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rx450h top mount removal, air suspension


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9 hours ago, Branc said:

has anyone here removed one?

It's looking like the answer might be no. Have you tried YouTube to see it there are any tutorials?  I'm not familiar with the RX suspension but if you've got air then you wouldn't have to compress the spring at least.

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If you look on eBay a company fits a new quality bearing to air suspension strut £85 plus £10 postage, you send just the top mount, company called Orchard Engineering, I have replaced an air suspension top bearing myself but it involves grinding the metal off that holds the bearing in place and making a new large washer type of thing and welding it in place I found it not too difficult (the bearing is rolled into position during manufacture designed not to be replaced) I do not know why Lexus do not supply the top bearing separate as it is easy to swap over, the actual bearing is about £5 for a good quality one from any bearing supplier the part number is on the bearing when removed.

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  • 2 months later...

I replaced the bearing in one of the top mounts with Brian from Orchard Engineering two years ago, and it has been running fine since then.

The top mount can be removed from the strut (it has a cash cowing element to it, when Lexus suggests that it must be replaced with the whole strut assembly).

The removal procedure is not any different from other cars: remove the plastic cover, remove rubber cover, unwind the air pipe (make sure the car is supported by a stand, so that it does not drop down when you remove the air pipe, also ensure that the wheel is supported in lower position, so that it does not drop when you unwind the top mount nuts), then undo the 3 nuts holding the top mount. To remove the central nut, which holds the bearing on the strut axle, you'll need an impact driver with long bit.

Sometimes when the top mount is easy to detach from the strut axle, you can just push the strut down (it has no air pressure by that time, so you just need to overcome the internal gas resistance), and remove the top mount without removing the shock absorber itself. While removing the top mount without removing the strut, make sure you don't push the strut too low, because it can strain the wishbone rubber bushes too much with a risk of the rubber cracking (particularly for 8+ years old car).

If the top mount has ceased on the shock's axle, it is better to remove the whole strut by unwinding the stabiliser link and two 22mm bolts at the bottom.

This is a standard procedure any qualified mechanic can do having proper tools on hands.

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I came across a top mount for Toyota Avensis T23, which might be used as a temporary substitute for the RX450h top mount: see photos below comparing the original top mount with the alternative.

It appears to have the same position of bolts, the same bearing and enough space for the air hose connector. It has smaller diameter and slightly shorter bolts.

Note that installing Avensis top mount on RX would be a material change in the construction of the car, which might invalidate warranty, so it will be all at your own risk. Still, in my view it would still be safer than running on the original top mount with disintegrated bearing, until you get a proper replacement.

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  • 3 months later...
On 7/13/2021 at 10:18 PM, Branc said:

Hi

The top mount bearing is on the way out, what is the procedure to remove this?

thanks

Did you manage to change it, Brandon?

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  • 4 months later...

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  • 3 months later...

Hi my local garage said I need a new top mount suspension and I have an Rx450h with air suspension. He called Lexus and they quoted £800 just for the part as you have to buy the whole unit with the airbag and Lexus have to fit it, I don't have a quote for the fitting. My power trunk has also stopped working so I'm trying to find solutions for both these problems without laying out a fortune. Any ideas would be very welcome.

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Deborah, I'd say you might do well to find a good mobile mechanic prepared to take on removing your suspension strut and you sending it to Brian at Orchard engineering for bearing repair, then them refitting it when its back. The powered boot is more complex - may needs diagnostics or perhaps just a new fuse?   Finding a clever mobile mechanic, may save you some hassle. good luck

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Also Debs, if you havent already, you may want to check in the glove box  for the manual on off switch that controls the powered boot operation, as mentioned in another post, this can get unknowingly knocked and cause some bafflement.

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Hi TheoRX 

Yes thanks, I tried that and it's on but there has been some damp in the car on the passenger side so not sure if this has affected the electrics there. According to the manual it seems the fuse for the boot also operates other things which are still working, other people have said damp has affected their boot operation and they've tried hair dryers and some people have said their boots have just started working again. I might try the hair dryer next. I think the damp was caused by leaving the air on recirculate, I've turned that off and it's not so damp inside now.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update

I had the 2 mounts done at orchard engineering, failed test on suspension imbalance and was creaking lock to lock before, passed test and steering was much lighter and quieter since, 172000 miles on car

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9 hours ago, Branc said:

Update

I had the 2 mounts done at orchard engineering, failed test on suspension imbalance and was creaking lock to lock before, passed test and steering was much lighter and quieter since, 172000 miles on car

Brilliant news.

I am sure you are much happier!

Thank you for the update - much appreciated.

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  • 1 month later...
On 1/24/2022 at 9:31 PM, Mehiko said:

Hi, it s this hacking still ok? :))

I doubt anyone has tried it. Best keep your car on stands while posting the mounts to Orchard  Engineering and back.

Mind to support the wishbone in neutral position to avoid prolonged stress to the bushes (they will crack if you leave the car with wheels all way down for a few days).

 

 

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On 12/7/2022 at 7:16 PM, TheoRX said:

Deborah, I'd say you might do well to find a good mobile mechanic prepared to take on removing your suspension strut and you sending it to Brian at Orchard engineering for bearing repair, then them refitting it when its back. The powered boot is more complex - may needs diagnostics or perhaps just a new fuse?   Finding a clever mobile mechanic, may save you some hassle. good luck

The top mount is actually a removable part. No need to send the whole strut around. Just unscrew the top nut on the strut axle (manual always suggest to do it with special tools, but it is always done with just an impact wrench with a deep socket), and knock the mount at sides if the bearing stuck on the shock axle.

I am still confused by the fact that neither Toyota nor aftermarket suppliers sell the mount separately.

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Water in the mount bearing: I don’t know how it appeared for you, but my mounts were full of water and rust when I first opened them for the bearing repair. I suspect the water gets in when pressure-washing the wheel arches and stays there because the rubber cover does not let it dry until it gets under the bearing seal and destroys the bearing. After the repair, I drilled a fee 10mm holes in the rubber covers to allow for some ventilation.

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