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Alternator on IS250 Replace it or wait until it fails?


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My IS250 is just over 190k miles and i've been reading a lot on the american forums of the alternators failing. Seems like people there report it as a common problem with the IS250. I haven't seen as many reports here in UK forums but there have been a few recent incidents on here of failing alternators. It got me thinking, should I replace my alternator as a safe measure or should I wait until mine dies? I tested the alternator with a multimeter, on start-up with lights and AC off it pumps out over 14volts. I also used one of those cheap alternator and Battery testers and the LED reports alternator as good. My alternator could be on its way out or could have lots more life left in it, there's no way of really knowing. What would you all do? The thought of a failing alternator on the middle of a motorway just sounds scary, eventually you'd have no lights and stuff to even have hazards on for people to see you.

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take out brilliant RAC full breakdown etc cover

happened to me last Friday at 227k miles .......... paid for taxi and car recovery to my indy mechanic, collecting the car fixed today

My Honda Legend, a couple of months ago the alternator failed at about 119k miles, but bang outside the house in daylight

RAC recovered the car to my indy likewise, some 50 miles away

You cannot predict alternator failure ( I think ??? ) so just take precautions to protect yourself for when it does just go ' pop '

Malc

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My cars not on 70,000 miles yet let go coming home 1 am. Car started run for 6 minutes to defrost drove 100 foot, no lights on dash board at all. No headlights or sidelights,

no power steering a knight mare. Shorted out fitting new alternator main fuse box . I would not wish this on anyone, fault Vsc and traction control when car got running.

Fixed using the paper clip methord, every thing alright at the moment. I am thinking of doing starter and water pump, as all original as far as i know.

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The thought of changing a fully functioning part ( I know at the moment!) I think is ridiculous, will you consider changing Starter motor also? As this could leave you stranded ( but with lights still working)

I do read the US owners site and yes they seem to have a lot of Alternator failures but then understand that there are considerable more IS models on the road over there than here and also some of the states concerned are very much hotter than here and heat is the enemy of any electrical component!

paul m

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17 minutes ago, Texas said:

The thought of changing a fully functioning part ( I know at the moment!) I think is ridiculous, will you consider changing Starter motor also? As this could leave you stranded ( but with lights still working)

I do read the US owners site and yes they seem to have a lot of Alternator failures but then understand that there are considerable more IS models on the road over there than here and also some of the states concerned are very much hotter than here and heat is the enemy of any electrical component!

paul m

Thank you Paul, I was thinking the climate might have something to do with it too. I don't like the idea of replacing it either seeing as it's working but the thought of just losing power sounds a bit scary. Other things like if starter was to fail, at least i'm parked already somewhere and can get RAC. Worth changing the drive-belt? i changed it as a preventative measure at about 100k last. How often are drive belts to be changed?

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100k is as good a point as any to change the aux drive belt seeing that there is no actual set time/mileage in the Lexus schedule! It first makes mention to a visual inspection at 72 Mths/60,000 Miles then every 18 Months/15,000 Miles ( obviously replace if deteriorated in any way )but no actual periodical replace point!

paul m.

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My alternator failed.

Before it did, I had the following symptoms which lasted for approx 500 miles.

After a long enough journey (up to temp), there was a distinct smell of electrical burning coming off the front end once I had parked up on the drive. Then came the whining on a cold start. If you have looked after your IS250 and your engine is silky smooth and quiet like mine usually was (and is once again), then you will know about the whine as soon as it starts to happen. Annoying as hell!

When you get either of these symptoms, get it replaced.

When the Battery light came on, I went straight home. Left it on the drive until it was booked in for a replacement and then drove it once approx 2 miles to the garage with no problems. I guess I had enough juice in the Battery.....

I wouldn't replace it until you get sure signs its on its way out......no point.

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On 1/10/2020 at 9:10 AM, Malc said:

You cannot predict alternator failure ( I think ??? ) so just take precautions to protect yourself for when it does just go ' pop '

Yes you can do protective maintenance like changing brushes and cleaning (usually dust is the main cause of electrical failure) same for motor starter  

However for 190k and 14 years it lasted long anyway.

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my alternator packed up a year ago (2006 model) so 12 years.  If it is on your mind, I would look now for replacement ones and how much they cost, who will install it etc. a good mechanic and/or auto electrician could do this for you. salvage yards maybe a good idea. im really impressed with your mileage. how does the car run? mines hit 122k. no issues! smooth as anything!

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  • 11 months later...
On 1/14/2020 at 4:30 PM, BillNick said:

My alternator failed.

Before it did, I had the following symptoms which lasted for approx 500 miles.

After a long enough journey (up to temp), there was a distinct smell of electrical burning coming off the front end once I had parked up on the drive. Then came the whining on a cold start. If you have looked after your IS250 and your engine is silky smooth and quiet like mine usually was (and is once again), then you will know about the whine as soon as it starts to happen. Annoying as hell!

When you get either of these symptoms, get it replaced.

When the battery light came on, I went straight home. Left it on the drive until it was booked in for a replacement and then drove it once approx 2 miles to the garage with no problems. I guess I had enough juice in the battery.....

