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lexus is 300h battery warranty replacement


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Hello!

I own a is 300h 2017 with a mileage of 150.000km . The mpg is awful, when i drive it the hybrid recommended way - (i know exactly what that is), the best fuel consumption is 7,5l/100 km  combined (city+highway), and when i drive it like a normal car, it can go up to 10l/100km. The toyota official Battery check was OK so my warranty is extended, but I went to a specialized hybrid service that used an app to check my Battery health and it was around 70%. So my question is - is there a way to speed up the Battery going dead so i can benefit from the warranty and replace it as soon as possible?

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well i got it a few months ago and not when it was new so i cannot compare. i also replaced the wheels from 17 inch to 18 inch f sport and the fuel consumption has increased a little but not that much

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33 minutes ago, roces777 said:

the best fuel consumption is 7,5l/100 km  combined (city+highway), and when i drive it like a normal car, it can go up to 10l/100km.

I would think you should be getting around 6.5 l/100km (44 miles/UKgallon) over the long term. Is there anything that leads you to think it's the Battery that's at fault?

Much of the time the Battery isn't used very much. Except around town, I would think that the majority of the time the engine drives motor generator 1 (MG1) which produces electricity that drives MG2 (connected to the road wheels), without much input from the Battery. In addition, the resistance of MG1 pushes torque from the engine to the road wheels. That being the case, if you're using too much petrol, I'd be inclined to think that the first place you might look is the engine. This is an engine which when it was launched (around 2013) was claimed to be the most efficient production engine at 39.5% efficiency. If you're cruising on motorways and not getting 5.6 l/100km (50 mpg) I'd be inclined to think that the engine is taking in too much fuel rather than the traction Battery not having sufficient charge. I'm not sure how much help the Battery can give on long-distance cruising at speeds of, say, 110-120 kph.

But I'm no expert. Since you've caught ColinBarber's attention maybe he can make some suggestions. (Or correct what I've said above!)

I'd also be interested to know what the 70% health means. If it means 70% charge, that's well within the normal range of 40-80% charge. If it means something else, it would be interesting to have this clarified.

 

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19 minutes ago, Thackeray said:

I would think you should be getting around 6.5 l/100km (44 miles/UKgallon) over the long term. Is there anything that leads you to think it's the battery that's at fault?

Much of the time the battery isn't used very much. Except around town, I would think that the majority of the time the engine drives motor generator 1 (MG1) which produces electricity that drives MG2 (connected to the road wheels), without much input from the battery. In addition, the resistance of MG1 pushes torque from the engine to the road wheels. That being the case, if you're using too much petrol, I'd be inclined to think that the first place you might look is the engine. This is an engine which when it was launched (around 2013) was claimed to be the most efficient production engine at 39.5% efficiency. If you're cruising on motorways and not getting 5.6 l/100km (50 mpg) I'd be inclined to think that the engine is taking in too much fuel rather than the traction battery not having sufficient charge. I'm not sure how much help the battery can give on long-distance cruising at speeds of, say, 110-120 kph.

But I'm no expert. Since you've caught ColinBarber's attention maybe he can make some suggestions. (Or correct what I've said above!)

I'd also be interested to know what the 70% health means. If it means 70% charge, that's well within the normal range of 40-80% charge. If it means something else, it would be interesting to have this clarified.

 

it was an app that connected to an obd interface and you had to hold the acceleration and break pedal for let's say 10-15 minutes, while the Battery was charging, and at the end the app concluded that the Battery life was 70%, maybe based on the time it took to charge or someting else

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Does the petrol engine shut down and run in EV only mode once up to temperature when cruising or stopping at a junction? If you are travelling at a constant 100 kmph on flat road what rpm is the engine running at - it should be less than 2000 rpm, if more then the system is charing the Battery in addition to just propelling the vehicle which could indicate an issue.

Normally high mpg is caused by an initialisation problem that stops the engine shutting down and therefore consuming more fuel but that is more associated with older hybrid systems (Prius II or RX400h for example).

Check your 12v aux Battery is good and holding charge.

Also check things outside the hybrid system aren't causing a problem - e.g. are the brakes binding slightly which is causing excessive drag and poor economy.

 

Having 70% Battery capacity compared to say 90% isn't going to cause that much difference to economy in normal driving. Normally the vehicle tries to keep the Battery around 50% charged and will only use around 25% either side of that.

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Is this fuel consumption you mention measured by the on board computer? If so, you really need to drive it a while to get good results after a reset. Best to reset it after refuel and then not touch it until you fuel up again. There is also “consumption after refuel” somewhere in the menus. 

Here in hilly Switzerland I get about 5.2-5.4 l/100km with some city, mostly highway driving in my 2013 is300h with 17” wheels on primacy 4 tyres (according to the onboard computer, that is).

I’d say indeed check the brakes - sliding pins tend to stick. Also you might want to clean your hybrid fan filter at that mileage (not done during service). There is a how to on this forum. 

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1 hour ago, roces777 said:

t was an app that connected to an obd interface and you had to hold the acceleration and break pedal for let's say 10-15 minutes, while the battery was charging, and at the end the app concluded that the battery life was 70%, maybe based on the time it took to charge or someting else

It would be interesting to know what the 70% referred to. Does it mean it has 70% of its life remaining?

Here's an app that tests hybrid Battery health but it doesn't refer to a percentage figure for health, so it would be useful to understand what this refers to.

 

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8 hours ago, roces777 said:

it was an app that connected to an obd interface and you had to hold the acceleration and break pedal for let's say 10-15 minutes, while the battery was charging, and at the end the app concluded that the battery life was 70%, maybe based on the time it took to charge or someting else

 

Am sorry that just sounds ridiculous, and probably utterly useless to determine the SOC or Battery health on a traction Battery.

 

Even on my Tesla the Battery computer can only 'guesstimate' the health of the Battery with an error margin of up to 5%. That's an EV with one of the most advanced Battery management computers, ths method you have stated to guesstimate Battery health is essential useless.

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150,000 km is about 95,000 miles I believe.

My IS300h has over 260,000kms/168,000 miles on the clock and is still running its original traction Battery without any issues at all.
My fuel consumption is about 45-50 mph on a long run and 40-45 mpg around town which is about a loss of 10% over its performance 100,000 miles ago


Sent from my Iphone using Tapatalk

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Our  2015 IS300h has 28,000 miles on the clock and has an "indicated" average of  about 52 mpg. We don't use it  around town.

Mostly on A roads, dual carriageways and motorways.  I've never had the Battery indicator fully lit up, often get all but one showing..

 

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Better having a Hybrid Health Check at an official Lexus. 

I suspect that poor mpg is a problem of thermal engine.: has it been regularly serviced ? Is the oil the original Toyota 5W-20? And do brakes leave wheels free to spin ?

 

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15 hours ago, Zotto said:

Better having a Hybrid Health Check at an official Lexus. 

I suspect that poor mpg is a problem of thermal engine.: has it been regularly serviced ? Is the oil the original Toyota 5W-20? And do brakes leave wheels free to spin ?

 

The recommended oil is 0w-20. 5w-20 is thicker and may have an impact on fuel economy.

From the handbook:

image.thumb.png.8f41f39a29e8cc9485dd8f2da5c65551.png

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