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Trust Induction Kit


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Ok Guys, here are some pics of my Trust Induction Kit, featuring my new mechanic........

Monkey Magic

My Mechanic has a big long sucking thing....

Another pic....

And another Pic.....

Also, I have another idea, my mechanic Mr Monkey reckons if I were to bore a hole through the inner wing and insert some round ducting which is routed via the front vent next to the fog lights, this will most definately improve air flow considerably. This, combined with the IS300 air scoop should make some serious improvements especially at high speeds as the air flow would swirl in the airea of the filter, keeping the air flow as cool as possible........

here is a pic of what I mean

Heres the idea....

Any suggestions would be most welcome chaps. :driving:

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Looks nice and bling :D

If it's of any help/interest, the only suggestion I would make would be to lag the metal pipe with heat insulation because that pipe will get very hot and will lose you power.

Even our carbon fibre pipe get hot so we fit heat reflective material on it.

Personally I don't like the is300 air scoop idea unless it is adapted to provide a proper cold air box, which will be difficult to do nicely.

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Ive just ordered a proper induction tube heat shield. Should be here next week. Will post pics and some remarks when Ive tested it....

Looking good Pete. It looks the same as mine :)

I will be interested in the heat shield you can get for it. B)

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Is it a good idea to fit the air inlet temp sensor directly into the airflow?

Think it should be mor passive? Do you know what I mean?

I thought that, but the manufacturers have obviously put some thought into it and cam up with a more direct reading. Perhaps its more accurate.....

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Im getting the heat shield from Demon Tweeks. Its a proper "Sock" designed for induction tubes, and the nice bit is, it laces up like a doc martin with nice blue laces !!

It will do the business, and co-ordinate well !! B)

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Im getting the heat shield from Demon Tweeks. Its a proper "Sock" designed for induction tubes, and the nice bit is, it laces up like a doc martin with nice blue laces !!

It will do the business, and co-ordinate well !! B)

Does it fit the IS200, or it need Mods to get it fit Pete?

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Im getting the heat shield from Demon Tweeks.  Its a proper "Sock" designed for induction tubes, and the nice bit is, it laces up like a doc martin with nice blue laces !!

It will do the business, and co-ordinate well !! B)

Does it fit the IS200, or it need Mods to get it fit Pete?

I think the sock is a standard length so I will probably have to cut it to length, we shall see. To answer an earlier question; The hole for the sensor is already drilled, you just remove your rubber grommet from the standard airbox and place into the pre-drilled hole.

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looking good. i am in on the group buy on the IS300 air pipe and im gonna be trying to make a template for a small heat sheilded box that will be easy to make. wanna keep it simple and be easly fitted and removed.

Anyone fancy grouping up and spending a day making one? then once we have one right we can make a few of them?

Best thing is they will cost bugger all if we make em :o

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Im getting the heat shield from Demon Tweeks. Its a proper "Sock" designed for induction tubes, and the nice bit is, it laces up like a doc martin with nice blue laces !!

It will do the business, and co-ordinate well !! B)

Any pictures of the "sock" Pete ?

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looking good. i am in on the group buy on the IS300 air pipe and im gonna be trying to make a template for a small heat sheilded box that will be easy to make. wanna keep it simple and be easly fitted and removed.

Anyone fancy grouping up and spending a day making one? then once we have one right we can make a few of them?

Best thing is they will cost bugger all if we make em :o

Ive got some ideas for a cold air box. Ive started making templates from cardboard, but am waiting now for the IS300 air intake to see if I can accommodate that into the equation....

What I plan to do is as I explained, cut a hole into the bottom of the inner wing and take some flexible ducting from the inlet next to the fog light. With the IS300 air intake fitted aswell, if this corner can be boxed in nicely, then this should improve things a little. Its a bit of a fiddly job to do, but with a little time and effort, it could pay dividends.

Im also talking a bloke who runs a sheet metal business, he reckons he might be able to make the induction tube, mandrel bent for a fraction of the cost. we shall see........

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Ive got some ideas for a cold air box.  Ive started making templates from cardboard, but am waiting now for the IS300 air intake to see if I can accommodate that into the equation....

What I plan to do is as I explained, cut a hole into the bottom of the inner wing and take some flexible ducting from the inlet next to the fog light.  With the IS300 air intake fitted aswell, if this corner can be boxed in nicely, then this should improve things a little.  Its a bit of a fiddly job to do, but with a little time and effort, it could pay dividends. 

just as i have done on the Race car............and very effective.

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so there are no structural implications by drilling a 100mm diameter hole in there then???? will be my next route if i cant get enuf cold air into the filter.

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nope there are no implications...........that "soft" metal work isnt structural.

TDI have cut a hole there on the Monster aswell

:D this is what i did as well :whistling: and it seem's alot better now, but i still want to fit the scoop as well, so its got lots of nice cool air geting to the filter, when i get my camera back i will post some pic,s of it :whistling:

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There is one implication. We must consider the fact that air box will be sealed right? I would personally leave a vent of somesort somewhere.

The reason for this is that, we must consider the internal dimensions of the cold air box, and its volumetric capacity. We must also consider the demand for air when the car is experiencing rather alot of thrape (as mine does regularly).

The demand for air will empty the air box within a millisecond and we must ensure that the ducting is of sufficient diameter and as unrestrictive as possible to enable that air box to be full all the time. Remember that without the airbox in place, the filter at the end of the induction tube has alot of area to draw air from. I would imagine that the spare space in that corner of the engine bay equates to about half a cubic meter with several areas where air can enter. An air box will be a fraction of this, with only one, possibly two intakes with a low internal diameter.

If the car is demanding more air than what is FREELY available, then it will create a partial vacuum inside the box and basically the intake ducting will become a vacuum cleaner and have to suck the air in from outside, which is making the engine work harder for its air, therefore POWER LOSS. If I can remember my physics, isnt this called volumetric efficiency, or something like that.. :duh:

I would personally place a vent toward the front of the air box, just to maximise air flow at high demand.

This is only some of my theory folks, dont take it as gospel. I wonder if Mark at TDi would agree/disagree with any of my theories, or anyone else come to think of it.

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