Guest Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 Had a play with front logo. Partly to test durability of plasti dip before doing any trims. Has anyone done the rear badges? Don't want to remove them so was thinking of using blu tac to mask them off. Is this a bad idea? Any tips? Anyway, I like the look at the front more with this colour. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bluethunder 114 Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 I tried to do the side window chrome surround in black plasti dip but couldn't get a good finish so ended up peeling it off.. There's a white RCF on AT with the rear badges in black and some nice carbon bits. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 I started to wrap the sides but my of patience and worry about slicing a seal or the paint made me give up. So at least it was easy to peel off then? The badge coated really well with about 4 costs and then i laquered itSent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Silkmen 58 Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 I took my car to have the chrome window surrounds wrapped. However I was told the finish wouldn't be up to spec due to the lack of give in the rubber seals. They were unable to tuck the wrap under the rubber and declined the job. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 Thanks for that info. Very useful. [emoji106]Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bluethunder 114 Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 3 hours ago, Comedian said: I started to wrap the sides but my of patience and worry about slicing a seal or the paint made me give up. So at least it was easy to peel off then? The badge coated really well with about 4 costs and then i laquered it Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk It's fairly easy to peel off if it's a thick coat. Was a real pain to mask off the bodywork though!.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Northern isf 268 Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 i did my rear badges just took a picture and measurements of their location and removed them, i did that way as to create an all round bond if you have exposed edges it will ware away over time and cleaning. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NothernDan 966 Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 28 minutes ago, Northern isf said: i did my rear badges just took a picture and measurements of their location and removed them, i did that way as to create an all round bond if you have exposed edges it will ware away over time and cleaning. Errrrrr, might be missing something here gents but you plastidip the badges with the badges on the car! After its dried for a few hours the plastidip just peels off the bodywork and breaks at the junction between the bodywork and the logos. You just mask off a square around the logos and paint the whole square. Did mine when I first got the car but went back to standard after a few months. No need to remove the logos to plastidip them. That's the whole point of plastidip! Or am I missing something here!?! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted August 3, 2020 Share Posted August 3, 2020 14 hours ago, NothernDan said: After its dried for a few hours the plastidip just peels off the bodywork and breaks at the junction between the bodywork and the logos. You just mask off a square around the logos and paint the whole square. Fantastic thanks, I will try that! Always like the path of least effort - this is exatly why I asked and really did not want to remove them and try and get them back on straight. They use templates at the factory I understand? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Northern isf 268 Posted August 3, 2020 Share Posted August 3, 2020 20 hours ago, NothernDan said: Errrrrr, might be missing something here gents but you plastidip the badges with the badges on the car! After its dried for a few hours the plastidip just peels off the bodywork and breaks at the junction between the bodywork and the logos. You just mask off a square around the logos and paint the whole square. Did mine when I first got the car but went back to standard after a few months. No need to remove the logos to plastidip them. That's the whole point of plastidip! Or am I missing something here!?! Does a better job badge off as its got an exposed edge which will eventually peel off,each to there own though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gb1600e 136 Posted August 3, 2020 Share Posted August 3, 2020 On 8/2/2020 at 8:23 PM, NothernDan said: Errrrrr, might be missing something here gents but you plastidip the badges with the badges on the car! After its dried for a few hours the plastidip just peels off the bodywork and breaks at the junction between the bodywork and the logos. You just mask off a square around the logos and paint the whole square. Did mine when I first got the car but went back to standard after a few months. No need to remove the logos to plastidip them. That's the whole point of plastidip! Or am I missing something here!?! I've seen this platidip method on YouTube and was it two minds if it actually worked. I get the theory but glad to know it works in practice. Might get my big boy pants on at the weekend and give it a go as my rear badges need a spruce up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 15 hours ago, Northern isf said: Does a better job badge off as its got an exposed edge which will eventually peel off,each to there own though. I can appreciate this but I really want to take the easier option first and if that doesn't work may have to make a template to get them back on in the same place. Plasti dip seems to be a really low risk process. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NothernDan 966 Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 3 hours ago, Comedian said: I can appreciate this but I really want to take the easier option first and if that doesn't work may have to make a template to get them back on in the same place. Plasti dip seems to be a really low risk process. Mine stayed on despite a billion jetwashes, done exactly at outlined above. It's sticky stuff but does peel easily when you need to get it off. Actually couldn't believe how easy it was to apply when I first did it, the process is very simple. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 I'm not sure which Northern is best so logically it just makes sense to do the one that requires least work first! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NothernDan 966 Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 8 hours ago, Comedian said: I'm not sure which Northern is best so logically it just makes sense to do the one that requires least work first! 😂😂😂 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Northern isf 268 Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 On 8/4/2020 at 12:11 PM, NothernDan said: Mine stayed on despite a billion jetwashes, done exactly at outlined above. It's sticky stuff but does peel easily when you need to get it off. Actually couldn't believe how easy it was to apply when I first did it, the process is very simple. i must have applied it wrong, didnt last me long at all at first time in second time i did it,well its still there no marks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Northern isf 268 Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 On 8/4/2020 at 12:58 PM, Comedian said: I'm not sure which Northern is best so logically it just makes sense to do the one that requires least work first! Always best to try the easy route first, plus you have to be really accurate when reapplying the emblems as if you get it even a mm out you know it will do your head in every time you look at it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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