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250 Idler Pulley Replacement.


BC99
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Hello.

I replaced my water pump at the beginning of the year, and at the same time i bought two SKF pulleys (SKF VKM 61025) to replace the two plain Pulleys, but they only fitted on the tensioner, fitting to the idler meant it did not turn, clearly a different offset. I figured not the end of the world and put the old one back on as figured it should be ok. Now with use it's got worse, perhaps not unsurprisingly.

I for the life of me can not find a replacement for this pulley that does not seem to be the same one i already have which does not fit. I have searched and come across mentions of replacing the bearings in the pulleys themselves, which isn't something i can do myself so not particularly keen on this in case somehow the pulley is damaged in the process.

Just to be clear, it is the one labelled below as PUL

Can anybody please help.

Many Thanks, James.

Image.jpg

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Hi thanks for that link Steve ,I am is the process of changing the coolant (after 10 years ) and while all the plastic is off I thought I would change the serpentine belt and the idler pulley ,I was not sure on part nos so your post has put me straight .once again Lexus price for a bearing they don't make in a pulley seems excessive ,I will chance eBay without a Chinese bearing !

Dave

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Right, looked again the pulley last night and noticed that the idler pulley did look to be the new one, not the tensioner pulley, but also that there was play in the pulley when wiggled, no sign of play in the tensioner pulley.

Today took the pulley off just to be sure and it was the new one, which it was, swapped it over for the time being, but the play seems to be between the bolt and the pulley. I'm going to replace the bolt and see if that improves things, might as well fit new belt too just to be sure, but hopefully will solve things.

Although just seen it has an alternator decoupler...

Thanks for the help.

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Tested the Alternator pulley by turning the pulley while blocking the air cooling fins, and there seemed to be resistance to turning in both directions, but in both directions it slipped slightly if force added.

Ordered a new pulley, which went to fit today, upon removing the dust cap of the old one there was a lot of rust and dust in there. managed to remove it using Laser tools 6750 kit, it uses a 17mm internal hex on the pulley and the shaft on the alternator uses a 10mm external hex to hold steady.

Upon fitting the new pulley it becomes clear that the new one i had whilst would go on ok it is not possible to grip the alternator shaft should it need removal in future, so i presume i have the wrong one, and whilst presumably the pulley should be good for another 100,000 miles knowing my luck it wouldn't.

The old pulley now seems to have freed itself off with the penetrating oil i used to remove it and which cleared out all the dirt and rust that had gathered under the cap. So for now i have put that back on, i'm hoping this should be ok for the time being, does seem to run smoother now so will see how it goes in the short term before fitting a correct pulley, i was concerned the alternator itself was at fault, but pretty confident it is fine.

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  • 2 months later...

@BC99 I think your question is where can you find a new tensioner idler pulley, since toyota only sells the kit including the tensioner (£300 i think) - am I right?

I got an aftermarket one from Febest - and it works fine

I think it was this one:

image.thumb.png.c27c0448cf525108fd9e7890b609ee5a.png

 

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You are correct in what i was originally asking, but i was confused about it, and thankfully that pulley is fine. Your reply may be useful to others in future though knowing it's possible to get a replacement for that rather than replace the entire tensioner.

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