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ISF Takeda Retain, Caution!!


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Just a quick word of warning for those of us using the Takeda Retain intakes from Afe on their ISFs. 

Been down on power a little lately and had a weird noise like a tiny pig oinking every time I let off the accelerator. 

Had to change my dipped beam bulbs the other day so took a lot of the frontward contents of the engine bay out and found this!! 

Just a warning to other users, the rubber intake hoses that come with the Takeda are crap and will split. Had mine in for about a year tops. 

IMG_20191116_162403_176.thumb.jpg.fc03245da938a562741926e9d8d98e2e.jpg

Duly replaced with brand new silicone versions from ASH.

 

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ASH Auto silicone hoses on eBay mate. 

90 ID 15 degree elbow but you need to cut it down loads and a 102 / 90 reducer but again you need to cut it down loads. 

Did mine with a hacksaw, should have drawn a line and used a Stanley blade. 

😎😎

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On 11/23/2019 at 8:59 PM, NothernDan said:

Just a quick word of warning for those of us using the Takeda Retain intakes from Afe on their ISFs. 

Been down on power a little lately and had a weird noise like a tiny pig oinking every time I let off the accelerator. 

Had to change my dipped beam bulbs the other day so took a lot of the frontward contents of the engine bay out and found this!! 

Just a warning to other users, the rubber intake hoses that come with the Takeda are crap and will split. Had mine in for about a year tops. 

IMG_20191116_162403_176.thumb.jpg.fc03245da938a562741926e9d8d98e2e.jpg

Duly replaced with brand new silicone versions from ASH.

 

Just “unpimp” your car, matey! 🤣😜😜👊

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Checked my joints last night. Everything seems fine, they look like new. No signs of scoring or splitting.
I wonder if you over-tightened the jubilee clips which then cut into the rubber.

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11 hours ago, Toothy said:

Checked my joints last night. Everything seems fine, they look like new. No signs of scoring or splitting.
I wonder if you over-tightened the jubilee clips which then cut into the rubber.

I think I probably did. My elbow torque settings were set to high!! 

Blue still looks better though, get em changed 😎

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  • 2 weeks later...

Another thing to look out for if you feel you are low on power is the secondary intake flap. Make sure that the flap is init's closed position when installing the cone filter otherwise it will not close and will hit the cone filter at low RPM.

 

 

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2 hours ago, designo said:

Another thing to look out for if you feel you are low on power is the secondary intake flap. Make sure that the flap is init's closed position when installing the cone filter otherwise it will not close and will hit the cone filter at low RPM.

 

 

Mine is permanently open anyway, actuator mod! 

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10 minutes ago, designo said:

When mine was open full time, I lost low range power.

Something to do with heat soak from engine if i remember correctly. Does sound better though.

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8 minutes ago, Toothy said:

Something to do with heat soak from engine if i remember correctly. Does sound better though.

Its 50:50 on whether the flap mod is a good or bad mod. 

The heat soak thing is a myth, the flap opens straight into the engine bay anyway and we have a MAF so the mixture is adjusted accordingly based on IAT. 

It does sound better lower down with the mod but you lose the sudden two stage noise as the chewbacca growl starts lower down and builds gradually rather than just suddenly arriving at 3.5k. 

RR racing intake totally deletes the actuator so if they are happy then so am I. 

My custom box will do the same but will have a much larger chamber and better air feeds from more places so till then I'll run with the flap delete mod and the Takeda which gives me what I want for now..... Noise!! 

 

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Thanks for the info Dan! I've never run with flap always open on the Takeda, so might give it a try.
Interested in your airbox build. Please make a thread about it when you get around to it. I'm sure plenty will be interested.

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