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IS250 - New beginning (bit of an ongoing "project")


H3XME
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Hello,

 

So I've picked up another IS250 last year. I had one previously and I missed it, so here it is.

Manual, black leather, sat nav with Mark Levinson audio system, air conditioned seats and the rest that's pretty normal for these cars.

Bought it completely stock.

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Soon after I've done an oil change, I replaced a dirty air filter and put an HKS Super air filter in it and changed the oil cap for a Mishimoto aluminium one.

I've replaced a dirty & damaged gear knob gaiter and disgustingly used gear knob that just pained me every time I drove it.

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Then the exciting stuff happened.. a set of RAYS Gramlights 57CR 18x9.5 ET38 paired with very average TOYO Proxes TR1 225/40R18.. I've used the older compound (T1-R) tyres and they were fine. Definitely a very noticeable upgrade over the previous 245/45R17 Continentals that someone put on it. 245s are just way too wide for the amount of power this car has in my opinion. It feels a lot more nimble now on the narrower tyres, but also much more grippy due to the Toyo's being just better in every way. The AVG mpg's have also changed after changing an air filter & wheels. I used to average 21mpg on my way to and from work (14mile one way mixed commute - dual carriageways, town and country roads). Now it's around 26mpg and strictly motorway driving - cruise control at 70mph went from 36mpg to 43mpg. Safe to say I'm very happy with it so far.  

A8C6EF87-CC4D-4977-814D-E9D05556DC7F.jpg

Currently I need to get rear discs & pads all round as these are sh*t and very bad on dusting.

Plans for the future are:

TEIN Flex Z Fully adjustable coilovers to improve the handling.

HARDRACE front LCA steering response bushes - that should stiffen up the steering wheel a little bit as it's way too sensitive for me at the moment.

GT86/BRZ OEM differential & 4.1 final drive - will reduced the top speed, but will increase the acceleration which is something very noticeable, especially on A/T cars as they have 3.7 FD and M/T have 3.9 FD, but my Manual will benefit from it too.

HKS HI-Power exhaust (currently on back order - should arrive in April) - unleash the V6 noises! Sound clip from someone in the USA here

Rear diffuser

Vland tail lights

+ lots more but I won't list everything..

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
On 2. januar 2020 at 4:47 PM, H3XME said:

Hello,

 

So I've picked up another IS250 last year. I had one previously and I missed it, so here it is.

Manual, black leather, sat nav with Mark Levinson audio system, air conditioned seats and the rest that's pretty normal for these cars.

Bought it completely stock.

spacer.png

Soon after I've done an oil change, I replaced a dirty air filter and put an HKS Super air filter in it and changed the oil cap for a Mishimoto aluminium one.

I've replaced a dirty & damaged gear knob gaiter and disgustingly used gear knob that just pained me every time I drove it.

spacer.png

Then the exciting stuff happened.. a set of RAYS Gramlights 57CR 18x9.5 ET38 paired with very average TOYO Proxes TR1 225/40R18.. I've used the older compound (T1-R) tyres and they were fine. Definitely a very noticeable upgrade over the previous 245/45R17 Continentals that someone put on it. 245s are just way too wide for the amount of power this car has in my opinion. It feels a lot more nimble now on the narrower tyres, but also much more grippy due to the Toyo's being just better in every way. The AVG mpg's have also changed after changing an air filter & wheels. I used to average 21mpg on my way to and from work (14mile one way mixed commute - dual carriageways, town and country roads). Now it's around 26mpg and strictly motorway driving - cruise control at 70mph went from 36mpg to 43mpg. Safe to say I'm very happy with it so far.  

A8C6EF87-CC4D-4977-814D-E9D05556DC7F.jpg

Currently I need to get rear discs & pads all round as these are sh*t and very bad on dusting.

Plans for the future are:

TEIN Flex Z Fully adjustable coilovers to improve the handling.

HARDRACE front LCA steering response bushes - that should stiffen up the steering wheel a little bit as it's way too sensitive for me at the moment.

GT86/BRZ OEM differential & 4.1 final drive - will reduced the top speed, but will increase the acceleration which is something very noticeable, especially on A/T cars as they have 3.7 FD and M/T have 3.9 FD, but my Manual will benefit from it too.

HKS HI-Power exhaust (currently on back order - should arrive in April) - unleash the V6 noises! Sound clip from someone in the USA here

Rear diffuser

Vland tail lights

+ lots more but I won't list everything..

 

 

 

What vil the Gt86 differentiall change in the car? Cost.

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6 minutes ago, Alfalfa said:

What vil the Gt86 differentiall change in the car? Cost.

The final drive is a different ratio, so It will improve the acceleration.. And second hand 86 LSD is only about £300 + the stock torsen in my IS250 doesn't lock up the same way the diff in my GT86 locks up.

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2 hours ago, H3XME said:

The final drive is a different ratio, so It will improve the acceleration.. And second hand 86 LSD is only about £300 + the stock torsen in my IS250 doesn't lock up the same way the diff in my GT86 locks up.

