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beyond the blue
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Very nice! I'm sure you'll stick with it. 

The fact that Betsy's blue coat seems to show up every micron of dirt keeps her on a regime of fortnightly washes. As my new job will mean visiting clients, I can't turn up in a dirt encrusted car so she'll be kept clean and shiny. Well, that's the plan anyway. 

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1 hour ago, PRT68 said:

Just wondering, do you chaps leave your cleaning stuff in unheated garages/sheds, or do you bring indoors for the winter. Does polish or cleaning fluids freeze?

Never had a problem with storing cleaning fluids in the garage. I suspect that the freezing points of such fluids are probably quite low.  I’ve certainly never encountered such a condition.

Even the pressure washer is fine as long as it’s properly drained after use, so that there’s no water left to freeze internally.

The garage is certainly secure enough to keep unwanted hands off my foaming nozzles.  😌

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Cold not usually a problem, though if your garage dropped below -10 then maybe some of the fluids would de-homogenise (for want of a better word), or have a slightly shortened life.  Usually time is the enemy of waxes and foams

Only thing is making sure micro-fibres etc, are dry as can be before leaving in shed (or in my case cellar).

Photos of your foaming nozzles (now that might be worth a peek)😵

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Best supplier of detailing products by far in my opinion is Clean Your Car detailing Products Ltd of Huddersfield whose online shop is legendary.   Just replenished some stock myself as a result of collecting my own new ES last week.  In my basket at the moment is  a Blo Air-RS Car Dryer which blows warm filtered air, 30 degrees warmer than the ambient temperature, with a 5.5 hp motor, variable speed function and a 600watt  heating element built in.    At  £150 though I just need a push from the side of my brain that handles pleasure to buy it.  I've moved away wherever  possible from touching the paint apart from  the actual washing of the panels and after pressure rinsing have been using a less powerful and cheaper air blower to shift the bulk of the water but it's on it's last legs hence the need to buy the Blo Air RS machine. 

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1 minute ago, SH20 said:

Best supplier of detailing products by far in my opinion is Clean Your Car Detailing Products Ltd of Huddersfield whose online shop is legendary.   Just replenished some stock myself as a result of collecting my own new ES last week.  In my basket at the moment is  a Blo Air-RS Car Dryer which blows warm filtered air, 30 degrees warmer than the ambient temperature, with a 5.5 hp motor, variable speed function and a 600watt  heating element built in.    At  £150 though I just need a push from the side of my brain that handles pleasure to buy it.  I've moved away wherever  possible from touching the paint apart from  the actual washing of the panels and after pressure rinsing have been using a less powerful and cheaper air blower to shift the bulk of the water but it's on it's last legs hence the need to buy the Blo Air RS machine. 

Oh God no. Now I’m not gonna sleep thinking about how much I need one of those. I’m also not going to be able to stop myself giving that H’field-based firm’s website a damned good look over. 
 

🙄

 

PeteTP

 

PS What colour/trim/model of ES did ya get?

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55 minutes ago, PeteTP said:

Eh, now…..forgive me beyond the blue but

a) what precisely is that an image of, and

b) what does it do?

Perplexed PeteTP

Blower drier with heat option. This is the one the guy who did my Ceramic coating uses. He gave me a demo with it and I was quite impressed. The idea being the less you touch the paintwork the longer and better the coating lasts.

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2 hours ago, SH20 said:

I've moved away wherever  possible from touching the paint apart from  the actual washing of the panels and after pressure rinsing have been using a less powerful and cheaper air blower to shift the bulk of the water but it's on it's last legs hence the need to buy the Blo Air RS machine. 

Yup haven't hand dried a car the last 4 years. Makes a huge difference even under LED worklights. Although I just drive it after the wash (quick motorway jaunt in dry clear weather) then apply lubricant/polymer based protection.

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Hi Peniole,

 

As part of my ongoing education on the finer points of cleaning’n’drying, please could you share what polymer based protection you use? Easy to work with and how often do you apply it?

TIA.

PeteTP

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If I'm feeling up to it, I use Meguiars quick spray detailer, (the lubricant you get with their clay bars) to prep the surface, making sure there's no remaining dirt after the wash is left over, followed by Meguiars 365 paint protect (lasts a couple of months longer than the next method). Although now I'm older and lazier, and they have basically combined those 2 in their waterless wash and wax (just make sure to shake the bottle frequently as you apply, be generous, and use 3 microfibers not 2 = apply/dry/buff). I Still wash (jet wash, foam and mitt), still do a quick drive, then use waterless wash and wax and I'm good for a few months of touchless jet washes with only water (preferably DI). Dirt just falls off. Once the beading is reduced and you start seeing road film remain, repeat. I've cut down my actual touch washes to 3 a year and that's with jet washing the car in winter once a week to rinse down the salt (touchless and only water, don't forget the wheel wells and undercarriage).

