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Checking The Caliper Slide Pins. Toyota/Lexus Brakes.


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I did a quick test today to make sure my caliper slide pins were running freely. If you follow this quick guide there's no need for any stripping of the brakes as long as you don't find one that's seized. You only need to remove each wheel. 

All you'll need is a jack, obviously, and a pry bar or long flat bladed screwdriver and or, a clamp. 

Use the pry bar, screwdriver or clamp to compress the brake caliper until it moves toward the offside of the hub, or toward you, then, if the pins are running freely you'll be able to grab the caliper and check that it's moving freely. 

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Would love it if there was even a way to do this without removing the wheels but so far this is the least time intensive method I have seen - thanks! What if you had access to a pit, but from the above looks like you need access to both sides of the caliper to test this? Need to find time to check mine!

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Sorry and to check, does the handbrake need to be off and car in Park, Neutral or Drive? Assume if handbrake off and Neutral need to chock block the other wheels?

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Lexus have disc brakes all around with an independent parking brake so the parking brake remains on with the vehicle in Park. For safety reasons use a suitable trolley jack and axle stands not the scissor jack. A wheel chock is normally located in the boot toolkit.

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Remember to pump the the brake pedal before you move the car. This will get the callipers/pads back into the correct setting, but importantly only pump the pedal with very short presses as you don’t want to trigger the valve which splits the braking system front to rear.

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6 hours ago, Maxz said:

Sorry and to check, does the handbrake need to be off and car in Park, Neutral or Drive? Assume if handbrake off and Neutral need to chock block the other wheels?

I did mine on level ground with the parking brake off, box in park. Even loosening the wheel nuts didn't move the car. If you apply the parking brake out won't make any difference, the caliper will still move for the check. 

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6 hours ago, Maxz said:

Would love it if there was even a way to do this without removing the wheels but so far this is the least time intensive method I have seen - thanks! What if you had access to a pit, but from the above looks like you need access to both sides of the caliper to test this? Need to find time to check mine!

You could buy a clamp that's long enough to stretch from the wheel spoke to the back of the caliper! Align the wheel correctly and you're fine as long as the caliper can be observed clearly. 

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  • 5 weeks later...

I was thinking of an easier way to do this last time i changed my brakes  but thought if I'm going to the effort of jacking car up, taking wheels off. Its hardly a hassle to undo 1 screw, rotate the cylinder body and check properly.

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Depending on the model you can get to the rears by crawling under the car, undo the bolt and take out, re-lube, and put back one at a time. No jacking up or taking wheels off.

Fronts you may be able to do just putting the steering on full lock.

Certainly easy on the RX, not sure about the IS.

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I recently noticed a lot more brake dust on front near side wheel compared to opposite. Thought it would be the slider pins. Purchased new set for 4 wheels. When mechanic had a look, discovered it was a sticking piston - slightly rusty. Slider pins were fine but a bit dry on other 3 wheels.

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This video is someone lubricating the slide pins on an Avensis but I'd imagine they'd be very similar if not identical on a lexus

 

 

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It could be the official Toyota grease, I use RRB (Red RubberGrease) to ensure the rubber collars fitted on the pins (if fitted ) don’t get damaged, it appears to have a similar viscosity.

I didn’t see any pad shims or pull off springs fitted on the car he was working on either but it covers the pin lubrication process clearly.

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  • 1 month later...

Those of you not brave enough or like me without convenient access/tools to complete, just got all my slide pins greased today at Lexus Sidcup, came to just under £100 including the VAT. Now this is done on my 5 year old vehicle (which they also stated had 10mm left on the pads if relevant), when would this need inspecting and/or greasing again? Car only covers 5k miles max per year.

Also if it helps this is the stuff they use.

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