Do Not Sell My Personal Information Jump to content


New member and owner


Pahino.IS200
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys Just wanted to let you know that im new on the club, also i just bought an IS200 about 2 week ago with 370K here in Spain, the car is in mint condition However the owner when sold it to me let me know that the engine felt sluggish when hot after he have it parked for about 6 months i did a full service except timing belt seems fine to me still but new plugs, oil, cleaned the throttle body by taking it of the car and cleaning it deeply, we don't have a maf only a temp sensor and a map which i also cleaned, checked for bacuum leaks and nothing and after driving it it has improved a little bit but still if you floor it when hot you notice some hesitation and vibration like if it had a misfire but no code, also the owner told me about replacing the cats bc he thought they were bad so i took the manifold out, cut the precat and took them out, the 1 one for cyl 1 to 3 was missing like a 1/3rd of the core and the second one was intact but took it out also, putted the bacuum on the side were the y pipe connect to see if any of the remains of the cat was loose in there but nothing came out, now the car sound even better and has a bit more of power but still hesitates when hot when floored between 2k and 3.5k like a misfire but no codes what so ever just the normal catalityc below threshole bank 1 but there are no precat on either side just the main one so i don't have any idea, however i haven unplugged the Battery for the famous reset of the ECU that i see everywhere so what should i do? and the car idles perfectly just that hesitation when hot if i floor it before it gets to temp it drives perfectly.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Buenos Dias Jose y bienvenidos al LOC,

I would certainly be looking at replacing the timing belt kit and water pump  if there is no recorded change date at that mileage, you sound mechanically minded so the job is fairly straightforward.

Two other maintenance items are the fuel filter and the VVTI micro filter which supplies oil to the camshaft timing components.

Another item to check especially as the fault appears to be temperature related is the engine CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) which could be giving false readings to the engine ECU which in turn could cause running problems.

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, steve2006 said:

Buenos Dias Jose y bienvenidos al LOC,

I would certainly be looking at replacing the timing belt kit and water pump  if there is no recorded change date at that mileage, you sound mechanically minded so the job is fairly straightforward.

Two other maintenance items are the fuel filter and the VVTI micro filter which supplies oil to the camshaft timing components.

Another item to check especially as the fault appears to be temperature related is the engine CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) which could be giving false readings to the engine ECU which in turn could cause running problems.

 

 

 

 

sorry i didn't detailed that, so the timing belt im not replacing it due to the fact that i do have history of it plus im a mechanic my self for vw audi though but i always wanted this car, that's a good advice ill do that change the CTS and also did cleaned the vvti solenoid and mesh it looked not new but barely any oil staining and no dirt or slush what so ever 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

according the the manual i till have 30k before replacing it or 2 more years but im pretty sure ill do those 30k sooner than expected plus there a lot of build up inside the cylinders i don't know if that has anything to do. but i been driving like a maniac for a couple of days and it haves improved a little

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You’re welcome,

Not sure how you feel about petrol additives but maybe a dose of injector cleaner wouldn’t hurt if the car has been used for short local journeys in the past.

The CTS is the usual culprit for fuelling problems when the engine is warm along with the CPS causing non starts when hot, not heard of any engine ECU problems but they are common on some older models due to capacitor failures.

Update us with progress please....all information helps 😀

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, steve2006 said:

You’re welcome,

Not sure how you feel about petrol additives but maybe a dose of injector cleaner wouldn’t hurt if the car has been used for short local journeys in the past.

The CTS is the usual culprit for fuelling problems when the engine is warm along with the CPS causing non starts when hot, not heard of any engine ECU problems but they are common on some older models due to capacitor failures.

Update us with progress please....all information helps 😀

of course i will keep u guys updated in the next couple of days

 

also the car start fine even when hot just the hesitation when hot

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Here are a couple of pictures of the state of the car is all stock including paint job.

Btw for reason i disconnected the Battery dont know why but now im having issues with the tb motor and a cell light so now as im typing im also cleaning it and lubricating absolutely everything from inside to outside piece by piece ill give answers soon

20201028_170205.jpg

20201028_170140.jpg

20201028_170155.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/27/2020 at 1:09 PM, steve2006 said:

You’re welcome,

Not sure how you feel about petrol additives but maybe a dose of injector cleaner wouldn’t hurt if the car has been used for short local journeys in the past.

The CTS is the usual culprit for fuelling problems when the engine is warm along with the CPS causing non starts when hot, not heard of any engine ECU problems but they are common on some older models due to capacitor failures.

