PeterTorbet

Engine Paint / Rust Paint recommendations?

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In the midst of my DIY service I'm changing the serpentine belt (and water pump) and noticed how rusted up the various pulleys are. If I sand this away, does anyone have recommendations on what to paint over the remains with? lots of rusted bits on the car that I want to treat and paint over.

belt.thumb.jpg.223ae7e6d99708d6d41efddac03bf9ed.jpg

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Kurust followed by smooth hammerite perhaps? 

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After the rust treatment solution perhaps mask off the belt contact areas and then spray Hammerite rather than brush it on to avoid excess build up. While you have the tensioner and idler pulleys off replace the bearings, they only cost a few pounds for decent replacements and take a few minutes to do. I would also give that green gilled earth wire a good examination and clean to prevent any potential faults in the future.

Don’t forget the tensioner bolt is reverse threaded.

F0BB9A5D-A919-47E4-8472-8896A6F07CCD.jpeg

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5 hours ago, steve2006 said:

After the rust treatment solution perhaps mask off the belt contact areas and then spray Hammerite rather than brush it on to avoid excess build up. While you have the tensioner and idler pulleys off replace the bearings, they only cost a few pounds for decent replacements and take a few minutes to do. I would also give that green gilled earth wire a good examination and clean to prevent any potential faults in the future.

Don’t forget the tensioner bolt is reverse threaded.

F0BB9A5D-A919-47E4-8472-8896A6F07CCD.jpeg

Brilliant advice, ordered the bearings - £6 well spent methinks! and I'll take a look at the green gunk earth cable 🙂 

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Just thought, you have the 460, I just hope that the bearings are the same as those in the picture are for the 400.

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1 hour ago, steve2006 said:

Just thought, you have the 460, I just hope that the bearings are the same as those in the picture are for the 400.

I tried to double-check myself but got nowhere so thought I'd order and compare. I've downloaded the workshop manual, but it'll only tun on ye olde windows laptop with IE5.5, when I have a newer MacBook Pro. Currently looking for an old laptop for cheap!

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4 hours ago, PeterTorbet said:

I tried to double-check myself but got nowhere so thought I'd order and compare. I've downloaded the workshop manual, but it'll only tun on ye olde windows laptop with IE5.5, when I have a newer MacBook Pro. Currently looking for an old laptop for cheap!

Same problem here as I use an ipad, just ordered a cheap refurbished laptop for the same reason for £99.00, Windows 10, has a DVD drive and 12 month warranty. None left at that price I got the last one sorry

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOSHIBA-SALE-NOW-ON-FAST-CHEAP-LAPTOPS-WINDOWS-10-FULL-1-YEARS-WARRANTY-WI-FI/283827812337?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=585310417515&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

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3 hours ago, steve2006 said:

Same problem here as I use an ipad, just ordered a cheap refurbished laptop for the same reason for £99.00, Windows 10, has a DVD drive and 12 month warranty. None left at that price I got the last one sorry

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOSHIBA-SALE-NOW-ON-FAST-CHEAP-LAPTOPS-WINDOWS-10-FULL-1-YEARS-WARRANTY-WI-FI/283827812337?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=585310417515&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Nice! And it runs fine on Windows 10 and whatever browser that came with? 

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On 5/9/2020 at 9:35 AM, steve2006 said:

After the rust treatment solution perhaps mask off the belt contact areas and then spray Hammerite rather than brush it on to avoid excess build up. While you have the tensioner and idler pulleys off replace the bearings, they only cost a few pounds for decent replacements and take a few minutes to do. I would also give that green gilled earth wire a good examination and clean to prevent any potential faults in the future.

Don’t forget the tensioner bolt is reverse threaded.

F0BB9A5D-A919-47E4-8472-8896A6F07CCD.jpeg

Turns out I bought the wrong bearings 😕 so treated myself to new tensioner / pulley / idle. Also polished up the earth cable and took the (Dremel) grinder to the radiator support panel, then Kurust, then Hammerite. Also drilled out and re-threaded a sheared bolt on the slam panel where the Hammerite really brought the thing back to life! Next steps, radiator and AC condenser!

 

 

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Good job, although the teddy bear looks a bit concerned!

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On 5/9/2020 at 11:56 PM, PeterTorbet said:

Nice! And it runs fine on Windows 10 and whatever browser that came with? 

Yep the manuals are on and now accessible again. FSX is a different matter as it only loads the demo mode despite it having a product key.

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Bit curious Peter, was there a Panel (undertray) under the engine bay when you bought it? 

Is it common to have so much rust for a Car of this age or has the owner been ploughing through a Ford on their way to work, daily?

Leaving the under tray off is not a good idea. Heavy Rain, puddles etc. are held back from doing the sort of damage  your Car appears to have in terms of rust.

Well doen you for sorting it.  

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8 hours ago, runsgrateasanut said:

Bit curious Peter, was there a Panel (undertray) under the engine bay when you bought it? 

Is it common to have so much rust for a Car of this age or has the owner been ploughing through a Ford on their way to work, daily?

Leaving the under tray off is not a good idea. Heavy Rain, puddles etc. are held back from doing the sort of damage  your Car appears to have in terms of rust.

Well doen you for sorting it.  

Yup, there was, but lots of fixings missing, likewise around the wheelarch liners. I think (looking at the history) it had a great time up until 90,000 miles then the official Lexus service stopped. Lots of little brackets related to the suspension need serious treatment/replacing. Enjoying the challenge though! (Other half a bit concerned about mounting costs though; I keep telling her this work would be thousands at a garage) 

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