said:

Something like: 

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Compared to that my 9-5 has what I think they refer to now as an interesting "patina".

12 minutes ago, Rannsachair said:

Not sure about coming south, I don't have a passport......

Just cut your hair and trim your beard. You'll blend right in south of the wall :tongue:

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5 hours ago, rich1068 said:

Compared to that my 9-5 has what I think they refer to now as an interesting "patina".

Just cut your hair and trim your beard. You'll blend right in south of the wall :tongue:

Was not quite so good before:

I have had a few Saab's, I just sold my 71 Saab 96 last month, before that the 2006 9-5 Aero, 2000 9-3 2.0 turbo, 1995 9000 CSE 2.3 turbo and my favourite a 1984 900 16v turbo S.

My brother and dad had Saab's too: 

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Seems a shame not to turn this thread into one about Saabs :biggrin:

My current whips

'99 9-3 Convertible

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'05 9-5 Aero

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On 6/10/2019 at 6:54 PM, Mr Vlad said:

Blimey I wouldn't use them with the amount of over spray. I bet it costs a whole lot more than doing it yourself  it by bit.

Waxoyl never solidifies. It stays kinda rubbery.

I'd still use it because it's allegedly able to stop the rust that is already present.

 

I'll be buying a Waxoyl pack soon anyway, might as well cover myself in gunge. There's only really odd bits, mainly around the exhaust system, suspension mounts, that kind of thing. Up on the ramps, off with the wheels, on with the spray.

 

And on another slightly worrying point... My MOT guy told me that if a brake pipe has been coated with grease, it's now a fail. I've always done this...

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