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How do I remove fusible link in Fusebox 2 in engine compartment

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Ok I realise. You can’t just pull it out. It’s bolted in between high voltage and 12v circuits. It’s a pig of a job. You’ve got to raise the grey insert to expose the fuse legs. 

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Thanks for response,

I expected it would be. 
The model is a 2012 450 h. The problem started when ,because I’m shielding, I left it too long between charges. When I realised and eventually got the Battery recharged (I bought a new charger). Everything seemed to work ok and I’ve driven to the  postbox as a test,ok,but now I can’t open the back door even using the emergency device (behind the little oblong cover in the door).So I’m assuming(?) that it’s the pbd that’s gone. I thought it would be a simple case of replacing the 30A fuse. But I’m puzzled by the fusible link as there’s no mention in the handbook, which clearly shows fuse 9 as a 30a fuse. In the fusebox, I took out the adjacent 10 mm nut but that did not loosen the link so no idea what to try next. I’ll read your advice again to see if I can understand it better.

Thanks again for advice,

ok, I’ve read it again and when the snow has cleared I’ll try raising the grey insert.


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It would be very unusual for the fuse to blow in this situation. If you connected the charger the wrong way round (+ charger lead to - Battery post) then probably a big bang and something would indeed blow.

However, you say that it charged up alright and that you've driven it since, so I doubt very much it's anything serious.

First of all, there's a tailgate isolator switch behind the flap of the glove box; not actually in the glove box itself, but if you just open the door it'll be visible on the right-hand side. Make sure that's switched on.

If that doesn't work then you need to do some diagnostic testing. Do you hear any clicking or whirring when you press the button? It could be that the latch is getting power but not releasing.

It could even be as simple as being too cold. I know it sounds daft but two or three people have posted recently that their tailgates have problems opening when it's very cold.

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I see, you’ve not blown the main fuse. Could be a relay issue. 

I defer to Herbie who knows his Lexus onions. Definitely get a diagnostic.

I use Techstream on XP using Virtualbox. It’s good kit and immediately reaches out to 100s of sensors via several ECUs and checks circuit resistance. And saves you a packet.  

You can buy a period of use from Toyota. Many buy a Chinese knock off with MVCI cable. You may feel Lexus owes you for any endured misery and your conscience is eased as you head to eBay. 

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+1 for the relay issue.  The clue is if you operate the glovebox switch, you should hear an audible click as the relay operates.  Mine isn't making any noise and no power is reaching the rear compartment including PBD and courtesy lights.  These are all supplied from one relay supplied by that fused link.  No click=no power even if the ECU calls for it.  Mine's in Lexus tomorrow to try and get to the bottom of it, but I'm crossing my fingers it's a £40 relay blown and not the megabucks PBD ECU gone awal.  Lexus will usually offer a free 30 minute diagnostic least my dealership does.

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Thanks to Herbie, Greisingle&Paul (GSLV6),

Comments to be investigated,  not sure (not up to speed with the language) I will look into buying some self diagnostic kit (techstream, XP, virtual box are mysteries at present).I did check the glove compartment switch. As it was in correct position I didn’t operate it, but I will- & listen. 


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Well, I can report now on this topic which will cover ALL RX's  with power rear doors.

I spent an hour at Lexus and had a chat with the mechanic/service manager and there are only a small handful of reasons for a failure of the remote operated PBD, which are exactly as I thought and highlighted above.  These are:

  1. flat or disconnected Battery needs a reset for the remote power pack and ECU for the PBD as per owner's manual;
  2. button in glovebox needs pressing;
  3. Relay operated by PBD activation switch in glovebox has packed up resulting in no power to remote ECU/powerpack;
  4. 30A fuse (box type B or C,  I think) blown, needing replacement or fused buzzbar connection (later models but include my own 2014 model) blown needing replacement;
  5. power pack and/or remote ECU have packed in.

Anyone who experiences problems with the tailgate at all, it can only be for one of the posted reasons above, so check them in that order as the first two on the list are 60 second fixes.


In my case, and unfortunately for me, it was found that my rear motor/powerpack/ECU has packed in.  I hope you don't get the same issue because the cost is astronomical!  I was quoted £1,138 for the replacement of which £745 was parts only.

The power pack and ECU are actually under the roof lining which needs removing to get at them so it's quite a big job taking several hours of labour.

Perhaps this can become a sticky (or part of it can) as it should cover this not uncommon problem that many owners have reported.

I was told that it was extremely rare for a power pack or ECU failure.  This is the second "it is extremely rare" repair bill  costing the thick end of £1200 I've had with an RX which has only just covered 35K miles so not impressed.  I have taken out an extended warranty in case of any other unexpected failures.  It goes to show that even if you have a genuinely low miles example, it's a lottery making the warranty very worthwhile folks.


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