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IS220d loss of power!


woodywally
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Hi guys, new member here!

I've just bought a very cheap IS220d last week. I knew that the alternator needed a change as it wasn't charging the Battery, and I knew there was power loss. I changed the alternator and now it charges. Problem one solved. Problem 2, power loss...

Now I need to make it clear that there are no lights or warnings up on the dash, not are there any errors thrown up by code checker.

I thought it could be the DPF that was causing back pressure, as initially, when you put your foot down and let up the clutch the car jolts like it wants to fly away... Then all power is gone, and you find yourself getting beaten off the line by a 1.2 corsa. Needless to say, no performance what so ever. I've given the EGR a clean and, to be honest, it didn't look that bad to begin with. Just something I needed to check off my list. There is no white residue on the bottom side of the oil cap, so no head gasket issue. 

I gave the car a good run out on the duel carrageway the other evening with some BG245 in the fuel tank to see if I could clear anything out that needed to be. It seems 5% better from it, but still way under power. 

So here comes my question. When the DPF is the issue, does it always throw up an engine light or error code, or can that sometimes just not happen?

Second question. Any one on here ever had the same feeling car? 

Third question. How can I check if the EGR valve is actually working correctly? It's clean, and the valve works perfectly when looking at it off the vehicle, but how do I know that the motor on it is actually actively controlling it correctly? Same questions as to the operation of turbo. How do I know that's working?

One more bit of info for you. The car revs fine when not moving and not in gear, so one would assume it's fine unless there is any load on engine...

I hope someone can point me in the right direction. Thanks again

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On 10/19/2020 at 12:12 AM, woodywally said:

Hi guys, new member here!

I've just bought a very cheap IS220d last week. I knew that the alternator needed a change as it wasn't charging the battery, and I knew there was power loss. I changed the alternator and now it charges. Problem one solved. Problem 2, power loss...

Now I need to make it clear that there are no lights or warnings up on the dash, not are there any errors thrown up by code checker.

I thought it could be the DPF that was causing back pressure, as initially, when you put your foot down and let up the clutch the car jolts like it wants to fly away... Then all power is gone, and you find yourself getting beaten off the line by a 1.2 corsa. Needless to say, no performance what so ever. I've given the EGR a clean and, to be honest, it didn't look that bad to begin with. Just something I needed to check off my list. There is no white residue on the bottom side of the oil cap, so no head gasket issue. 

I gave the car a good run out on the duel carrageway the other evening with some BG245 in the fuel tank to see if I could clear anything out that needed to be. It seems 5% better from it, but still way under power. 

So here comes my question. When the DPF is the issue, does it always throw up an engine light or error code, or can that sometimes just not happen?

Second question. Any one on here ever had the same feeling car? 

Third question. How can I check if the EGR valve is actually working correctly? It's clean, and the valve works perfectly when looking at it off the vehicle, but how do I know that the motor on it is actually actively controlling it correctly? Same questions as to the operation of turbo. How do I know that's working?

One more bit of info for you. The car revs fine when not moving and not in gear, so one would assume it's fine unless there is any load on engine...

I hope someone can point me in the right direction. Thanks again

A little update, for anyone who might reply haha...

I had the engine put on a hydrogen run and got the DPF checked. Not the issue. I also changed the fuel filter and also not the issue. Now I'm sure its electrical. But now, I have no further ideas as to how id go about finding out the problems origin.. Very frustrating, as the engine is in very good condition, in fact, the whole car is. Just the fact that it doesn't pull.

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It would seem to me that the whole point about diesel engines is that they are not dependent on electrical supplies or spark ignition. The injection pump sucks fuel from the tank and combustion is auto ignite. If your intake (fuel filter) & output (DPF) is unobstructed & your fuel unpolluted then that suggests your fuel injection pump is not responding to the your accelerator pedal.

