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Seized rear calliper on bottom pin rusted on


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So today I went to attempt to remove my rear Calliper (passenger side )

top slider pin, no problem .

bottom pin is rusted on so tight it’s like it’s welded. After 2 hours of soaking and hitting with various tools it still wouldn’t budge. 
 

can any body help me please on how I can remove be this pin. 
the movement I can feel is where the thread has slight unwinded

giving the tiniest amount of play. 
 

also brake pad in that side has worn down nearly half. 
 

Do I need a complete new calliper and slider pin ??????
 

 

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Plus Gas and PB blaster ( or any other penetrating fluid) are a lot better than WD40 which is good all rounder but might not cut it sometimes.

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A few years back I bought an is250 that had badly seized calipers both rear and one front. 

This is what I did to free them. 

-Removed them from the car. 

-Left them soaking the penetrating fluid for a few days. 

-Started with the rears first.  Put them in a bench vice, one at a time, and started hammering the carrier. The first one came out after a few knocks the second one required a blow torch to heat it up. The rubber boot got burned, but it came out eventually. The penetrating fluid had only gone through a few millimetres.  

-The front one was the worst. All the above did not help. The pin broke inside the caliper. I had to drill it out, starting with the smallest drill bit working my way up.

New slide pin kits are relatively inexpensive, and they come with dust boots. 🙂 If you don't to go through all this trouble, might be easier to buy a second hand one on eBay they are usually less than £50. 

 

 

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Buy yourself a kit of front and rear sliding pins in case any will break. When I did mine the rear bottom one snapped and had to remove the brake disc to extract it. Was lucky enough to have a friend with a spare pin/bolt, but I'd say be prepared for the worst 

 

 

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24 minutes ago, zoricib said:

Buy yourself a kit of front and rear sliding pins in case any will break. When I did mine the rear bottom one snapped and had to remove the brake disc to extract it. Was lucky enough to have a friend with a spare pin/bolt, but I'd say be prepared for the worst 

 

 

Yes I done the fronts last year. 
they were rusted but managed to get them out. 
 

the rear I will order the pin bolt kit. 
 

can you reuse the calliper after the pin bolt ha snapped ? This is my worry. 
lexus said new calliper. 
Lexus brakes and discs are so way to do yourself why pay them. 
but I need this rear calliper bolt off. 
might buy some better or penetration oil as I only had wd40 and that didn’t do much 

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so i revisited this today, had another go but no chance. i have to bite the bullet and replace the caliper. can anybody tell me how to not fully bleed the brakes and just do it so i have to top up with some brake fluid as my next service in january the fluid gets changed.

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You need to clamp the flexible hose, there are specific clamps available but mole grips with the jaws padded with some cardboard will do the job, just gently clamp no need for a lot of pressure.

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19 minutes ago, steve2006 said:

You need to clamp the flexible hose, there are specific clamps available but mole grips with the jaws padded with some cardboard will do the job, just gently clamp no need for a lot of pressure.

Will I need to top up with brake fluid or need to bleed the brakes. Will it be a simple as pinch and swap ??? 
 

also is it normal for the inner brake pad to wear thinner like this ???

 

im guessing I need to buy new brake pads too 

 

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21 hours ago, Johnlex said:

Yes I done the fronts last year. 
they were rusted but managed to get them out. 
 

the rear I will order the pin bolt kit. 
 

can you reuse the calliper after the pin bolt ha snapped ? This is my worry. 
lexus said new calliper. 
Lexus brakes and discs are so way to do yourself why pay them. 
but I need this rear calliper bolt off. 
might buy some better or penetration oil as I only had wd40 and that didn’t do much 

When I did mine the bolt that snapped on the rear breaks was the one at the bottom. It comes through on the other side on the brake carrier (I think that's the part...) so I removed the brake disc and extracted it from behind. The caliper itself was fine. In hindsight I'd much prefer taking it to a shop now rather than doing it again as the pins were all siezed and could have broken at any point. But then again I'm not a very competent DIYer when it comes to cars.

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21 hours ago, steve2006 said:

You will need to first fill the calliper with brake fluid if new then bleed any air out so a master cylinder top up will be required.

The uneven pad wear will probably be due to the seized calliper pins.

Yes renew the brake pads also.

@steve2006 hey steve please can you explain further on filling up the new calliper with brake fluid please? also when i pinch the flexible hose will i need to pump the foot brake ? ive seen various people put a plastic bag over the brake fluid then put the lid back on in the engine bay. 

ive also ordered new brake pads a complete new caliper with carrier too.

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Firstly if you’re not sure on the procedure I would suggest having it fitted by a trained mechanic.

The new calliper will have no or very little fluid in it so once fitted with the brake hose reconnected you need to open the nipple and bleed the brakes. As the new calliper fills with brake fluid the air in it will be displaced by the fluid until it is completely full and then fluid will emerge from the bleed nipple. Close the nipple and top up the brake fluid in the master cylinder then bleed the brakes. Finally pump the brake pedal to bring the pads up to the disc.

This video shows the process from 9.30 but watch it all. I tend to clamp off the flexible hose to minimise fluid loss but this guy just quickly transfers the hose from the old to new calliper.

It’s not a Lexus but shows the basic principles.

 

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@steve2006 hey Steve thanks so much for the “brake “ down its very simple on my head now and what to. 
it’s an easy job and I’m very confident. How ever Steve it says I need 2 new copper washers??? Will these come with my new calliper from Lexus or do I need to buy separately?

thanks so much

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@steve2006 intend to buy mainly off eBay oat Lexus parts direct as after market stuff doesn’t play ball or you can’t get it.  Lexus are a pain for that 

I’ve got a huge service in January at Lexus 120k for the extended warranty I still have 

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I had the same a couple of years ago. Same as you, the bottom wouldn't budge. Took A LOT of hammering with a rubber mallet and WD40.. Replacement pins are on eBay for less than £20. If your calipers are this bad, you won't be able to salvage the pins. 

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23 minutes ago, H3XME said:

I had the same a couple of years ago. Same as you, the bottom wouldn't budge. Took A LOT of hammering with a rubber mallet and WD40.. Replacement pins are on eBay for less than £20. If your calipers are this bad, you won't be able to salvage the pins. 

I’m just replacing the calliper and the carrier it’s well and truly seized. I’ve also order new pins for the other side just to replace and a tube of rubber grease. Waiting for parts the. Will do all myself. 

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