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Because the pump is a centrifugal pump with the outlet set at a tangent to the rotor direction is critical to the performance of the pump. The rotor position is needed to get the optimum switching timing for electrical efficiency. These so called digital motors are very efficient compared to both brush, and squirrel cage motors offering more torque, and speed at less current.
They do not work with fixed frequency, but ramp up when starting to remove the current spike associated with motor starting, and give better torque.
John.


Given that no errors pop up until it’s been driven for 15 minutes even with blown fuses I suspect the only feedback to the ECU is via a thermostat telling it the inverter is getting too hot.

I should get underneath to have a look at pump tonight.



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34 minutes ago, grantwils said:

 


Given that no errors pop up until it’s been driven for 15 minutes even with blown fuses I suspect the only feedback to the ECU is via a thermostat telling it the inverter is getting too hot.

I should get underneath to have a look at pump tonight.



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You will not be able to tell much by looking at the pump. You may be able to feel some vibration if it is running, but this will be very slight. If there is no turbulence in the reservoir the pump is not running, and as you already know it is blowing the supply fuse.
You are correct in assuming the fault code is triggered by an over temp sensor.

John.

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Thanks for your help everyone. £317 for the pump and £50 for my local Indy to fit it and normal service has resumed.

No fuses blowing.
No error messages.
Pump clearly running when I open the coolant cap.

Thank you everyone.


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