Update us with progress please....all information helps 😀

Any ideas of the tb electric motor being locked?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Assembled everything and still no luck, however i did notice this when i put the ignition on but dont turn the key over the tb works perfectly but once i turn on the engine it stops working and for some weird reason now my obd wont connect to the ecu so I'm thinking there must be a blown fuse bc all works good until i turn over the key and run the engine and after unplugging the Battery the obd doesnt seems to work properly now I'm going to cook but once i finish ill check all the fuses

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Checked all the fuses and all good but the issue was still there, so something told me to check the ecu directly bc of the previous comment just in case to see if there was any problem with the capacitors or something and for my surprise theres oil in the ecu plug so it might have been shorting it out now i will clean it let me show it 

16039884011168464542690430601477.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stiĺl no luck, i turn the car on, the tb works for a minute but it idle supper low then CEL comes on, track light flashes and then the tb stops working, the idles goes almost to 2k, still no connection with the obd port but it does get energy and the device connects to my phone but it wont connect to the ecu i dont know what more to do, guys really i need help i tried everything cleaned the ecu in depth so after that the car works fine then it does what i mentioned before i have no clue no blown fuses or anything please some help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


New update, did a Battery removal again, left it out for 15 mins and reinstalled again, this time when i cycled the key turn it to run position but didn't crank the engine for about 5 mins after that turn it off took the key out and cycled back on this time i did turn over the engine, car starts and now the obd can connect but the iddle its so low that the car after 3 minutes disabled the ETB so now I'm going to take the tb out again to change the position on the TPS which seem to be too low, so i think my remaining issue is that will post in a couple of minutes to see it this was the remaining issue. And the codes that the obd read was only related to the TPS being too low so the engine turn off the ETB to rise the rpm so i think this is the solution, set TPS on factory position.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello again guys so to finish this post i just uploaded a video on youtube with a brief explanation of one of the things ill be doing with the car, please check it out and any idea or request will be greatly welcomed. 

Thanks for your help, support and future suggestions. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Pahino. Excellent thread you started. Glad to learn you have sorted issues you've had with your car. Mind you after 370 thousand km there's bound to be issues. I look forward to viewing your progress with your car. Good luck with what you do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
On 11/1/2020 at 8:06 PM, Mr Vlad said:

Hi Pahino. Excellent thread you started. Glad to learn you have sorted issues you've had with your car. Mind you after 370 thousand km there's bound to be issues. I look forward to viewing your progress with your car. Good luck with what you do.

Yeah it could be normal at this mileage but this car was the one in the million, the previous and second owner of the vehicle is an ex rally driver so he took an excellent care of the vehicle in all the aspects even so that the car is running the second clutch set from factory and there's plenty of grip on it, my only disappointment is that is an open diff but besides that, after doing precats and main cat delete because one of the precats disintegrated clogged the main one and other thing the previous owner kinda babied the engine so there was a ton buildup on the piston head and intake manifold so did a water mist cleaning, injector cleaner on more one which ended clogging  the main cat to the point that the car wouldn't rev pass 4k after a minute of turning it on and the vacuum would drop almost to 0 by just touching the acc pedal, so took the y pipe out before the main cat since the car was with no precats for a month or so and walla, all the problems were gone including codes for engine running rich in both banks and the p0420.

 

Soo in the car is perfect in everything including compression, fuel pressure and all, only thing out of normal is the temp shown by the iat ordered a new sensor if problem persists i will relocate the sensor, but i have driven a couple of is200 in my life and none of them is as fast as this one even did a 0-60 to check how good was my but dyno and wasn't disappointed, got a time of 8.89.

 

I'm amaze by the state of the car in general plus I only paid 1,500€ for it and the only reason the previous owner sold it to me because he noticed that the car was getting slower progressively and after a couple of his friends couldn't find the problem he just gave up, and one of the mechanics disconnected the o2 from the main cats so no CEL will go on in q short time, he even said that he regretted selling it after having it since 2000 bc he thought it would be something worse like a major fault so I'm glad I ignored the high mileage of the car.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats great work you've done. I see you did a water mist clean. I don't know but is the is200 a direct injection car which suffer carbon build up on inlet valve tops? I assume the water mist clean cleared carbon very well? How did you do it? I've seen lots of YouTube videos about valve cleaning but a lot of negative views about water mist cleaning. Really glad you've posted again. Hope you are fit and well in these awful times. Take care 👍

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/7/2021 at 1:26 PM, Mr Vlad said:

Thats great work you've done. I see you did a water mist clean. I don't know but is the is200 a direct injection car which suffer carbon build up on inlet valve tops? I assume the water mist clean cleared carbon very well? How did you do it? I've seen lots of YouTube videos about valve cleaning but a lot of negative views about water mist cleaning. Really glad you've posted again. Hope you are fit and well in these awful times. Take care 👍

About the question, no the is200 is an indirect injection, it injects the fuel on top of both intake valves.

I did a very basic video showing the process and explaining all the steps to take and recommendations to get the best result, is being uploaded as we speak so ill post it here in a couple of minutes once it's ready. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/7/2021 at 1:26 PM, Mr Vlad said:

Thats great work you've done. I see you did a water mist clean. I don't know but is the is200 a direct injection car which suffer carbon build up on inlet valve tops? I assume the water mist clean cleared carbon very well? How did you do it? I've seen lots of YouTube videos about valve cleaning but a lot of negative views about water mist cleaning. Really glad you've posted again. Hope you are fit and well in these awful times. Take care 👍

 

 

Its a plane and ruff video, i uploaded almost like i taped it.

Edited by Pahino.IS200
Forgot something
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share



×
×
  • Create New...