However having said all that here's a IS220D review:  

After years of relying on a thirsty petrol-only model range in the premium upper-medium sector, the IS now has, on paper at least, the engine to challenge the dominant diesel models from Audi, BMW and Mercedes-Benz. But whereas the diesel versions of these three cars are, in the main, better all-round drives than their petrol stablemates, the IS220d isn’t.

The 175bhp four-cylinder common rail unit in the IS220d has a big power advantage over its three German rivals, and the rear-wheel drive chassis suggests it will have the ride and handling to challenge the 3-series. All well and good, except there’s a real problem with the performance. Sure, the engine is smooth and refined, but combined with a gearbox with incredibly long ratios, it simply isn’t quick enough. Factor in a hefty kerb weight of more than 1,600kg (almost as much as the bigger GS model) and progress is frustratingly slow.

The real villain of the piece is the gearbox, with its overly long ratios which conspire to smother any of the engine’s potential – and we know what this unit can offer having driven it in various Toyota models where it displays much more vigour. In the IS220d, when you press the accelerator very little happens until the gearing allows the engine to reach around 2,000rpm when the peak torque level is found.

Things continue as you progress through the six-speed gearbox, with the process repeated until you reach fourth gear and the torque level becomes more accessible. In Sport trim level you get a different gearbox with shorter ratios which are claimed to boost acceleration times by a third. It’s a shame this unit isn’t available on all specifications.

While performance isn’t brilliant, at least the IS220d is a comfortable driving companion, with a well-balanced blend of comfort and handling.

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Check that the catalytic converter is not blocked.

 Check the fuel pump delivery pressure to the high pressure pump feeding the injectors. Check the fuel pressure before the injectors.

Check that the fuel injectors are not blocked and for correct fuel atomisation and spray pattern. You need a specialist do that.

Try fuel injection cleaning chemicals to clean the injectors and the fuel system.

Inspect the inlet valves for carbon build up. If you have a direct injection engine, this may be another cause of engine power loss.

Always begin with the easy items to check and the least costly.

Chris.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys, 

Thanks for all the replies. I ran through most of what has been mentioned above, and it wasn't that. After finding myself losing sleep over the problem, I literally went outside at 10.30pm a couple of days ago with a torch. Stuck it under the bonnet and started checking off every part I could see.

I found the culprit! And it was so ridiculously easy to solve.. But terribly hard to diagnose. 

The pipe that leads out of the EGR valve component 'the bottom one with a 90 degree angle on it' had split and was hanging away from the EGR. The pipe is about 4mm wide and was the sole reason the car couldn't accelerate. I'm guessing it leads to the turbo and is a vacuum hose of sorts!? Not a clue... All I know is that I can now sleep!

 

Thanks again everyone, but luckily, it took a very frustrated man on the brink of sleep deprivation to sort this one...

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/30/2020 at 1:18 PM, woodywally said:

Hi guys, 

Thanks for all the replies. I ran through most of what has been mentioned above, and it wasn't that. After finding myself losing sleep over the problem, I literally went outside at 10.30pm a couple of days ago with a torch. Stuck it under the bonnet and started checking off every part I could see.

I found the culprit! And it was so ridiculously easy to solve.. But terribly hard to diagnose. 

The pipe that leads out of the EGR valve component 'the bottom one with a 90 degree angle on it' had split and was hanging away from the EGR. The pipe is about 4mm wide and was the sole reason the car couldn't accelerate. I'm guessing it leads to the turbo and is a vacuum hose of sorts!? Not a clue... All I know is that I can now sleep!

 

Thanks again everyone, but luckily, it took a very frustrated man on the brink of sleep deprivation to sort this one...

What essentially happened there is you lost a crap ton of boost pressure since the exhaust was not contained within the turbine housing, so the turbo never spooled up to it's operating RPM. Nice catch, tbh I don't think I would have had the patience to catch that one.

Just got my 220d yesterday and so far I'm freaking loving it.

It is really hard to notice that you only have 175hp when that turbo kicks in.

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