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03 IS300 cluster issues


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Hi all

I've read around the net and found some bizarre tales of cluster issues ... but in my case I previously replaced the lights with white LED cos they look much better.  After a year or so the one behind the RPM started flickering sometimes.  So I took it out and replaced it and seemed ok - but then that one started flickering.  I did have a few days driving around with no cluster which was kind of liberating and fun  😅

I figured my only option left was to try and replace the little bulb holder (assuming I could find the right one cheap somewhere, but dunno what it's part number is or anything).  However, before I could think more about that, the entire cluster stopped lighting up the other day.  Currently the emergency/security lights all work but just not the ones behind the instruments.  I read on some threads that it would relate to the 1F fuse in the drive side fusebox as that powers those lights and also the TRC/SNOW/PWR lights and sure enough those other lights don't work either.
I just found my way into the ridiculously impossible to get at drive side fuse box and checked the fuse labelled guage on the cover - it looked fine.  I took the one labelled tail out and put that in (both 10a) - guage lights still didn't work but tail lights didn't so I put them back.

But now I'm at a loss as to what to do next?  If it's not the fuse, what could it be?
Also any tips on the flickering one (is the holder likely to be a fault with connection etc?)  The only one that's gone off before is the 1 under the shifter numbers and that's too much of a pain to get to for me to try and replace it with an LED really  😕

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So I've currently dismantled the center console around the gearshift and the cluster stuff around the steeringwheel.

I've finally got to the bulb for the gearshift that started going off sometimes and swapped it for an LED though I tested the original bulb and it lights ok?

I could technically replace the ashtray light if I could see how to get to it easily in its unit.

Disturbingly I found a pile of ash inside the center console under where the ashtray goes - disgusting, and dirty in there.

Unfortunately 1 of the screws for the side of the center console seems to have fallen down into the middle somewhere so think that's a goner for now.

I also swapped the TRC button to the middle and moved the driver heated seat button to the right, as it looks better (had to pile some plastic oiff the TRC button to fit it in, though)

But all of this is is somewhat irrelevant - it is all to try and work out why my instrument lights in the cluster don't work whilst all the warning lights in there do - as in my original post.

I don't think it's the fuse as I said above - what else could it be?

I have now shorted the brown/white & green/white on the dimmer switch cable which should result in the 8v I tested on it remaining on so max brightness for the lights - still nothing, so I guess that eliminates the dimmer switch?

I am now thinking maybe when unplugging the console with those horrible clip plugs I have pulled/damaged 1 of the cables in the wiring?  I was wondering if there is any way I could test the wires with the multimeter, or any way to test the sockets on the cluster (surely there is a way to feed 9v power to the right pin to light up the instrument lights if they are in fact working?)

I found a link to all the wiring stuff for the whole car but despite finding what I think is the 2 cluster plugs/sockets, I don't know how I can test the wires with this information.  Can anyone help?
The plug wiring image is below, this is the pdf it came from http://www.2jzgarage.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Body-Electrical-BE.pdf

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  • 1 month later...

So in the end it seems the fuse was burnt out but it was the 7.5A fuse labelled PANEL on my little layout sticker - at least I believe so cos I had someone else come and fix it and he gave me a broken 7.5A one and it wasn't the starter 😛 
I also had issues with the bulbs/seating but I've mostly got it all working now.  I believe there is still one of the 2 blue bulb holders for the cluster causing an issue as 1 side or the other seems to flicker and I've swapped the holder/bulb around to try and establish the cause.
I'll have to try and lookup where I can buy a replacement one to try

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If you have literally the same issue of that selection of lights being off, then check the 7.5A fuse labelled PANEL rather than the 10A fuse labelled GAUGE which is what I had previously checked.  You'll probably find it needs replacing.
Then you're just back to issues of bad bulbs/connections which I am trying to resolve.

