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Hi guys 

Unfortunately driving to work today car started shuddering and the CEL came on. I limped it back home and the check hybrid message came up. 

I will check the codes using obd tonight, but has anyone any knowledge of this. 

I'm worrying that I'm looking at an engine rebuild or Battery refurb at only 50k miles, and honestly am really annoyed at one of the supposedly most reliable cars available 

Thanks 

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Hello Rameez,

CEL ???

How long have you had the 450h ?

Where did you get it from ?

Full Lexus Service History?

Date of last service ?

Date of last M.O.T. ?

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It could be a list of reasons for this dont jump the gun and think the car needs major surgery

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It might be due to a fault with the inverter. It might be wise to not go out in it again in case you get stranded. But the fault code(s) should give you the diagnosis.

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Roy

CEL - check engine light or EML as some people call it 

I've had it since January, bought it privately, full lexus/independant  service history prior to me owning it. When I got it I got it serviced by a local garage using parts I ordered that I wanted doing. Last mot November. 

 

Alan

Thanks I hope your right, last year I bought a trusty subaru legacy which lunched its engine within a couple months of me owning it. 

 

Gs300h2014

It's parked at my house I drove it a few hundred meters. Am driving my wife's car now. I will be reading the code tonight. 

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57 minutes ago, Rameez said:

Roy

CEL - check engine light or EML as some people call it 

I've had it since January, bought it privately, full lexus/independant  service history prior to me owning it. When I got it I got it serviced by a local garage using parts I ordered that I wanted doing. Last mot November. 

 

Alan

Thanks I hope your right, last year I bought a trusty subaru legacy which lunched its engine within a couple months of me owning it. 

 

Gs300h2014

It's parked at my house I drove it a few hundred meters. Am driving my wife's car now. I will be reading the code tonight. 

Thanks Rameez. Sorry about all of the questions,but at least all Members now have framework within which your problem can be considered.

50k miles is low for 13 years and relates to an average of just under 4k per year. It has just been tootling about,

I agree with you that the codes need to be read, but what was it that you asked your local garage to do just after you bought it?

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Roy 

Just the usual oil filters brakes etc 

I have read the codes 

The logged code is 

P0356 Ignition Coil "F" Primary/Secondary Circuit 

The pending codes are 

P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire detected 

P0304 P0305 P0306 (cylinder Misfire 4 5 and 6) 

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43 minutes ago, Rameez said:

Roy 

Just the usual oil filters brakes etc 

I have read the codes 

The logged code is 

P0356 Ignition Coil "F" Primary/Secondary Circuit 

The pending codes are 

P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire detected 

P0304 P0305 P0306 (cylinder Misfire 4 5 and 6) 

Interestingly, this has just been posted on a MB Forum Eameez

"Mercedes C180K - 2006 (W203)
Engine M271
100,000 miles

My C180K will not start and if it does it sounds like a diesel tractor and runs rough. Can anyone help me detect the reason because due to Covid 19 i can't take it to a garage and i need the car to use to shop etc.

It all started the one morning when the car started up fine but had a rough idle. I could rev the engine cleanly but it would idle rough. I took the car on a drive and it was fine on the motorway for 30 miles but it still idled roughly when stationary. I then made the return journey about 2 hours later and the car ran fine again but still had an idle issue. Once i had reached my destination i tried to start the engine again about an hour later and the engine ran really badly and sounded like a diesel tractor so i immediately turned it off. I used my handheld code reader and got teh following codes:

P0301, P0302, P0301, but not P0304 All codes are listed as Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0325 - Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Bank 1 or Single Sensor
P0341 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1 or Single Sensor

I have replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor with a new one thinking that was the issue but the problem still exists

I called the roadside recovery company (AA Ireland) and they called out. He tried to start the engine but couldn't get it started. He took out all of the plugs and visually inspected them and none of them were damp or showed particular signs of wear. He tried to start the car again and he managed to get it started and but it was running really rough. He couldn't identify what the issue was and told me to take it to a garage and get them to stick it on their machine.

I do have very oily camshaft magnets. I took them off and cleaned the oil away. There was a trace of oil on one of the terminals which i have cleaned. I traced the wires back to the ECU and there was a small amount of oil at the end of a lead but i can't be sure if this is the camshaft magnet lead. I have seen online that i can test the magnet by attaching a 12v Battery and placing an electrical meter inline to the magnet and then by moving a metal spanner around the magnet i should be able to see if the magnet generates a signal. I haven't done this yet but will try to do it next. I have no idea how to test the leads though so if someone can advise on testing that the leads to the magnet give a signal/volt then i would love to hear from you.

So basically, can anyone help diagnose my non-start and rough idle. I don't want to keep replacing potential problem parts with new ones as i don't have much spare cash following Covid work restrictions.

Thanks in advance for any help you guys can provide "
 

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59 minutes ago, Rameez said:

The logged code is 

P0356 Ignition Coil "F" Primary/Secondary Circuit 

This is a hard electrical fault which the ECU cannot misinterpret - almost certainly the coil pack at fault. You could swap the coil packs to see if the fault moves to the new cylinder, or check the electrical connector for corrosion before getting a new coil pack.

The pending errors are a result of the primary fault and nothing to worry about.

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Thanks guys 

I'm very relieved. 

Is it safe to slowly drive to the garage as I don't do any mechanical work myself (no skills) 

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Recovery would be the best option if you have cover, if not it’s at your own risk to drive it there....a short drive shouldn’t make thing worse or cause more damage.

 

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Hopefully its an easy fix so, best of luck and keep us posted

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So all fixed phew! 

The mechanic changed the plugs first, error was still there. (£105 for the plugs) 

Then changed 1 faulty coil pack, all problems solved (£55). 

£60 for Labour, £220 all in. 

I'm happy with that.

thanks for all the input. 

Here's hoping for problem free driving from now. 

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21 minutes ago, Rameez said:

So all fixed phew! 

The mechanic changed the plugs first, error was still there. (£105 for the plugs) 

Then changed 1 faulty coil pack, all problems solved (£55). 

£60 for Labour, £220 all in. 

I'm happy with that.

thanks for all the input. 

Here's hoping for problem free driving from now. 

Thanks for the complete feedback Rameez.

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