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Subwoofer question


R32crew
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Hi guys…

My CT200h has the standard  crap sound fitted.

Even though I upgraded the dash & front door speakers to JBL GTO series 3 the sound is still crap.

What I wanted to know is the oem subwoofer that comes in some CT200’s are all the subs Mark Levison or are the different makes ??

If I get a oem subwoofer would it work ok with my oem headunit ??

Cheers.

 

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there is a crossover in the wiring of the car for the dash speakers

you would need to bypass this to get full range from the dash speakers

the basic headunit wont have an output for a sub so you would need to

purchase a 3rd party sub system and probably use high level input to connect

the sub to your headunit

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13 hours ago, 200h said:

there is a crossover in the wiring of the car for the dash speakers

you would need to bypass this to get full range from the dash speakers

the basic headunit wont have an output for a sub so you would need to

purchase a 3rd party sub system and probably use high level input to connect

the sub to your headunit

Hi mate 

Thanks for the reply where is this crossover wire is it a simple job or a pain lol..

So if I swapped my headunit for a ML & fitted the ML sub would I be ok for sound…

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20 minutes ago, 200h said:

here is an image from the lexus repair manual

its called a condenser

 

6 speaker audio wiring diagram.jpg

Clueless mate I haven’t a clue what that diagram is I’m not good with wiring ☹️

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First you need the line out and then have a filter that takes away all sound above the sound you want the sub to give you, then send that to the amplifier for the sub.

One thing to remember. The Subwoofer is demanding in power and if you want highest sound quality for the audio a capacitor is not a bad thing to have connected to the amp powering the sub.

Used to put a 1 farad capacitor (for very high sound levels a 2 F would be good, but overkill) as stabilizer to powering the amp so it could handle peak demand without problems.

billede.thumb.png.0b4449e57572f87307200f81ea45eac4.png

Brax is not the only but they are good.

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Wow complicated stuff why couldn’t Lexus make it a nice & simple good system.

I’ve been driving my S3 last few months over summer it has a Bose oem system just speakers no sub but it soo loud base & sound quality is awesome 

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There are three different audio system in the CT. 

Standard 6 speaker system with the amp integrated into the headunit.

10 speaker system with separate amp and sub, provided on vehicles with Nav.

13 speaker ML system with separate amp and sub.

 

If you have a standard 6 speaker system then you would need the amp, headunit, sub, sub housing and wiring to upgrade to the 10 speaker OEM system.

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On 8/8/2021 at 3:51 PM, ColinBarber said:

There are three different audio system in the CT. 

Standard 6 speaker system with the amp integrated into the headunit.

10 speaker system with separate amp and sub, provided on vehicles with Nav.

13 speaker ML system with separate amp and sub.

 

If you have a standard 6 speaker system then you would need the amp, headunit, sub, sub housing and wiring to upgrade to the 10 speaker OEM system.

Thanks mate appreciated I have to find the full set up I guess 

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6 hours ago, stormchaser said:

I,ve got the ML system and its an excellent high quality system which i think is much better than Bose.

Really wow I’d luv to hear it haven’t heard a ML system 

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Hi Umar. First off find out just what you've got in your car. Colin has posted the 3 different systems for your car. Forget the rest he posted tho. Also ignore the use of a capacitor and a frequency cut off gizmo.

Worst case scenario is you have the 6 speaker system. No problem. 

You Will need a line out to get the signal from the radio unit. This turns the output from the speaker wire to a phone out signal where you plug a phono lead from that then route it to the boot of your car to connect to the amp to power the sub. You'll also need a good wire from the Battery positive routed to the boot (not forgetting a fuse just after the Battery inline). You'll also need an earth, a good one. Then a sub speaker of your choice. Personally I thoroughly recommend the Alpine SW-815. It's only an enclosed 8" but by feck it blows 10 12 and 14" in to the weeds.

Sounds complicated and it can be if you're not that way inclined to part strip your car to route wires and cables. I suggest you find a car hifi shop and get a quote.

Some people don't rate the ML system. Unfortunately theirs must be duff. I'm on my 4th. 1st one was duff but the other 3 superb. 

Oh and in the 80's and early 90's I was a semi pro car hifi installer so I know what I'm talking about unlike others. 

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Having owned a mid range home stereo system where you can't adjust the bass, treble or midrange for many years I just feel the ML is only ok in both the my gone GS3 (slightly better in this) & current GS4, I've not heard the standard system.

