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Prolex Big Brake Kit


Fargo
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if you have 1.5 mm clearence, nothing neds shaving off anywhere.

would have thought that you would have PROLEX-UK on them dave? :duh:

Yup,

Stickers were given to the YOUNG Mr Fargo when he collected them :whistling:

Seems he's mislaid them :yawn:

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damn you, i convinced myself i didnt need to buy these! no fair no fair!

*** they look good. realy want some. so many things so little time!

its defintaly high on the wanted list now dave!

Will be interesting to see how the power works with the chassis.

also remembering that your running coilovers and that the dynamics of the braking on a standard setup would be a little different.

but still, uber cool!

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Personally i would remove the backing plate all together, that is what is recomended on the Stoptech set up i have, it alows more cooler air to surround the disc, for mine the same method was used. i.e tin snips, but you cut towards the hub, then remove, i think it was 3 screws, and then take the whole plate away...........

i had no problems with my car afterwards

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it is a stone guard.........per se, also formed in such a way as to direct air to the disc ....

as ive said, the stoptech kit recomends the removal, for the very reason to allow air to get to the disc.....and the fact its in the way.

mine have been removed for everrrrrrrrr, with no problems what so ever

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Ok been 5 days now,, and i can report no problems,, no ratttles no squeals,,

Braking feels firmer and more positive,

havnt had an oppurtunity to warm the discs up ;) nor have i had a small cat run out in front of me to test the stopping power.. but if anyone has a small cat.....

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Ok been 5 days now,, and i can report no problems,, no ratttles no squeals,,

Braking feels firmer and more positive,

havnt had an oppurtunity to warm the discs up ;) nor have i had a small cat run out in front of me to test the stopping power.. but if anyone has a small cat.....

:lol::lol:

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blimey.... had loads of greef....

firstly I think I either lost the extension bolt for the sandwich plate, which after one phonecall to Prolex I managed to get a replacemnt on the same day... woooahhh. excellent service.

I decided to custom the install so it looks darn good. show photos of modified brackets shortly, also decided to wrap the braded lines etc, and clamp down, also utilised all existing holes available ont he front x member etc to avoid any extra holes being drilled into the car,

after all this, the kit seems to work pretty well, looks excellent and well installed if i can say so myself.

no oil leaks, no rattles, no squeeks, and just .. wonderfull after a tough days work on my mates ramp who Fargo knows of too.. great guys in burnt Oak I must say.

just waiting to save up a little extra now for 2 next mods that I must have from Mr Prolex himself.

1 being the manifold system and the other... well thats a secret he does'nt even know about.

:driving:

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Paul do u know the correct bedding procedure for the brakes, if not here it is..............

After completeing installation, make a series of 10 stops from 60 to 5-10 MPH. At the end of each stop, immediately accelerate to 60 again for the next stop. Run all stops in one cycle.

During the 60 to 5-10 MPH series of stops, the exact speed is not critical. Accelerate to appoximately 60 and begin the braking cycle. As you approach 5-10 MPH, it is not necessary to watch the speedometer, keep your eyes on the road and approximate your speed at the end of each cycle.

DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP, AS YOU WILL IMPRINT PAD MATERIAL ONTO

THE ROTOR, CAUSING A VIBRATION.

There are several indicators to look for while breaking in the system:

On the 8th or 9th stop, there should be a distinct smell from the brakes. Smoke may be evident after several stops as well.

Also on the 8th or 9th stop, some friction materials will experience “green fade”. This is a slight fading of the brakes. The fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have cooled.

After the break-in cycle is finished, there will be a blue tint color on the rotor with a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint indicates the rotor has reached the proper break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is normal and good!

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yes mat i did,, i took them straight from the stopteck instructions,,

the only trouble i had was actually slowing donw to 10mph as i was on the A406,, so instead of 10 runs of 60 to 10mph, ,i did 20 runs of 60 to 30mph..

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