I haven't found anywhere I can buy the plastic "holders" you put the bulbs into which you then twist into place on the cluster or elsewhere.
If anyone has links (and links for SHORT LEDs - see below) that'd be great

 

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Direct replacement of conventional filament bulbs with LEDs is, as you have discovered, not just a case of plug and play.

The original bulbs are designed to operate at 12 Volts however LEDs generally require a voltage between 3.5-5.0 Volts so 12 Volts is far to high. LEDs are also designed to draw a maximum current (Amps) and again most require 30-100 mA so a current limiting resistor is required in addition to each LED.

Without the above being taken into consideration the LEDs will still light up and they will certain be nice and bright but they will soon burn out (clearly demonstrated from your picture above). At this point 2 things can happen they either go “open circuit” and go out or “short circuit” and go out but hopefully blow the fuse supplying them. On the latter if the fuse doesn’t blow you could be left with burnt out circuit board tracks or at worst a fire!

Regarding the integrated LED fit and twist bulb holders they are freely available an example being linked below, these are also designed for 12 Volt operation and should have the required current limiting resistor integrated.

Apologies to Jazz as I have only just come across this post otherwise I would have replied sooner.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133465813126?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1f132eb086:g:emsAAOSwrItfDsWY&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSHYXPhGXR5uguexJBeHwfgZ7EP2b61j0Uz15FYpWU64FhQJfUmoaPeD83AuuQSIQ854c8hLQDxf57Arvv39a3vbwcSx6rrVU3iGoxT9wvYOI2fKGXGcqjZdYTdD3sASFlOSfZE36xXSgKjV3RXAQFRvyUyqkLYAdjWbEJzvA3a72p2gPVtbzPvPeTpK8hK7SkDWN0M3hU42a1xgugkrXRX0JmbH8DVJPAxE1kSyyKerMwjO2oN0JiuAgWH%2BQIgi8C28jAv8KvlWruLkTmceGyBG4Yq7NwW8gx%2FP%2FDskGtSrw5mPbKgGkJ2ZUMXG8ob5C7A7VsVsp%2FueMNtbqbqyDWyJgaNJan%2Fh1SoPQ31aO5jZB5EuJvOXBlxC5le6FUvperkIkiTZzUi601l34fMdOOTI3DzISjfdQiGCcqwzAYG6vXxQLc9JolTVqxlNFaZhtZ6U8%2B%2Fq5l8RLPHXaObajRpg6SLQkIbhW7E5SSovyrIHUg50HaUdw3kKuKUVT0%2FJ3jKJRC53qN3hFAEmRFXLBH0vu3qqOkh3yY7dyCkLFRDGTFvVnuqkC71zGgqZM7ktxHNW2rib1%2FeEUI5UrfZWvgUunZLhqOb7bXLhn0ppMUnwjOCzFPjuCMz2b27Uh%2FmH%2FF7gbLZ1XvohzhnLFcXDgyVbSzOOenJQkp4MDea0FHJmVvlzGZZX5uKLrHslOCU1ySG3BBhBb83mHv2H4N%2BbtmlRMSX81NCI6yCfbSXcq%2FghUYsuSSIJ7YvH9nTN4usk%2BcSlL%2Fq%2FTrHNDVMgdU2NKj3SC0YopTysQPuqlzLpSAOdxXcCJpt0u2gGaRAmK1PQlOGLmOo0xdrn2TuWN2ECM2Vg%3D%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524

 

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I believe for LEDs the resistor stopping them blowing is what you see inside the plastic plug casings (which stops me shortening their length which I need to do for some of these sockets, as seen in the pic below.
The burned looking pic I included before was actually a normal bulb, so it's not a burnt LED which you might have thought.
I've included holder pic and video of twisty holder issue on the shifter light on my other thread now.
As for that eBay link, those look like the small round flat bulbs that go behind the heating dials and stuff?  I've not touched those and have no desire to change them

 

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  • 1 year later...

Update!

If all your lights aren't working, I believe the solution above was replacing the fuse labelled PANEL.

For lighting/bulb problems, read my update on this post

 

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