For home buyers of "Curry's" own brand systems its probably amazing 😛

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2 hours ago, Initial P said:

Having owned a mid range home stereo system where you can't adjust the bass, treble or midrange for many years I just feel the ML is only ok in both the my gone GS3 (slightly better in this) & current GS4, I've not heard the standard system.

For home buyers of "Curry's" own brand systems its probably amazing 😛

You want to increase or not part of the tonal range of the music due to your personal taste is of course fine.

High resolution music is mostly recorded so it sounds natural. 24-bit lossless recording mostly sound very close to a live concert with no adjustment at all. Not as loud.

The ML in our little car need no adjustment to sound natural and perfect to us.

Do not know Curry's brand, but Quad audio with the old electrostatic speakers only lack a bit of the very low register if speakers are not placed correct in a corner to use the walls to increase the bass. If not trying to make the ML in the car as loud as in a disco, the sound in the car is close to that.

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29 minutes ago, Initial P said:

Funny enough my home system is a Quad 909, 99 Pre & B&W 602S2.

The DAB in the car works perfectly though without any breakups.

In 1970 the system was not considered middle class. Not by me or any of my friends.

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15 hours ago, Mr Vlad said:

Hi Umar. First off find out just what you've got in your car. Colin has posted the 3 different systems for your car. Forget the rest he posted tho. Also ignore the use of a capacitor and a frequency cut off gizmo.

Worst case scenario is you have the 6 speaker system. No problem. 

You Will need a line out to get the signal from the radio unit. This turns the output from the speaker wire to a phone out signal where you plug a phono lead from that then route it to the boot of your car to connect to the amp to power the sub. You'll also need a good wire from the battery positive routed to the boot (not forgetting a fuse just after the battery inline). You'll also need an earth, a good one. Then a sub speaker of your choice. Personally I thoroughly recommend the Alpine SW-815. It's only an enclosed 8" but by feck it blows 10 12 and 14" in to the weeds.

Sounds complicated and it can be if you're not that way inclined to part strip your car to route wires and cables. I suggest you find a car hifi shop and get a quote.

Some people don't rate the ML system. Unfortunately theirs must be duff. I'm on my 4th. 1st one was duff but the other 3 superb. 

Oh and in the 80's and early 90's I was a semi pro car hifi installer so I know what I'm talking about unlike others. 

Hi Mr Vlad

Thanks for the detailed information my car has the 6 speaker set up.

As you mentioned an Alpine sub & Amp etc that sounds like a good idea.

Will my oem head unit run the Alpine sub & Amp or would I need to replace the head unit aswell ?

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Hi Umar. No you won't have to change your headunit though it will have to be removed to access the speaker wires so as to connect the line out converter. The Alpine sub is compact and has its own power amp on top of the box under an easy removable cover. Like I said previously Umar find a car hifi shop and get them to do it. They'll be able to do the job in just a couple of hours so overall it'll cost a couple hundred quid Including price of the sub. Plus you'd get a guarantee. 

Wow two other members having Quad Amos. I've had my 405-2 and 44 with Keff 102c (with a dedicated subwoofer designed and made by Wilmslow Audio) for easily 35 years. Not in use for a number of years till I moved into my current property so I roughly wired it all up and shocked myself and neighbours lol, forgot just how loud and clear it was. 

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2 hours ago, Mr Vlad said:

Hi Umar. No you won't have to change your headunit though it will have to be removed to access the speaker wires so as to connect the line out converter. The Alpine sub is compact and has its own power amp on top of the box under an easy removable cover. Like I said previously Umar find a car hifi shop and get them to do it. They'll be able to do the job in just a couple of hours so overall it'll cost a couple hundred quid Including price of the sub. Plus you'd get a guarantee. 

Wow two other members having Quad Amos. I've had my 405-2 and 44 with Keff 102c (with a dedicated subwoofer designed and made by Wilmslow Audio) for easily 35 years. Not in use for a number of years till I moved into my current property so I roughly wired it all up and shocked myself and neighbours lol, forgot just how loud and clear it was. 

Good to have a pro among us.

Are you seriously using the speaker wires to get a line out signal? After the signal has been amplified by a standard (and not by the user and owner very high regarded) audio system?

Hope I am misunderstanding what you write.

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