Application is easy and gentle, no hard rubbing required for either post wash method.

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3 hours ago, PeteTP said:

Oh God no. Now I’m not gonna sleep thinking about how much I need one of those. I’m also not going to be able to stop myself giving that H’field-based firm’s website a damned good look over. 
 

🙄

 

PeteTP

 

PS What colour/trim/model of ES did ya get?

Mesa Red and Hazel Trim

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7 hours ago, peniole said:

If I'm feeling up to it, I use meguiars quick spray detailer, (the lubricant you get with their clay bars) to prep the surface, making sure there's no remaining dirt after the wash is left over, followed by meguiars 365 paint protect (lasts a couple of months longer than the next method). Although now I'm older and lazier, and they have basically combined those 2 in their waterless wash and wax (just make sure to shake the bottle frequently as you apply, be generous, and use 3 microfibers not 2 = apply/dry/buff). I Still wash (jet wash, foam and mitt), still do a quick drive, then use waterless wash and wax and I'm good for a few months of touchless jet washes with only water (preferably DI). Dirt just falls off. Once the beading is reduced and you start seeing road film remain, repeat. I've cut down my actual touch washes to 3 a year and that's with jet washing the car in winter once a week to rinse down the salt (touchless and only water, don't forget the wheel wells and undercarriage).

Application is easy and gentle, no hard rubbing required for either post wash method.

Thanks a million Peniole for sharing what seems to be methodology that is right up my street i.e. min elbow grease for max affect. I’m gonna review my ancient procedure and instead magpie yours if I may, in whole or in part.

Being a bit too rural for a post wash drive on clean roads will mean me having to think of a cunning alternative. But that’s just fine.

Your generosity of knowledge and wisdom is immensely appreciated, thank you. Just need the ambient temperature to get respectfully above freezing and it will “Showtime”.

Result? Happiness of course.

PeteTP

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Hmmm, am I missing something (highly likely as I’m not called The Village Idiot for nothing) as I cannot find the “365 paint protect”. Please could a smarter man than me steer me in the right direction?

 

MTIA.

 

PeteTP

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I'm favoring the last one on that list recently, it's easier and not far off the 365 for longevity which can be a faff (make sure to apply liberally and technically requires 24h to cure). So f you don't have a garage and can't leave the car for the full 24h I'd go with the waterless one step process. Another advantage of the waterless is that you can use it on windows and it behaves like rainX.

Last thing to mention the 365 has excellent sheeting action while the waterless beads more. The 365 might suit you more if you don't let it completely strip, then next wash might be easier to dry as the water would mostly sheet off, so not much left to dry. Just make sure to use a shampoo that claims not to strip wax, and stay away from the harsh jet wash shampoos.

See

 

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29 minutes ago, peniole said:

I'm favoring the last one on that list recently, it's easier and not far off the 365 for longevity which can be a faff (make sure to apply liberally and technically requires 24h to cure). So f you don't have a garage and can't leave the car for the full 24h I'd go with the waterless one step process. Another advantage of the waterless is that you can use it on windows and it behaves like rainX.

Last thing to mention the 365 has excellent sheeting action while the waterless beads more. The 365 might suit you more if you don't let it completely strip, then next wash might be easier to dry as the water would mostly sheet off, so not much left to dry. Just make sure to use a shampoo that claims not to strip wax, and stay away from the harsh jet wash shampoos.

See

 

Outstanding help for this true amateur. Much appreciated and thanks to all contributors. Bank balance about to go down.

 

PeteTP

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On 1/14/2022 at 10:09 AM, Mincey said:

Very nice! I'm sure you'll stick with it. 

The fact that Betsy's blue coat seems to show up every micron of dirt keeps her on a regime of fortnightly washes. As my new job will mean visiting clients, I can't turn up in a dirt encrusted car so she'll be kept clean and shiny. Well, that's the plan anyway. 

 

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I agree fully with your comments on your blue colour.   The F pace Azure is a truly stunning colour. I wish I could have had that option my ES.  I went for Deep Blue.  Still a great colour, but very unforgiving on showing the dirt and swirls in the wrong light.

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