I wouldn't replace it until you get sure signs its on its way out......no point.

So the other day after about a 30minute drive on motorway I got a strange rubber/plastic burning smell through the vents into the cabin. Turned off the car and from outside the smell was quite noticable near the passenger side wheel area. Popped the bonnet open but when trying to smell the engine bay area I couldnt really smell it in the engine bay (was just getting a slight whiff of the smell) but the smell was more noticable by the passenger front wheel area. So I left it overnight and for the next day and went for a drive the following night. It started up fine, no smell at first as everything was freezing cold then after about 10minutes of driving as it was warming up I got a whiff of that smell (not as strong) for a few minutes and then it disappeared completely. After that the smell had completely disappeared. So, wondering if this can be the dreaded alternator rectifier burning smell?

I've been looking at buying an alternator. The Denso replacement for it is the Denso DAN1354 but with brexit it seems to be out of stock everywhere. Earlier this year it was going for around £220 on eBay. Now the only brand new alternator option I can find is the following: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132242571162 which seems like some british made alternative. Anyone had any experience with this particular product? I wanted to go for Denso replacement as this other one brand is unknown.

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2 hours ago, james250 said:

I've been looking at buying an alternator. The Denso replacement for it is the Denso DAN1354 but with brexit it seems to be out of stock everywhere.

Why not have your own alternator professionally refurbished?

I live a couple of miles from these guys https://www.ribblesdale.co.uk/ and they are brilliant. You may have a similar place near you but if not you can sent it to Ribblesdale.

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1 hour ago, J88TEO said:

That's what I bought for my GS300 mk3.

 

I was really considering this one seeing as the eBay seller has 100% feedback but then I googled schmitz rotary engineering ltd and the google reviews are mixed with lots of people compaining about alternators failing after few months. The price is rather cheap but if it fails again so soon its not really worth it for me as the headache of replacing it everytime is too much. How long have you had yours and how was the fitment?

 

1 hour ago, Herbie said:

Why not have your own alternator professionally refurbished?

I live a couple of miles from these guys https://www.ribblesdale.co.uk/ and they are brilliant. You may have a similar place near you but if not you can sent it to Ribblesdale.

Having my own one refurbished will that give it a good chance of lasting long though? Like my biggest concern is a repeat failure. Like will the cost saving vs new one be worth it? how long do refurbished ones last and what is involved in refurbing a alternator? 

I have also found the following one by a alternator and starter refurb company in Plymouth. They seem to have very good reviews on TrustedPilot: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192474249867 this particular one is £180 for a Denso refurbished one and they refund £30 for the old unit.

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There are few other brands i've found CASCO, AS-PL, Ridex. These are quite reasonably priced. has anyone heard of these brands are they any good? here are a few links: https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/casco-10879590.html

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11 hours ago, james250 said:

I was really considering this one seeing as the ebay seller has 100% feedback but then I googled schmitz rotary engineering ltd and the google reviews are mixed with lots of people compaining about alternators failing after few months. The price is rather cheap but if it fails again so soon its not really worth it for me as the headache of replacing it everytime is too much. How long have you had yours and how was the fitment?

 

Having my own one refurbished will that give it a good chance of lasting long though? Like my biggest concern is a repeat failure. Like will the cost saving vs new one be worth it? how long do refurbished ones last and what is involved in refurbing a alternator? 

I have also found the following one by a alternator and starter refurb company in Plymouth. They seem to have very good reviews on TrustedPilot: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192474249867 this particular one is £180 for a Denso refurbished one and they refund £30 for the old unit.

I bought that unit myself, a genuine Denso so know it fitted and good quality.

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On 12/29/2020 at 8:10 PM, J88TEO said:

That's what I bought for my GS300 mk3.

 

So I ended up buying this one as the seller seems to have sold quite a lot of units and I messaged and they said that apparently it's very good quality aftermarket alternator. I received it and looks like a quality build externally but I guess it's about the quality of the internals.

One thing i noticed though I spun the pulley by hand and a few times it felt like some sort of resistance almost like something was stopping the pulley but it wasn't strong resistance and kept spinning but then eventually the resistance disappeared. It did that when I spun it in both directions so not sure if that's supposed to happen?

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1 hour ago, J88TEO said:

There is bound to be resistence as the brushes are spring loaded against the core.

It doesn't seem to be the sort of resistance that you will get from spring loading. It's very strange because i can only re-create it and the noise if i turn the pully ever so slowly with my hand and sometimes if i rotate it back and forth then it feels almost like something touch or the blade inside is catching something. When this happens I can hear a little noise of whatever it is touching. 

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8 minutes ago, Texas said:

Has it got an OAP ( Overrunning Alternator Pulley) as this might have something to do with what you are trying to describe.

Not sure what kind of Pulley it has but definately has the plastic cover just like the one in the picture of the OAP on the video you posted. So, is an OAP supposed to help with noise but when I do this manual spinning by hand back and forth very slowly that noise could be part of the OAP? 

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