Do you know about second hand 86 LSD?

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  • 3 months later...

Update:

I've been a bit slacking on here, so anyway. I've installed the new exhaust (HKS Hi-Power) a couple months ago and I've also put coilovers (TEIN FLEX Z) on the car a few weeks ago.

Exhaust was a very very easy to install. Nothing special, just pop the hangers off, undo a few bolts, job done. 

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Now coilovers. There were all pretty easy to do it, just a matter of WD40 and undoing bolts here and there. However, the rear left bolts that goes through the shock & lca was rusted in so bad I couldn't remove it. I ended up cutting it and putting a new bolt in. FIY, the bolt is M14 and around 80mm long.. I couldn't believe how difficult it was to find it. I ended up buying it online for £7 as B&Q, Screwfix and Toolstation had only M12 or M16 as alternatives... I needed my car, so I just put an M12 through it that I got from B&Q as I didn't have any other option, but it's all good now.

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The car is now sitting about 60mm front and 50mm rear lower than stock. The ride is actually more comfortably than on stock shocks, although the stock suspension was 135k miles old and tired.

Here's a pic of the clearance on the front on full lock with 18x9.5 ET38 wheels. It looks fine, but it does rub on full lock when there are two people in the car. Only an issue when parking, and not a big deal at all. It just catches the arch liner, so no damage.

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Here's a few pics of how the car sits now.

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IMG_7174-scaled.jpgIMG_7193-scaled.jpg

IMG_7049-scaled.jpgIMG_7060-scaled.jpg

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Also had to test the diff. The stock suspension had so much travel the diff just wouldn't lock, whereas now the rear end is a lot stiffer, the little Torsen LSD engages a lot better 🙂

Apologies for the poor choice of location, but it was convenient and nobody was around as this McDonald's is still closed now due to lockdown.

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  • 1 month later...

Like what you've done to your car Lucas. That's what McD's car parks are for lol.

Whats the reasoning behind changing the oil filler cap? I intend changing the air filter for a gauze type. Love the exhaust. 

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  • 4 months later...

On 7/4/2020 at 11:21 AM, Mr Vlad said:

Like what you've done to your car Lucas. That's what McD's car parks are for lol.

Whats the reasoning behind changing the oil filler cap? I intend changing the air filter for a gauze type. Love the exhaust. 

Just for cosmetic purposes. I managed to get it cheap enough so I thought why not.

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On 7/12/2020 at 12:27 AM, Alfalfa said:

How much labor time to change the dif?

Speaking from my limited experience, on my GT86 it took me 3 hours, but it is possible to do it a lot quicker. It was my first time.

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33 minutes ago, Marleez said:

Wow. Any more updates to your car?

Just a few bits. I have lowered the car a bit more, put wheel spacers on to make the camber a bit more obvious. I have now ordered Tie Rods and Camber Arms for the rear to adjust the toe as it's currently ruining my tyres due to how low it is. Camber arms to add 2 more degrees of camber and I'll be happy. Can't lower the car any more because I scrape over speed bumps.

Pics to follow

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Update. Clutch is gone, started slipping very very bad all of a sudden. I managed to get a good deal on Exedy standard replacement clutch kit (pressure plate, bearing and clutch disc) Part Number: LEK2001 for those who are interested. Link to buy here

I'm going to change it with my mate tomorrow. I'm not changing the DMF as I had no issues with it at all, no weird noises etc. I'm hoping it will be okay, but it's one of those things I won't know until I see it. Could only find a DMF from Lexus for £880+VAT and solid flywheel from Fidanza from the states works out to about £500. Bear in mind the car is now on almost 145k miles. Will be interesting to see.

Also got some Castrol Syntrax 75W-90 transmission fluid and some AP Racing brake fluid for the clutch.

 

LEK2001-miin.jpg

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Have you done research on the trans fluid? General consensus is to only use Toyota oil. Forget the spec but there again utube videos use a different oil but the same spec as Toyota. Bummer the clutch has gone but that's a ruddy good price for that kit 👍

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5 hours ago, Mr Vlad said:

Have you done research on the trans fluid? General consensus is to only use Toyota oil. Forget the spec but there again utube videos use a different oil but the same spec as Toyota. Bummer the clutch has gone but that's a ruddy good price for that kit 👍

I have. It's the right grade, and from experience, it generally doesn't matter. I ran Motul 75W90 in my GT86 both diff and gearbox and it was fine. This is the same stuff just from Castrol. Gearbox and diff is also almost the same as 86. 

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Quick update on the clutch.

So the clutch has been changed now, got the Exedy kit in it, but kept the original DMF as it's still okay for a while. Couldn't justify spending £500+ on a new flywheel at this time of the year, but the good news is everything works as it should. I'm just going to bed it in over the next 250 miles or so. 

Moral of the story, if you have no flywheel issues, you don't necessarily have to change it. Garages will advise you to do it but they just want to make extra ££ on you even if the stock flywheel is still usable. The car has covered 145k miles on a stock clutch & flywheel, so I'm chuffed.

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